Vehicle & Technical > Discovery
RUSTPROOFING: ADVICE ON FIRMS & WAXOYL NEEDED
John Clayton:
What do you think of this person's advice on the web?
"Remember, nearly always, a chassis will rust from the inside to the outside because water gets trapped inside the box and hollow sections. All chassis can be easily repaired with professional skills using plating techniques and repair sections, so readily available from the advertisers in this magazine.
Waxoyled for the future
Whether your chassis is in first class order or just repaired. I strongly recommend that before applying Waxoyl treatment, you carry out the following preparation to give reliability (saving cost at each MOT time!), longevity (so many people buy a Land Rover product to last a lifetime!) and safety (so you chassis doesn't collapse when you do a bit of serious off-roading or heavy towing!)
At most low points of your chassis or crossmembers you will find a small drain hole. In between these holes or each side of them drill further 10mm holes, say 400mm-450mm apart. Then enlarge the holes with a tapered enlarging bit to around to about 20mm-30mm diameter. Carefully file the swarf left by the drilling and wire brush the whole of the chassis. Be sure to wear goggles/face mask and use gloves.
I work on the basis that if water is going to get in and lie on the hollow section of the chassis along with the mud, then let it run out before it drys and stays in there for good!
Now power wash the chassis inside and out using these nice large holes to get the nozzle in, working from both directions. Having got all the crap out, let the vehicle stand for a week or two in a dry ventilated place to let it all dry out.
Give a final wire brush of the entire chassis, being careful of brake pipes, fuel pipes and cables, followed by a good brush down or use a airline blow gun.
Hand paint or spray the whole lot in 'chassis black' or smooth black Hammerite in however number of coats you wish."
Also, for a 15 year old chassis/underbody with the normal patches of surface rust, would you recommend:
a) painting it with a rust killer paint then using a Waxoyl type treatment on top
b) painting it with Hammerite or 'Chassis Black' paint then using a Waxoyl type treatment on top
c) just Waxoyling straight onto the metal (less resilient to underbody abrasion e.g. when the vehicle 'grounds out'?)
Saffy:
landrover specialist near me used to charge 450 for a discovery treament. They spend a good chunk of the day on it too. Steam cleaning, drying and wire brushing, inject the cavities such as sill/chassis internals, door/bonnet/boot frames and pillars with clear wax, lightly spray the under bonnet bodywork with clear wax. Then apply black wax to the outer chassis/sill areas along with the floor, footwells and wheel arches of the vehicle. Finally clean the brakes and wash/polish the vehicles bodywork and brightwork. They used several cans of wax. Poor kiddie didn't look to healthy after doing it that's for sure. Seems pricey (beyond my budget anyway) but I think they earned the money. Plenty of place will charge you a hundy, stretch a tin to cover whole vehicle (where customer can see) and have job done in a hour or so and show you a pile of empty tins to make you happy.
John Clayton:
The garage in Port Stanley can do a Disco for about £100 inc Waxoyl and labour using a compressor. However, it turns out that this is for doing only the chassis and only its external surfaces!
I negotiated £200 to have the entire underbody done with black Waxoyl inc. the wheel arches, and the best they can do to spray Waxoyl into the chassis members. They might need to enlarge the drain holes so they can get the sprayer in, I suspect.
bigwood:
Rust proofing done last weekend. One can of black waxoil for the underside arches etc, half a can of clear in the chassis, sills and box sections. There are loads of holes that a Seely injection gun fit into. Truck now pongs of waxoil, better smelly than rusty. :roll:
John Clayton:
here's some gen on 'rust converter' treatments to consider before painting and then waxoyling over the top:
http://www.migweb.co.uk/forums/welding-fabrication-painting/14749-rust-treatment-jenolite-kurust.html
I think underbody rust needs something like the above, or this:
http://www.bilthamber.com/hydrate80.html
before being primered, painted, and then Waxoyled, if it's going to last well long term.
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