Shock Boots or no Shock Boots?

[auf_wiedersehen_pet]

Just got some new rear shocks (thanks to bensonsnuts).

The question is........

Shock Boots or no Shock Boots?

 :P I've already got a mint set of boots on the Pro Comps that are coming off so money is not an issue.
 :P For looks, a shiny rod is so much better that a floppy rubber (Ooh err missus).

The question is focused on the durability/longevity. Will the rod rust prematurely or will the action of the shock wipe it clean during use?

[solihull-mick]

Good question, ive fitted many sets of pro comps, and allways fitted the boots, but in the heat of battle they do tend to pull the boot off the shocker body, mine still come off after glueing them on, i rekon you would be fine with no boots, wont fail the test for that, shocker has a wiper seal on the piston, shocker shaft is made from stainless so wont rust, i guess you woulkd be fine with out,

[auf_wiedersehen_pet]

Many thanks for the answer Mick.

Forgot to say that my shock boots are ofetn full of dirty brown sludgy water when I lift them slightly. Can't be good holdng all of that water.

 :off topic: Loving the rebuild mate - worth every minute. :off topic:

[Disco-Ron]

What about fitting them to the top of the shock, but not pushing them onto the body of the shock itself.... that way they keep most of the crap out, but can still let the water n crap out aswell!!

[Wolfie]

I didn't bother at all when I fitted the 8 that Mathilda wears and they seem to be holding up OK*, but she doesn't do many miles, but she has procomps as they are as close to disposable as you can get.

A few people recently have commented that they fit them, but cut to lenght so that they cover the rod when at rest but will allow all the muck to flow out, and have had good results.

*apart from the front set of rear shocks which look as if a team of demented elves have attacked the bodies of the shocks with their hammers.

[Range Rover Blues]

Pistons are NOT made from stainless, pistons on ProComps get chipped and go rusty, destroying the wiper seal and causing leaks.

Fit the boots but don'e secure them to the body, better still cut the boots in half and fit just enough for the piston to be covered when the car is at rest, that way they don't collect muck inside them but do protect the piston from stone chips.

[solihull-mick]

what ever :roll:

[L90OOK]

Pro Comps are made with Chrome hardened steel pistons which is why, if chipped, go rusty 

[boss]

thought the salt they spread on the roads this time of year doesnt do the chrome anygood either.

[Steve ray]

fit 'em (fixed at the top) but "loose" at the bottom so all the muck n water can drain out!

[Disco_Stu]

I cable tied a set on mine and hey presto - rusty shocks. Took the rubbers off completely and no probs.

The best way is probably what has been stated above, fit the rubbers but make sure they can drain.

stu.

[clbarclay]

I was running without, but the shafts on the rear dampers were starting to suffer (scratches and the odd chip in the chrome) so now running half height boots.
I would sooner not have the concertina type of boot as when the compress the end up limiting the movement of the damper so you don't get full travel and can turn it into a bump stop which is not good.

[Range Rover Blues]

thought the salt they spread on the roads this time of year doesnt do the chrome anygood either.

That reminds me, I'm told that our local authority (amongst others) isn't using salt as such anymore but a food-related additive instead.

The result is that the roads get sticky/slippery when the dew forms, this is causing more accidents though it is effective in snow.

So if your roads have been gritted, be extra careful.

[Budgie]

I've had them both with andwithout boots and for mostly on-road then I would say go with the boots because I don't have boots on them now and tops of the shockers are as rusty as hell.
So went I get round to fitting new ones the boots will be going back on. Whether I secure them at the bottom or not I've not decided yet.  ;)