Wiring in an extra cigar lighter socket

[Steven]

Hi everyone,

We like the idea of having a fridge in the back of the discovery which plugs into the cigar only so we can remove it when not in use, just like what we used to do when we had the Chrysler Voyager. The only thing is the wires not long enough and extending it is not an option really as we want the front free for the cigar lighter and just don’t want the wires trailing back into the boot.

So basically what we want is another cigar lighter socket built into the boot. I’m not really good with electrics and after the recent burnt wires in the front of the vehicle which we don’t know how it started, I don’t want to really go ahead and try wire one in without being sure.

So could any of you lot explain how to wire one in safely please. (sorry for the long description, lol)

[ids]

Hi

The officail LR guide is at http://www.ownerinfo.landrover.com/extfree2viewlrprod/viewit.jsp?szFrom=doc&iDocCode=669 however I did my own version as put sockets in the dash, rear of centre console and in the back.  See http://blackcountrylaners.co.uk/forums/thread/2032.aspx

Have fun

[petergalileo]

I got a nice surface mount 12 volt accessory socket from a local boat shop.  I ran a 30 amp twin core wire from the battery down the inside of the wing, through the bulkhead where a cable went in, behind the dash to drivers side floor then ran it along the side of the disco under the carpets, got it through past the rear seats, behind the panel of the boot seats to where the access panel for the rear lights is.

Put the hole in the back panel near the rear door hinges for the socket (1992 versions onwards have a light there too).  

I also put a 30 amp fuse in line right up near the battery so the whole wire length is protected.

[thermidorthelobster]

Maplins do a 4-way cigarette lighter adapter for about 8 quid.  Might be worth it to give you spare sockets for chargers etc.

You have a choice of running your own wiring straight off the battery - in which case it needs to have a fuse of some sort - which is probably easiest if you can find a nice simple place to run the cabling through the bodywork;  or find a spare bit of wiring which is rated for the correct current and isn't currently being used (such as trailer wiring).

If you're using existing wiring, bear in mind some is switched with the ignition, and some will be permanently on.  For a fridge you might want an always-on feed, so you can run the fridge when the car's parked, but it's also a good way to flatten the battery.

The easiest thing is to run 2 wires off the battery, through a fuse rating slightly higher than your fridge, along the chassis rails and into the body.  Then solder or crimp on a Maplins lighter socket, plug in and go.

[Steven]

Great thanks ever so much guys! I know what I'm doing now  8)

Cheers

[dave_2A_2.25Turbo]

Even a mini fridge will flatten a battery in a relatively short space of time though

[thermidorthelobster]

Yeah, the one in the 101 was a nightmare if you left it on.

[Steven]

Well is there any way of getting around this some how? Of course we wouldn't keep it on over night but maybe for hour or two with engine off:?

[thermidorthelobster]

Twin batteries and a split charge would be ideal.  I'm sure you could wire in a switch which would disconnect the fridge when the voltage dropped, but i suspect by the time the switch sensed the voltage drop, the battery would be too low to restart the engine.

The easiest thing is probably to carry one of those little jump-start batteries  :roll:

[Steven]

Thanks for your time people  :)

[Fourby]

I use a Starter Pack with a 12v ciggy lighter socket to power my cool box.
I plug the  starter pack into the 12v Feed in the boot then plug the coolbox into this.
It charges the starter pack when driving and then works like an auxilary battery for the coolbox when stopped. however it does run down the starter pack quite quickly!
The starter pack always lives in the car with or without the coolbox attached.

[Frankie-Boy]

I bought an electronic gizmo that goes inline and shuts the fridge off if the voltage level drops below a certain level, it should leave your battery with adequate power to kick the engine into life.

You just plug the gizmo into the cigar socket and the fridge plugs into that, easy really.

Only one problem though, I cant think where I got it from.  

[Steven]

I'm going to go with the easy way the said by thermidorthelobster...

The easiest thing is to run 2 wires off the battery, through a fuse rating slightly higher than your fridge, along the chassis rails and into the body. Then solder or crimp on a Maplins lighter socket, plug in and go.

Forgetting the fridge idea, what fuse would you recomend if I was wirring in a 2 way socket? Also could I wire in one of them switches which light up when turned on, if so how how how?  :)  :oops:

A normal switch I would know what to do but not the lighyt up ones  :oops:

[Steven]

Any electritions out there?  :)

[thermidorthelobster]

Pop into Maplins and have a look at their switches;  you should be able to get a 12v switch that works just like a normal switch, with only 2 connections, that lights up.  This sort of thing:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=43005&criteria=12v%20switch&doy=28m8

Re the fuse, what are you looking at hanging off the socket?

[Steven]

Pop into Maplins and have a look at their switches;  you should be able to get a 12v switch that works just like a normal switch, with only 2 connections, that lights up.  This sort of thing:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=43005&criteria=12v%20switch&doy=28m8

Re the fuse, what are you looking at hanging off the socket?

Do you mean what are we planning to plug in?

