Vehicle & Technical > Suzuki
vitara for fun
mudflap:
the floor plates are mounted like my boss's mk2 esscort race car cage. plate on upper and lower. see the point of the front a piller bars. most the cage is made of 3'x1.5' box. i havent cut the body near the b piller there a beam fron them under the roof side to side and we didnt tutch that part. and the floor runs up to the 2nd set of mounts under the body. thats how the rear door are still there.
oh well ill just take it to the scrap yard
wheelspinner:
If you are going to scrap it take the 16v motor out they make half decent money at the moment.... i know a few people after them.
Evilgoat:
--- Quote from: "mudflap" ---the floor plates are mounted like my boss's mk2 esscort race car cage. plate on upper and lower. see the point of the front a piller bars. most the cage is made of 3'x1.5' box. i havent cut the body near the b piller there a beam fron them under the roof side to side and we didnt tutch that part. and the floor runs up to the 2nd set of mounts under the body. thats how the rear door are still there.
oh well ill just take it to the scrap yard
--- End quote ---
The problem is, in an escort there is structure there, remeber your Vit has a Ladder Chassis, the Escort is a monocoque.
You havent cut the B pillar but look at the difference between yours and mine ...
The pillar is a lot thicker and is straight, wehere yours supported the doors its not a straight run and will buckle at those points. You should also have a box section from pillar to pillar whereas what you have there is a C section. Granted, the girder you welded in there does negate that a little :)
The back section also no longer has any crosswise regidity, if you roll sideways it'll deform, assuming its a square cross section now you'll end up with a parralellogram. Cross sectional bracing and a proper bulkhead will stop this.
If pressed I have to say that you really wanted to do this and figured it would just work out alright and didnt really do your research before you started it. I've done that before on other things, you just want to get the power tools out. Age and experience will teach you not to :)
If I had to turn that into something safe. I'd pull all the box secton off, go back to the basiscs. and fit a bulkhead. Remove that roof flap and do it properly, I have seen tailgates used for this job and with crossbracing that will help. Weld the edge of the roof to get the box section back or build one in. Thern start on the cage with goood non seamed tubing and bend rather than weld and then dont bend it its not needed. Where the frame meets the floor it needs to be on a chassis member or an outrigger fashined to meet the chassis. A crossbrace on the back where you fram slopes down will help too and you may even want to think about going dukes of hazard stylee and weld the doors and fit side impact bars. Drop that fuel tank and gof for a plastic marine tank. its smaller and easier to mount out of harms way.
I'm open to being wrong to but my aim would be for something to walk away from when it all goes pete tong.
OR look at a Blitz
http://www.blitzworld.co.uk/content.php?categoryId=146
You have most of what you need already. I've seen them about and they look good as well as removing a lot of the limitations of the vit.
StuartL:
I know that what Evilgoat is saying could come across badly but do listen to what he says. It's important to get it right and that involves spending a lot of time on the design, a lot of time on the implementation and a bit of cash on the right materials.
You have the base for an excellent offroader and obviously the motivation to make it something special. Trust in the guys here, a lot of them have rolled vehicles and seen what happens if it's not built to spec.
Tommo:
scaffold is not the right stuff to use really, although it is very strong. designed to hold massive structures and a lot of weight.
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