Vehicle & Technical > Discovery

Discovery suspension lift

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Budgie:
Alan,
You can fit the lift without the radius arm & propshafts. You will notice that the steering wanders, follows the lines in the road and the self centering doesn't work as well as it did.
If you use the caster correction radius arms then this lowers the flange on the front diff and increases the angle on the U/J at the transfer box end of the propshaft, causing the pulsing the RRB is talking about. The Carden jointed prop will sort this out, at a price!

You could go for +1" lift springs with standard size gas shocks and use -2" shock mounts on the rear and -2" shock turrets on the front to give you the extra articulation you're looking for. You still need the brake lines but not the radius arms and propshaft.  :wink:

Wanderer:
Every one I've driven with a 2" lift had vague steering due to the camber angle being changed.
AIUI the camber is supposed to be between 2 and 4 degree positive (tolerance)

The camber gets to be a problem as it goes negative.

A 2" lift will normally be about -3 degree.

So if with tolerance it starts at 4 degrees then you'll end up with 1 degree positive.
If it starts at 2 degrees positive then you'll go to 1 degree negative which then has a very adverse effect on the steering.
The steering will sometimes not self centre and it will be very vague with you always having to correct it (especially when towing)

So to correct that you fit castor correcting arms or bushes (bushes not an option in my opinion)

Without the castor correction there may be slight rumble on the prop (may be) With the castor correction the diff is rotated back to it's normalish position but the angle between the diff and the t box has the Uj at the diff end working in virtually a straight line.
The Uj at the T box end is working at more of an angle and it is NOT sharing the load with the diff UJ. So it works harder and will begin to oscillate.
I can't recall the technical term off hand.
It then causes premature wear of the UJ, the transfer box front output seal and the transfer box front output bearing and may do damage further up the transmission.

Those are my understandings. So it doesn't effect every lift in exactly the same way.

At the moment I have had to replace the castor correcting arms with a standard set until I can sort the oscillation out with a TD5 prop and flange as it was doing a fair amount of damage to the t box seals taking them out within 100 miles each time.

When you fit the castor correcting arms the vehicle is a dream to drive as opposed to (showing my age now) feeling like you're driving an old commer camper.

HTH

Ed

Wanderer:
Looks like we tryped at the same time Budgie.. :)

Ed

barmiebrumie:

--- Quote from: "Eeyore" ---Can't add too much to what has already been said.

Key things - you'll need to camber correct your steering otherwise it'll all feel a little odd.
You'll need a different front propshaft (a double cardon type from the TD5 Disco is the best bet. Not wishing to disagree with people but a wide yolk front prop only allows greater flex in the UJ - it doesn't overcome the wear problems associated with that flex.

The above will add at least another 300squid to the bill  :shock: .

Nowts cheap in this world  :(

cheers
 8)

Hi, can you tell me if the td5 prop's fit straight onto a 1976 rangie? as i have a lift kit on it & front prop is at a very tight angle, was thinking about these double yoke's but they seem very expensive, as could buy second hand td5's.

thanks in advance  BB.
Eeyore
--- End quote ---

Eeyore:
IIRC the TD5 prop won't fit - the output flange PCD is different.

An adpator can be readily made or bought for a few sheckles. When the old fourms are available again a detail drawing of an adaptor has been posted (apologies to the poster but I can't remember who it was!).

My choice would be to keep the exisiting output flange (I doubt the TD5 output flange will fit, anyway).
, fit an adaptor and run with a shortened, custom prop. That way if you destroy the new one, your existing Rangie prop can be fitted by removing the spacer (instead of having to swap flanges).

As you're only in Brumagen, try giving Dave Mac Propshafts (in Coventry) a call - 024 7668 3239. Propshaft builder to the stars!

1976? Will that be running that bizarre monoblock gearbox and transfer box with the air operated diff?

cheers
 8)
Eeyore

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