Wheel studs

[Nick Bradshaw]

I've put Wolf wheels on the Series III and the studs should, I think, be longer. Can anyone give me a good source for wheel studs that would fit a Series Three and were long enough to secure the wheels? I assume that the short studs are dangerous; they only seem to be about three threads or so in.

Many thanks.

[Lucy1978]

Zeus engineering, not cheep though

[Artwigwa]

I had the same prob, pls see the link...  :?

http://forums.mud-club.com/viewtopic.php?t=25167&highlight=

[Nick Bradshaw]

I have tried Zeus Engineering. The studs are £5.00 each, as the girl just told me, trying very hard to stop laughing as she did so. Seems a lot! Thanks for the advice.

[Bob Ajob]

You should have asked her for the part number, that way you can find them elsewhere (unless it's their own part number...)

[AbyssDJ]

the studs are too short on defenders with wolf rims fitted - its fine. you just need to make sure they're tightened to about 120lb/ft. i would imagine they're just as fine on series landies... unless the studs are shorter than defenders of course.

[hobbit]

You should really have the whole wheel nut threads on the stub, can cause problems if you get caught or on an mot if not

Options would be longer wheel studs
Shorter wheel nuts
or
Capped wheel nuts

[lampyrover31]

Ola,
I was tought as an apprentice that a good rule of thumb is to have at least half the diameter of the thread sticking out the nut.

Do you have any friends who are engineers or have access to a lathe or a local engineering firm who could make you some to whatever length you require?
I dont know if they are hardened or not without checking mine but an engineering firm would be able to get that done if needed also(or you could do it yourself but the hardness would be a bit random)

Does anybody not make a boss or adaptor ring with holes for the original nuts and then 5 longer studs offset from the original holes that would fit the wolf wheels?This would however make the vehicle track a littel wider(i reckon about and1 1/2" either side)?

What thread are they do you know?
Ta

[TBM]

On ebay there's a bloke selling reasonable cheap spacers. I imagine that he's using extended studs - he may be able to sell you set?

[Bob Ajob]

You might be able to get some from Paddock Spares:
08454 584499 (UK local rate)

You will need to call as you can't see them online. You will also need to speak to someone who knows about them, or they will probably not know they do them.

[Nick Bradshaw]

Thanks very much for the advice. I have bought twenty from Paddocks; they charge £1. 76 each. Good, I thought.

Now all I have to do is a half door and an MOT and PLY99L hits the road again. Long wheelbase Series Three, 2.6 petrol. All the joys of motoring plus twelve miles to the gallon!

[Bob Ajob]

Do you have any pictures? (vehicle really, I know what studs look like...)

If you click on Photos by your post, you login on the next page and upload pictures to a gallery which we can view. Is it a hardtop, or soft top, or station wagon?

[Nick Bradshaw]

It's blue, has a hard top, side windows; but John Skentleberry in Ivybridge, Devon ( a Land Rover doctor who trades as 'Relentless Rovers' and excellent bloke; he's got a yard full of Series Land Rovers and is one of the best Land Rover mechs in the country) has a safari double skin roof with top windows, which he's putting on for me at the moment; rest of it is pretty standard; wheel mount on bonnet, but I've got a spare plain bonnet as well, for field work.

I have just had the engine completely re-built at enormous cost, by Paul Inch in Plymouth; reground crank, new bearings, rebored, new pistons, all the gear, valves, head, all faces skimmed and so on. It seems good, but the oil light has started to flicker at low revs; so I hope it's a dodgy switch, and nothing else! It's had a half-chassis, and the side pillars for the hinge hangers went but instead of the full pillars, found enough good metal to take patches. I'll replace them eventually.  

I'll take some picks as soon as I get it back. Thanks for the interest. Anyone got any ideas about the oil light?

[Bob Ajob]

About the oil light, being as you've just had the engine rebuilt, I suspect you're on 10w40 grade oil. How many miles since the rebuild? It may be the engine has worn in a bit now, and so at low revs the oil pressure is now a bit lower. If you're due another oil change you may want to switch to 15w40 to see if that makes a difference to the oil pressure & oil light.

[hobbit]

Hate oil warning lights, prefer mechanical oil pressure gauge, more reliable

electrics + landrover  =  :?    :x

[Nick Bradshaw]

Thanks for the advice. It's done about 1500 miles since the rebuild. I'll try the heavier oil.New oil pump was part of the rebuild.

[S188]

Don't know how simular the 2.6 IOE is to the series 1 2.0 IOE engine but they aren't that different.  In which case it'll probubly like a good thick oil like 20w50 for normal use due to the age of its design.  Also with the 2.0 its possable to ajust the oil presure with a locked nut near the sump on the left hand side of the engine (left hand side of vehicle).  That could well be in a different place with a 6 though if its there.

[Nick Bradshaw]

It was the oil plug; it was new, but leaking. I couldn't find that adjuster on mine; perhaps they don't have one. Shame though, it sounds like a good idea. Engine's good, although still horribly thirsty; put a double roof on it, new fascia, new master and  front slaves on brakes (and clutch). Getting there!