Vehicle & Technical > Discovery
oh bother, 200tdi disco motor
ChrisW70:
On these engine's the timing belt and cambelt mean the same thing don't they?!
The write up is for a 300 but once you're inside the belt chamber the principle is the same.
jay2578:
:oops:i think so :oops:
NiteMare:
--- Quote from: Range Rover Blues on February 25, 2010, 00:58:52 ---The fuel pump and camshaft are located using dowels, IIRC 9.5mm for the fuel pump. The crank is timed up using a notch that is visible through the drain plughole in the bellhousing, on the outside rim of the flywheel.
--- End quote ---
unfortunately my engine is in an 88" Series chassis so i can't see the flywheel timing mark due to there being a crossmember in the way so i'm going to have to make do with the arrow on the front casting and the key in the crank (i'll probably bore a hole thru my 109 crossmember and weld in a nice tube to facilitate locating pegs for possible future failures once i get into doing that conversion)
thanks for the link to that timing thread, it gives me more stuff to refer to, i may get that crank pulley if landrover tell me it fits and isn't stupidly expensive
mark-d:
replace all the pushrods not just the ones that look bent, they only cost a couple of quid each. mine belt snapped at the same speed as yours and only bent 3-4 push rods.
NiteMare:
ok we have a little progress and i took onboard a little modification that was suggested elsewhere and have fitted a breather to the top of the timing housing ..
pictures
fitted disco axle breather
then it was time to pull the bottom pulley, it was suggested that i use a prybar to drag it off but i thought that was a little aggressive, so took a small screwdriver and pushed it behind a gave a little twist, the pulley moved nice and easily enough for me to just pull it forward a little by hand until it stuck, i then used an ordinary three leg puller the drag it the rest of the way
oilseal was removed with a strip of 2mm steel bent into two hooks, wriggled into the seal, then with the aid of a lever quickly and cleanly tugged out, i couldn't photo putting the new one in but it was fitted carefully using a hammer and the old seal to site it nice and square
2mm steel used
then it was onto setting the timing up, there's two dots on both the IP pulley and the cam pulley, the IP marks correspond with a pair on the housing mating face which allows you to fit the obligatory 9.5mm drill and then slacken the three bolts...
then the cam pulley lines up with one dot on the housing mating face and a rib in the centre of the housing ..
crank woodruff key lines up with an arrow in the casting....
fit new tensioner and roller and fight to fit the belt, check all marks are still correctly aligned, adjust tensioner and tighten the three bolts on the IP, now rotate the crank twice (clockwise) to ensure everything is still aligned and retension the belt
this is as far as i've got at present, still got to refit the rocker gear and check the gaps, i'm happy with my progress
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