Urgent Diagnosis help needed

[gords]

Fingers crossed Gords.

Did you get a decent price on the bits ?

Well, I think so ... £90 for the diff and £40 each for the half shafts. The donor had done 63K miles apparently :)

[muddyweb]

Not too bad then.  And at least you have a bit of come back if there is a big problem with them.

[gords]

Not too bad then.  And at least you have a bit of come back if there is a big problem with them.

They give a 90 day guarantee, which seems pretty good for a breaker!

Got them from CWS 4x4

[ChrisW]

Check your bolts for the halfshaft to hub are in good nick - have a look at the threads and compare them against a known good thread in case they have stretched slightly - they have a tendency to shear off in the hub after being on and off a few times, especially if its been done by an overzealous workshop monkey with an air line  :oops:  

[Xtremeteam]

overzealous workshop monkey with an air line

dont start that in here cos that gets on my goat & i may say somethin that ill regret,ive managed to snap the bolts of with a 1/2 inch ratchet,

[karloss]

especially if its been done by an overzealous workshop monkey with an air line

Bit of a myth anyway that one, you can get much more torque with a normal ratchet than you ever will with an impact wrench. (below 3/4 inch drive)

[ChrisW]

ahem.... I was referring to myself there  :oops:    :lol:

[Dr Neil]

what about Guy with his wheel bearings and rear diff level bung :lol:  :lol:

[Dr Neil]

that's what you call heavy handed!!!!!

[Wanderer]

Diff bung.
Mega warning. It's a strip down job if you wind it in too far :)

Ed

[gords]

Managed to get the new diff on and bolted before the rain started - but does anyone know what torque the nuts should be tightened to? (diff to axle)

[Xtremeteam]

Managed to get the new diff on and bolted before the rain started - but does anyone know what torque the nuts should be tightened to? (diff to axle)

TIGHT for every thing & personally wouldnt bother loctiting the bolts that hold the shafts ic cos they are tyhem more likely to sheer when u remove them the next time

[gords]

Managed to get the new diff on and bolted before the rain started - but does anyone know what torque the nuts should be tightened to? (diff to axle)

TIGHT for every thing & personally wouldnt bother loctiting the bolts that hold the shafts ic cos they are tyhem more likely to sheer when u remove them the next time

Ah, but what's TIGHT? :-k  Is your TIGHT the same as my TIGHT?

[seph234]

not my tight i am heavy handed and nearl always shear strip the thread :(biglaugh):

[Paul]

does anyone know what torque the nuts should be tightened to? (diff to axle)

36 - 46 Nm

or

26 - 34 ft.lbs

[Xtremeteam]

for everything 19mm upwards i have a 2 foot long 1/2inch ratchet & for everything under that i have a 3/8's  long ratchet & for diffs n shafts,stuff like that,use the air gun on No2 which is TIGHT (bout 100+nm) :lol:

[gords]

does anyone know what torque the nuts should be tightened to? (diff to axle)

36 - 46 Nm

or

26 - 34 ft.lbs

Bloomin heck - what a guess :shock:  I did 42 Nm :)

[Range Rover Blues]

especially if its been done by an overzealous workshop monkey with an air line

Bit of a myth anyway that one, you can get much more torque with a normal ratchet than you ever will with an impact wrench. (below 3/4 inch drive)

Do you think so :?

[Xtremeteam]

i have to kinda agree with karloss

[Range Rover Blues]

My experience has always been the opposite, without a 3/4 inch socket set at least.
Cavalier hub-nuts spring to mind.

[Spooky]

Cavalier hub-nuts spring to mind.

Never mind the hub nuts - I broke a torque wrench trying to shift the WHEEL NUTS on a Cavalier a few years ago! :shock:

Must have been King Kong on the air line at that particular tyre garage ...

[Xtremeteam]

Never mind the hub nuts - I broke a torque wrench trying to shift the WHEEL NUTS on a Cavalier a few years ago!

no wonder u broke it!!! its not designed for cracking nuts n bolts away[/quote]

[Xtremeteam]

on the air gun topic in a workshop i poped into for 2 days cash work they had a young lad bout 15 takin the wheel of a 7 1/2 tonner using a 3/4 air gun,thing was the gun the mechanic watching him had given him had the habit of catching so when the lad pulled the trigger,it did 4 blows ,didnt shift the nut & promptly caught its internals & flipped him over & across the floor,never laughed so much in my life   :lol:  :lol:

[gords]

I got it all back together today - took it for a test drive (8 miles or so) and all seemed fine ... much less clonk when starting off, which is a welcome improvement!

But ...... got home, parked up, looked underneath and OMG - diff oil almost pouring out (OK, it was dripping, but dripping pretty fast!)

The diff casing is covered with oil, as is the surrounding body (underneath), but the propshaft is clear and the diff seal (at the propshaft) area seems OK, although it's difficult to tell.

I will check all the nuts tomorrow for tightness - and hope that I don't have to 'kin start again

Or maybe I'll just take the .... thing to the garage

[gords]

for diffs n shafts,stuff like that,use the air gun on No2 which is TIGHT (bout 100+nm) :lol:

100Nm - really? :shock:  That's on the nuts/studs that fix the diff housing onto the axle? :?

[Xtremeteam]

yeh,i dunno exactly what my guns at at no 2 but on 4 its 400nm+,when im doin a diff change at an event i use a battery impact gun which goes to 100nm

[gords]

Is it worth tightening the bolts to a higher torque, considering that I used instant gasket type stuff (supplied by Land Rover spares)? Does it "go off" to a hard state?

I suppose it's worth a try first...

[Xtremeteam]

the gasket will go off but will be rubbery so its flexible,if you dnt have acces to air tools id just do them up tight with an 1/2inch drive ratchet same with the halfshaft bolts

[gords]

I don't have air tools, but I do have a torque wrench. I must admit - I'm a tad scared of snapping off a stud 8-[

Is it best to circulate around the nuts to build up the tightness gradually? Or is there a particular pattern to follow?

[gords]

I don't have air tools, but I do have a torque wrench. I must admit - I'm a tad scared of snapping off a stud 8-[

Is it best to circulate around the nuts to build up the tightness gradually? Or is there a particular pattern to follow?

Anyone know? :?