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Fingers crossed Gords.Did you get a decent price on the bits ?
Not too bad then. And at least you have a bit of come back if there is a big problem with them.
overzealous workshop monkey with an air line
especially if its been done by an overzealous workshop monkey with an air line
Managed to get the new diff on and bolted before the rain started - but does anyone know what torque the nuts should be tightened to? (diff to axle)
Quote from: "gords"Managed to get the new diff on and bolted before the rain started - but does anyone know what torque the nuts should be tightened to? (diff to axle)TIGHT for every thing & personally wouldnt bother loctiting the bolts that hold the shafts ic cos they are tyhem more likely to sheer when u remove them the next time
does anyone know what torque the nuts should be tightened to? (diff to axle)
Quote from: "gords"does anyone know what torque the nuts should be tightened to? (diff to axle)36 - 46 Nm or26 - 34 ft.lbs
Quote from: "ChrisW70" especially if its been done by an overzealous workshop monkey with an air lineBit of a myth anyway that one, you can get much more torque with a normal ratchet than you ever will with an impact wrench. (below 3/4 inch drive)
Cavalier hub-nuts spring to mind.
Never mind the hub nuts - I broke a torque wrench trying to shift the WHEEL NUTS on a Cavalier a few years ago!
for diffs n shafts,stuff like that,use the air gun on No2 which is TIGHT (bout 100+nm) :lol:
I don't have air tools, but I do have a torque wrench. I must admit - I'm a tad scared of snapping off a stud 8-[ Is it best to circulate around the nuts to build up the tightness gradually? Or is there a particular pattern to follow?