Vehicle & Technical > Range Rover

oil pump???

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DAVE39V8:
mileage is about 160,000..not sure if original cam...off the road at mo due to alternator housing broken at bottom rear mounting..must of been due to the bearings..also killed my fan belt..ripped it to shreads :cry:  the running lumpy hadn't done it for afew days but did notice oil light flicker and come on..went out when revved.. :?

MuddyMike:
I asked about the cam because depending on how reg the oil changes have been they only last about 60,000 in a Rover V8, and a worn cam causes all sorts of bad running problems. No easy way to tell without having the cam out. Its not a big or expensive job and whilst doing it the oil pump should be replaced as well.

Mike

Range Rover Blues:

--- Quote from: "Greybeard" ---I have built a few useful engines myself, car and bike and would never suggest using anything but " Proper Oil " in an emgine like that, but as i said earlier in the post, i am referring to the older engine such as the Rover V8 that when designed, would have been using the technology of the time oil wise. This would be of a similar quality to the cheaper oil i mentioned. .
--- End quote ---


Don't confuse the technology of 80's oils with the cheap tat available today.

Imagine your engine was built to run on bitter.  Now all you can buy is Lager, buying cheap lager won't make it bitter.

It's got a lot to do with friction modifiers added to the oil, more modern engines require a different kind of protection due to the thinner oils and the higher temps/speeds they run at.

Greybeard:

--- Quote from: "Range Rover Blues" ---
--- Quote from: "Greybeard" --- i said earlier in the post, i am referring to the older engine such as the Rover V8 that when designed, would have been using the technology of the time oil wise. This would be of a similar quality to the cheaper oil i mentioned. .
--- End quote ---

Don't confuse the technology of 80's oils with the cheap tat available today.
,
--- End quote ---





The engines i have referred to in a previous post were designed in the 50's not the 80's. Oil technology wasnt long past straight grade oil.

At the end of the day, i have my choice you have yours. I know when i would use this cheap oil and when not. If i was entering a competition or the possibility of hard use, then i would use probably Valvoline. For normal running the cheap stuff. My choice, my engine. Merely a suggestion not a point scoring issue and maybe one that could save money, if users wished to do so.

Range Rover Blues:
Look I'm not for getting into an arguament here, you use whatever oil you choose, your choice.  But when a fellow member asks for advice that's a different matter.  My DEGREE is in mechanical engineering and automotive design, I was sponsored by and worked for Ford Motor Company as a develoment engineer.  More recently I was techical adviser to the SEOC.  I know a thing or two about engines and I know a thing or two about oils.

I DON'T BUY CHEAP TAT, because I know it's cheap tat.  I buy a branded 20/w50 from a reputable company at a competitive price, then as you suggest I change it regularly, as soon as it's gone brown in fact as mileage is very subjective and when you off-road a lot it's engine hours, not miles that count.

That's my advice, end of.

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