[Steven]

Also all light switches has 3 connections. Also like the one you just shown ^^

[thermidorthelobster]

Sorry, you're right, the switch has 3 connections:  1 for the 12v feed, one for the switched output, and one to earth, otherwise the light wouldn't work :oops:

Yep, the fuse rating will depend on what you want to run off the socket.  Your fridge would pull quite a large current (which should be shown in amps on the side of it somewhere) as would a tyre compressor, but a phone charger wouldn't.

[Steven]

Cheers  :)
Thanks for your time mate, much appreciated!

[SteveGoodz]

Yep, the fuse rating will depend on what you want to run off the socket.

Um, no, actually. The fuse rating depends on the current capability of the wiring - the fuse is there to protect the cables from burning out NOT to protect the load. You should rate the cables to take the maximum current that you will need to run whatever you're plugging in and then use the correct fuse for that cable.

[thermidorthelobster]

Yeah, you're right of course!  I normally do it ass-about-face and overspec the wiring, then put in a fuse which is rated just above whatever I'm thinking of running.  On the basis that if the appliance goes wrong, or the wiring shorts beyond the fuse, then the fuse will still protect the wiring.  Good point that man...

[Disco_Stu]

Thinking of doing the same myself.

I've no use for the two rear seats so thought I may remove at least one to create an area for an inverter and multiple 12v sockets for charging me dive torch, 2 way radios etc on the way to wherever I'm going. (Vital really cos I never remember to do it the night b4!!)

Let us know how you get on with scarlett, you may be able to steer me away from all sorts of horrible mistakes  :shock:  :shock:

Stu.

[thermidorthelobster]

Stu, I've got a fairly hefty inverter (only 400W but it's pure sine wave so it's much bigger than the Maplins ones) which I've managed to house below the front passenger seat.  May save some hassle.

[cardiff_gareth]

see here for some:

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/switches/12vacc.php#cig

[Evilgoat]

The Rabbit has one.

60A Cable from battery into new WATERPROOF aux fuse box. (This runs spots CB, Sirent, Alarm, the works so 60A is overkill for a ciggie lighter.

It runs through a 30A fuse into cable rated at 40A. 40A is less likeley to melt, and will suffer a lower voltage drop than a 30A cable working at 30A. This is jacketed and goes through the bulkhead and into the sill insoide the car (might not be able to do this on a Disco) then runs all the way into the back, over the wheel arch into a panel mounted socket by the tailgate. I have actually pulled the full 30A through this on more than one ocasion and vapourised the fuse a few times too. Its normally used to run my 150W magnetic spotlight or the fridge. Ground comes from the chassis on mine and is bolted through the inertia reel mount.

If you want a switch, use a realy, same if you want it off with the ignition. Switches that can deal with that sort of current are expensive and hard to find and normally look horrible. Where as a 40A relay can be lifted from almost any scrap car.

For a Switch with a light, there are two ways.

Where you have Common, feed and ground wire it up as it says on the switch.

Where you have common, feed and then two supply lines for the light wire the light between the output of the switch and ground.

Theres another trick to hold the power on after the ignition is turned off untill whatever you are running turns off too ;)

I would advise against running cables like that under the car, too much chance to get it damaged. Keep the fuse as close to the battery as hjumanely possible, is not as if Discos lack room down there.

[freeagent]

I've done the same thing, fitted an inverter and additional power distribution box/ ciggy sockets in one of the storage bins in my boot (where one of the dickie seats would be in a 7-seater)

I ran a heavy cable (8 guage I think) along the top of the near side chassis rail (its got a 60A fuse in the engine bay, to protect the wiring and battery) then up through a handy rubber gromit in the boot floor.

This goes to a 4-way fused distribution board, which then goes to a surface mount 4-way ciggy socket, powers my hard-wired inverter and powers a second set of brake lights (switched via a relay)

When we went to morocco last year i fitted a second battery in the boot and charged it via a VSR relay.

We ran the fridge almost constantly (only switched it off when we were sleeping) and powered all sorts of bits from this set up.

Maplins sell good fuse holders and distribution bits, aimed at the scally car hi-fi market, you can pick up a heavy weight, gold plated 4-way distribution board for a tenner, which is fitted with glass fuses rated upto 100A.

[Disco_Stu]

I'm a bit dense when dealing with elastictrickery I'm afraid. Stereos, alarms etc are easy - find the lives, pin switches etc.

What is a 4 way distribution board and why do I need one? :)

Stu

[Disco_Stu]

Stu, I've got a fairly hefty inverter (only 400W but it's pure sine wave so it's much bigger than the Maplins ones) which I've managed to house below the front passenger seat.  May save some hassle.

What is the benefit of this thermi? I have one sat in the garage that a pal give me. I dont really know how it'll perform. I'll go look at the specs and maybe you can tell me.

Stu.

[cardiff_gareth]

Is an inverter a fancy name for one of them boxes that connects to a live and an earth on your Disco and then you plug a standard 3 pin plug into the box. i.e. mobile plug socket  :?:

[Disco_Stu]

This is the one I've got.

Specs read:

Max output - 120w
Input - 10.5 > 15vdc
Output voltage - 230V/50hz
Input protection fuse 12V

Battery low alarm 10.5+/-0.5vdc
Battery low shutdown 10.0+/-0.5vdc

What do you reckon?