AuthorTopic: Heat blueing on CV joint  (Read 5704 times)

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Offline Garth

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Heat blueing on CV joint
« on: April 22, 2005, 23:14:47 »
Stripped O/S hub today right back to axle. Cleaned up CV joint and there is signs of heat around the casing where the balls locate.  When I got Whinne both swivel seals were shot and leaking badly and the previous owner had got new seals but not fitted them.  
I fitted new seals the easy way (by cutting and fitting with the join at the top) and re filled with "one shot" grease.  The hubs till then had had oil in them. This worked on the N/S but not the O/S hence the strip down.

The balls and housing look OK no signs of wear.  How do I check if OK i.e play, tight spots etc. Do I check dry or should I lube up with oil when checking.
"WINNE"
1991 VOUGE SE A WITH LPG
LOOKS GOOD (BUT LOOKS CAN BE DECEIVING)
"TIGGER"
1995 SUZUKI VITARA
1" LIFT
225/75X15 AT'S

Offline Xtremeteam

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Heat blueing on CV joint
« Reply #1 on: April 23, 2005, 19:30:53 »
not wanting to be a kill joy but since that article was published with the tip bout the cut n fit on the seals,theres been 1 booked in most weeks to have it repaired as it leaks  :lol:  :lol:
Mike
I can Drive.. You can criticize..
I too can criticize like you.. but can you Drive like me??


Offline hobbit

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Heat blueing on CV joint
« Reply #2 on: April 23, 2005, 23:24:07 »
Its not such a swine to change the swivel seal, take off the brake caliper from the hub, drop steering link(s) and undo the ring of bolts round the end of the axle

Unless you want to service the hub bearings and cv's anyway, in that case its the full monty
Kev

'91 stretch Discovery 200 Tdi
Hybrid for running round (got to go now)
Srs 3 Lightweight petrol (got to go)
Srs 3 Lightweight petrol, runabout

Not every problem can be solved with duct tape, and it's exactly for those situations we have WD 40

Offline Range Rover Blues

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Heat blueing on CV joint
« Reply #3 on: April 24, 2005, 14:03:10 »
I agree with Hobbit, the only way to do it is to remove the swivel and hub as a whole, a little heavy but the best way to do the job.

As for the Bluing, don't worry!  Is it even all around? is it a nice elliptical pattern radiating from the centre of the land? It's probably been there since manufacture because the races are ground, they may also be induction hardened.  Both of which make the pretty blue and purple patterns.  If it's brownish right next to the running surface then it's hardening.  If you can't feel any clicking or roughness in the CV then it's fine.
The LR workshop manual does descrive the procedure to strip and check the insides of a joint but given the possibilities for all the bits to go everywhere and come back covered in doghair I wouldn't bother.  If it's Knack'ed get a good S.H one or stump up the price of a new one from Paddocks.
Blue,  1988  Range Rover 3.5 EFi with plenty of toys bolted on
Chuggaboom, 1995 Range Rover Classic
1995 Range Rover Classic Vogue LSE with 5 big sticks of Blackpool rock under the bonnet.

Offline Garth

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Heat blueing on CV joint
« Reply #4 on: April 24, 2005, 21:55:01 »
I dried off joint and sprayed WD40 in followed by engine oil Worked about in all directions and was smooth and yes the blueing was quite even.  So its gone back in.

Stripped the full lot down as I wanted to check the top swivel and both wheel bearings as well as replace the seal.  I had to take 2 thin shims out to get the correct preload but apart from that everything was OK.  But at least I know its all OK now.

Cheers
"WINNE"
1991 VOUGE SE A WITH LPG
LOOKS GOOD (BUT LOOKS CAN BE DECEIVING)
"TIGGER"
1995 SUZUKI VITARA
1" LIFT
225/75X15 AT'S

 






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