Vehicle & Technical > Range Rover

oil pump???

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Greybeard:
Also forgot to mention, if you are running on LPG when you have the vehicle tested, you can take your cats off. :-)

DAVE39V8:
:D  think i gonna give it a change of oil back to 20/50 flushing it out first..getting cat replaced 2mrw..mine is on lpg but it got a problem at mo(another one to the list lol). :lol:

Range Rover Blues:
Cheap 20/50 can cause problems, firstly it doesn't hold it's viscosity, not even for 3000 miles, also it can cause problems with the hydraulic tappets, something I wasn't awaye of myself untill recently.  I use the Lucas stuff from E-Bay, it's £25 for 9 1/2 litres but contains a decent oil stabiliser too.

BTW, the rev counter/alternator thing, check the belt isn't slipping on both the alternator and PAS pump.

drmike:
Surely the oil light coming on when it stumbles is just saying there's not enough pressure while the engine isn't running right. Not a cause but a symptom?

I'd be looking at the HT side to start with (but that's because I'm not familiar with EFI problems). People always ask is it hot wire or flapper and you could do worse than search the forum for references to those entries.

The oil can affect the tappets both the amount, the viscocity (my money on Morris 20/50) and the flow (which is the pump). I can't see the oil causing it to cut out ot falter. Run rough yes but falter like you've described I would think is unlikley.

The HT can do this though. Check the leads are OK and nothing was shaken loose while off road maybe?

Mike

Greybeard:

--- Quote from: "Range Rover Blues" ---Cheap 20/50 can cause problems, firstly it doesn't hold it's viscosity, not even for 3000 miles, also it can cause problems with the hydraulic tappets, something I wasn't awaye of myself untill recently.  I use the Lucas stuff from E-Bay, it's £25 for 9 1/2 litres but contains a decent oil stabiliser too.

.
--- End quote ---



Surely ( i know, dont call me surely ) if these cheap oils had the problems you describe, then they would have law suits going from one or two people.
Used to deal with an oil test facility at BP that took brand new engines and ran them for several hundred hours simulation on a test bed, then stripped them to see what wear had occurred. They were actually altering the blend before each test to see which gave best results. The engineer actually told me that even the cheapest oil was good enough for general running on most engines, but he would recommend a high quality oil for high performance / racing engines.  

Take from that what you will, my friend runs his tuned V12 Jaguar on Total Synthetic at £25 per litre and it takes 17 litres. Ouch. Same oil used in the racing V12's and this car only covers about a 1000 miles a year but gets a full service at the start of the year before it turns a wheel. If only we all had that kind of money or the wife to let us spend it :-)

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