Vehicle & Technical > Discovery
V8 left hand bank
doris:
Send me an email to thepad3 at tiscali.co.uk (substitute at for @) and i'll attach it to a reply........ its quite a chunky pdf.
Damon
disco-v8:
i cant see it been the lambda's the wrong way round as the wires will not go that far...
ive already done a little test with the multimeter on the lambdas and they sit at about 1volt ish and when reved and let go its shoots to about 1.5 volts... i know these should stay inbetween 1 - 5 volts but i dont no what they should be at idle......
where can i get one of those replacement risisters from which tells the ECU that it hasnt got lambdas, and where does it go?????
i know its not cuz the alternater is in the way as the heat difference is quite alot, and i no that my engine just isnt quite rite, it just seems to get to hot (but doesnt over heat) im sure that the rocker coves arent ment to get hot enough to burn you and the plneum can burn to......
like today while offroading after its been driven for a while under alot of load and then turned off, and then back on again, it has trouble idling and some times stalls, its can also do this after driving it on roads for a while
more and more help needed.... does anyone no what the 3.9 efi V8 tempurature should be when warmed up, and dont tell me what the guage says, i want a proper figure
thanks
Range Rover Blues:
TSR or tune select resistor is enclosed in plastic and sits within a few inches of the ECU under the seat or in the middle of the dash access panel ona soft dash if it isn't still wrapped up in the wiring loom.
Change it for one from an old pre-cat equiped car or make one up, then you can disconnect the lamdas. IIRC the sockets for them come out of the wiring loom in roughly the same place don't they? could be wrong though.
Top of my engines get hot enough to hurt, remeber that inside the cylinder gets hot enough to melt aluminium :wink:
Lamdas probably not correct at idle as most EFi systems only run stoichiometric above idle speed and up to about 70% Wide Open Throttle.
skip:
I'm only going by what my 94 jeep did when I was testing the lambda.
At idle and moderate throttle openings the voltage would fluctuate as the EFI system is always trying to achieve stoich, but as it's impossible to maintain due to other outside infulences it's having to constanly compensate. under sudden acceleration or WOT the mix would go rich to produce plenty of power and prevent a stumble or cough.
Here comes the guess work bit on my part, I think that because the hotwire system uses 0-5 volt sensors instead of 0-1 volt sensors, It would be able to more accuratley judge the mixture and so hold it slightly on the rich side at idle. but I would still expect to see a fluctuation in the voltage output from the sensors, just slightly higher or lower on the voltage range given by the sensor.
Disco-v8 I see on your last post that you said when you revved the engine it shot to about 1.5 volts from about 1 volt, IMO that's not doing what it should. I would expect to see much larger change in voltage. First when on the pedal with rising revs I would expect to see quite an increase in voltage. Then when off the pedal and falling revs there should be a fuel injection cut so the voltage should be sticking very close to 0 or 5 volts until revs fall to around 1700-1500rpm when fuel injection is resumed.
I am only theorising as I don't know the lucas system very well, but all injection systems operate in similar ways. My guess is your o2 sensors are shot.
Hope it helps anyway.
Pete.
Range Rover Blues:
I'm not sure the Hot wire uses fuel cut-off during deceleration, going on what I was told about the setup of a multipoint LPG system where it is an option.
I think it could be the Lambdas are suspect, provided it is a fuel problem and not a cooling problem.
Here's a thought for you anyway, beg/borrow/steal a contact thermometer or optical/laser thermometer and check the temperature of variouos parts of the engine when it's had a run, I'll check mine for you to compare it to, ok?
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