AuthorTopic: REAR CROSS MEMBER ON 90 DEFENDER  (Read 10761 times)

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Offline muddydisco

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REAR CROSS MEMBER ON 90 DEFENDER
« on: March 22, 2005, 21:07:11 »
HI

JUST WONDERING HOW MUCH ROUGHLY TO HAVE A CROSSMEMBER FITTED ON A 90 DEFENDER. HER THEY A PRONE TO CORRSION

                                     THANKS
YOU BEND IT YOU MEND IT

Offline datalas

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« Reply #1 on: March 22, 2005, 21:16:45 »
Cross member itself is upwards of £170 (for the replacement part), a garage would undoubtedly charge quite a premium for fitting, since it's quite and involved job even if you realise you can do it without taking the rear tub off.

I'd guess at anywhere around £500...  or at least, I wouldn't be overly shocked if it were above that.
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Offline landyman Ash

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« Reply #2 on: March 22, 2005, 21:42:09 »
If you can weld its quite an easy job and can be quite cheap.  Paddocks sell them for £115 and its actually quite and easy job.  Ive done it myself BUT it does rely on you welding it.  At ata garage you are looking £500+  
Join a local club and I can assure you someone will be able to help you.  Thats what happens in our club anyway
  :D
Ashley (but everyone knows me as Ash...)

Roxanne the 88" 300tdi auto Hybrid Trayback thats broken more than its fixed
Rosie the 300 Tdi auto disco that picks the hybrid up when broken...
Daisey the trailer that sits behind Rosie and lies under Roxanne.
The sexy threesome!!!!!!


Offline graham2306

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« Reply #3 on: March 22, 2005, 21:42:36 »
Replacing the cross member on my seriess III cost about £120 in total.  If what you say is true I'm glad my 90 has a galvanised chassis!

Can't see how it can be more complicated than a seriess III, the springs had to come off to do that and you wouldn't have that problem with a 90.  Biggest issue seems to be how far does the rust go?  Is it just a cross member or a quarter or half chassis.  We bought a cross member for the series III an ended up fabricating chassis bits.
It's not a real car unless it's over 30 years old!
Classic cars are the ones who's owners wave to each other. I just bought a pretend car! F plate 90!

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Offline datalas

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« Reply #4 on: March 22, 2005, 21:45:33 »
The only real complication comes with land rover's tendancy to run the wiring loom inside the chassis rail..

coupled with the fact that it is quite a sizable chunk you're cutting out and so it's not really a job for the feint hearted.

having said that, it is harder on a series since you have the problem that if you're not carefull you end up with an 88" on the one side only.
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Offline landyman Ash

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« Reply #5 on: March 22, 2005, 21:50:31 »
Quote:  The only real complication comes with land rover's tendancy to run the wiring loom inside the chassis rail..

Could not agree more.  Ended up cutting the loom and having to re-wire all the rear lights.  Not a mamouth job but a right pain in the bum  :evil:
Ashley (but everyone knows me as Ash...)

Roxanne the 88" 300tdi auto Hybrid Trayback thats broken more than its fixed
Rosie the 300 Tdi auto disco that picks the hybrid up when broken...
Daisey the trailer that sits behind Rosie and lies under Roxanne.
The sexy threesome!!!!!!


Offline hobbit

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« Reply #6 on: March 23, 2005, 09:56:29 »
agreed there with the loom, my lightweight is awaiting the same job, gonna take the loom back to where it enters the chassis up front, then use a rubberlite junction box high up, and run new cable p clipped to the chassis down to the tub then through the tub rails to the rear end
Kev

'91 stretch Discovery 200 Tdi
Hybrid for running round (got to go now)
Srs 3 Lightweight petrol (got to go)
Srs 3 Lightweight petrol, runabout

Not every problem can be solved with duct tape, and it's exactly for those situations we have WD 40

Offline Ollie

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« Reply #7 on: March 23, 2005, 19:19:13 »
Quote from: "Hobbit874"
agreed there with the loom, my lightweight is awaiting the same job, gonna take the loom back to where it enters the chassis up front, then use a rubberlite junction box high up, and run new cable p clipped to the chassis down to the tub then through the tub rails to the rear end


I did the same job on my Lightweight last year, Didn't have any problems with the loom, just disconnected the lights etc, then carefully cut off the x-member trying not to cut through the loom :(scared):
I then wrapped the loom in the heat mats that plumbers use where I would be welding, worked a treat :(biggrin):

Ollie
sex is the breakfast of champions

Neill

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« Reply #8 on: March 24, 2005, 15:46:41 »
I can't weld so the way I went about the job (on my 110) was

Park over inspection pit at local blacksmiths.

Remove the anti roll bar, fuel tank (incl. pump) and tow bar.

I then cut through the loom where it comes back out of the chassis at the back.

Unbolted the body from the chassis and then attacked the chassis with a cutter. Cut the old bit off, rubbed the old material down where it was to be welded. (see picture)

Slid the new cross member over the old stubs, attached the body to the chasis and then let the blacksmith weld it on. Painted everything and soldered all the wires in the loom together.

Remounted the parts I took off before. The whole thing took two days.

Offline muddyweb

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« Reply #9 on: March 24, 2005, 15:50:19 »
So... which bits did you weld up on that poor chap ?
Tim Burt
Muddyweb
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Neill

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poor chap
« Reply #10 on: March 24, 2005, 16:09:23 »
That poor chap is me. I came home for lunch after two hours in the inspection kit cutting the old crossmember off and my son took the picture of my fantastic sun tan.

Offline hobbit

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REAR CROSS MEMBER ON 90 DEFENDER
« Reply #11 on: March 24, 2005, 16:21:04 »
Wonder if i posted your pic on the front door if it would scare the kids away round here. :wink:  :lol:

Note underneath, I live here and this is my good day!

WADDYA WANT!
Kev

'91 stretch Discovery 200 Tdi
Hybrid for running round (got to go now)
Srs 3 Lightweight petrol (got to go)
Srs 3 Lightweight petrol, runabout

Not every problem can be solved with duct tape, and it's exactly for those situations we have WD 40

 






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