Vehicle & Technical > Defender

diesel pump setting

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Graham2:
There's a bit of smoke on start up, and there's what looks like a bonfire coming out of the exhaust pipe! The latter is what i've got, and if I started it on the street, somebody would call the fire brigade. There is definitely something very wrong somewhere, new rings, big end bearings and overhauled head should have made the engine better not worse. Only trial and error is going to get me out of this smoky nightmare.

trickydicky:
i started mine the other day and just as i turned the key an old bloke walked past. it took about 10 seconds to clear an then i saw him staggering about coughing .all my nabers were wetting there pants . i normally wait until nobody is around until i start her so i do feel yer pain .

bombx3:
i had the same problem with a used 200tdi some one had messed with the pump settings .i was lucky got hold of another pump and measured lengh of threads on thing then perfect

trickydicky:
I FOUND THIS ON THE NET   VERY INTERESTING                 if you find the power is very high but you have lots of black smoke
from exhaust at all ranges , undo the fuel metering screw on rear of
pump and go out 1/4 turn at a time until smoke dissappears .
youll have to strike balance between power and smoke and so it may take
a few attempts to get satisfactory .

this screw is on rear of pum near the injector pipe unions , it has a
13mm locknut and a screwthread extending out about 25mm , there is
screwdriver slot in end of thread , you hold locknut loose with spanner
and then unscrew or screw the thread in or out as desired .
IN for more fuel, OUT for less .

the "smoke adjuster" is on top of pump housing,there is a small [gold]
blanking cap [15mm dia] on top of casting  which has the 4 screws in ,
pry cap out with screwdriver and youll see 13mm locknut with a 8mm TORX
grub screw , this screw is screwed in for more fuel and out for less ,
locknut may be loctited and so might need a bit of effort to undo .

inside pump, under top casting , ie the housing on top of pump which
has 4 screws holding it down , is a diaphragm and shaft and a starwheel
adjuster which alters fuel delivery rates .

the metal plate holding rubber diaphragm has a dot mark on it and the
diaphragm can be rotated to change fuel metering rates , this will be
pointing somewhere between 12 oclock [to rocker cover]  and 6 oclock
[towards wing ] , the leanest position is towards rocker cover and
richest towards wing .

just take it that youll position it somewhere from 12 oclock to 6
oclock , it does not screw in and out but rotates around a 360deg axis
.

you can pull the diaphragm assembly out by hand , in one piece with
rubber and shaft attatched .

on shaft youll note a  tapered and eccentric shape of shaft , this
rests against a pin down in the pump itself and alters fuel rates
according to position the taper or eccentric is in .

the turbo boost pressure is applied upon diaphragm via pipe on side of
top housing and thus pushes shaft down using the diaphragm , allowing
pin in pump  to come in and allow more fuel thru as revs and boost
pressure increase etc .

under diaphragm youll see large spring , this is just placed in there
and can be removed/reinstalled easily .

under spring youll see a starwheel adjuster , this has a click stop
adjustment and if you pry the lock spring using screwdriver you can
rotate the starwheel .

to lessen spring pressure effect of starwheel you will screw the
starwheel in clockwise , but only about 1/2 turn at a time and noting
smoke from exhaust [under load] after adjustment .

to lessen spring effect you undo the starwheel .

this starwheel alters the spring pressure against the diaphragm and
alters where the turbo boost is allowed to move the diaphragm downwards
to increase fuel flow .

basically only minor adjustment of starwheel should need to be made ,
if any adjustment .

there is a white nylon spacer on the metering shaft and dont forget to
make sure it is still fitted when refitting metering shaft/diaphragm
and spring assembly , as it stops length of travel of metering shaft .

the main adjustment that makes most difference is the full load
adjustment on rear of pump , if unscrewed too far youll note lack of
pull when in top gear at low [25mph ] speed when on flat road .

hope that is easy enough to understand.

ive been adjusting my pump for maximum economy , so all my adjustments
have been in reverse .
previous owner screwed everything IN , yes it went like stink but i
only got 23mpg locally and lees on motorway driving .

cheers , ian .

.

trickydicky:
i am still eagerly awaiting to see if the pump thingy worked i take it it didnt then o well its back to the drawing board then

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