Vehicle & Technical > Range Rover
oil pump???
Sooty:
Don't know if this is any help but on my 3.5 carbed Discovery 1990 the oil pressure switch also triggers a relay in the near side foot well that cuts out the ignition when the oil pressure gets low (the ignition switch bypasses it to allow it to start with no pressure).
I assume this is to prevent the engine from being run with no oil pressure.
I am not sure if this is fitted to the Range Rover of the same vintage but if it is then a momentary drop in pressure may well cause it to miss fire.
This could and I emphasize the work could be all down to a faulty pressure switch, replace it, they are not expensive.
DAVE39V8:
i had heard of a safety device like that...the light is coming on more regular but goes out when revs increased alittle..will change oil pressure switch..changed cat today alternator next..anyone got one lol...yle10100 100amp... :?: :) :) :)
Range Rover Blues:
--- Quote from: "Greybeard" ---
--- Quote from: "Range Rover Blues" ---Cheap 20/50 can cause problems, firstly it doesn't hold it's viscosity, not even for 3000 miles, also it can cause problems with the hydraulic tappets, something I wasn't awaye of myself untill recently. I use the Lucas stuff from E-Bay, it's £25 for 9 1/2 litres but contains a decent oil stabiliser too.
.
--- End quote ---
Surely ( i know, dont call me surely ) if these cheap oils had the problems you describe, then they would have law suits going from one or two people.
Used to deal with an oil test facility at BP that took brand new engines and ran them for several hundred hours simulation on a test bed, then stripped them to see what wear had occurred. They were actually altering the blend before each test to see which gave best results. The engineer actually told me that even the cheapest oil was good enough for general running on most engines, but he would recommend a high quality oil for high performance / racing engines.
Take from that what you will, my friend runs his tuned V12 Jaguar on Total Synthetic at £25 per litre and it takes 17 litres. Ouch. Same oil used in the racing V12's and this car only covers about a 1000 miles a year but gets a full service at the start of the year before it turns a wheel. If only we all had that kind of money or the wife to let us spend it :-)
--- End quote ---
Knowing how much it's going to cost trying to get £14,000 back for our crappy caravan I don't think many people would bother suing an oil company for a the chance of a £500 pay out, besides, how can you prove just when the damage was done?
Oil is horses for courses, mate used to work for a large MG specialist, had a guy came in with an MGB but also had a XJ220. Raved about the fully synthetic oil,how marvelous, going to run the MG on it when it's finished.
Finished it soon was, new engine within 3 months.
Old engines (even when rebuilt) like it slow and thick. Once an engine is warm it would run on custard as a lubricant, it's cold starts that show the quality in that respect. the problem Eyore put me wise to was that cheapo oils froth in the hydraulic lifters, which is why I like the Lucas oil with the stabiliser in it.
P.S. I kow a little bit about engine testing too :wink:
Greybeard:
I have built a few useful engines myself, car and bike and would never suggest using anything but " Proper Oil " in an emgine like that, but as i said earlier in the post, i am referring to the older engine such as the Rover V8 that when designed, would have been using the technology of the time oil wise. This would be of a similar quality to the cheaper oil i mentioned. I am not trying to preach to the converted but merely offering a suggestion that fellow LR owners of older machinery may be interested in changing oil at £5 a time and not £25 a time as long as they change it a little more often.
We all have our views on what works and what doesnt, one mans meat and all that, up to the individual to make that choice, be it informed or otherwise.
MuddyMike:
Your engine does have a low oil pressure cut out, so that could be causing the bad running. My advise is, add a quart of ATF to the oil and run gently for about half an hour. This will give a good flush. Change oil and filter whilst still hot. Use a decent 20/50 like Duckhams. If the problem persists you need an oil pump re-con, not that big a job but can get expensive if the front cover is badly worn.
Going back to the bad running and LPG problems. How many miles has the engine done on the current camshaft?
Mike
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version