Topic: Advice for body lift (Read 4270 times)

buster uk · « **on:** June 27, 2007, 09:10:45 »

Hi all,
Im planning on doing a body lift on my rangie.I am going to make the spacers myself and was hoping to get some tips from those who have done it.
What size should i go for ? I was thinking 2" would be a good place to start.
Because mine is an auto i believe the only things that need work appart from the body mounts of course are the high/low lever needs lengthening and the steering coupling , also the radiator needs raising.Is this correct and is there anything i've missed ?

cheers,
andy

clbarclay · « **Reply #1 on:** June 27, 2007, 14:44:09 »

Theres already a welth of information an views on whether its the right choice and advantages/disadvantages. Try a search.

As for what size, I went for 40mm (about 1.5") which seems to have worked quite well. A friend has comfortably lifted his bobtail 3" without any undue problems the main limit of about 3" is that this is what the steering linkages could slide to without modification.

At 40mm lift there is just enough length in my hi/low to wind it off just a couple of turns and still work.

The radiator lower mounts are to the chassis so it stays at the same height as the eingine, you just need to drill 2 holes in the body to mount the top brakets lower. Being an auto box thw pipes for thje oil cooler run under the radiator and then through 2 small holes in the body, to solve this you undo the flex pipes behind the radiator, slide out the oil cooler and then either make new holes or reroute the oil coolers steel pipes. Can post pics if you need a clearer explanation.

hairyasswelder · « **Reply #2 on:** June 27, 2007, 15:29:04 »

Dont forget the seat belt anchors and the two tie bolts under the body

Also remember that the bumpers dont move and it leaves a strange looking gap under the front panel.

Steve

clbarclay · « **Reply #3 on:** June 27, 2007, 19:20:42 »

Quote from: "hairyasswelder"

Also remember that the bumpers dont move and it leaves a strange looking gap under the front panel.

That would be another advantage of only doing 40mm lift is that the front end still looks aceptable as the lip of the grill sits just above a standard bumper, though my the bumper won't remain standard for long and will be built to suit, just like the rear bumper which won't fit on a RRC without a lift.

One important question is how much bigger tyres are you planning on fitting, there is not much point lifting the body further than necissery to clear the tyres.

hairyasswelder · « **Reply #4 on:** June 27, 2007, 21:09:00 »

I made my spacers 37mm to avoid the issues of the tie bolts BUT keep getting put off by how much work is involved :oops:
Also 'er indoors can hardly get in it now :twisted:
One day I will fit them, honest :roll:

Steve

buster uk · « **Reply #5 on:** June 30, 2007, 19:09:40 »

cheers guys,
I did try a search and read some info,also that link to the tomax range rover build.Just wanted help from people that have actually done the job.

Im planning on running 35" tyres .ive got a 2" lift and thought a 2" body lift and flared arches would do it.

Im not sure what you mean about the oil cooler but im sure all will become apparent when i do it.

Any more tips ? Do i just go and undo all the mounts and things that will stop the body lifting like steering shaft etc then use a high lift jack to lift the body ?
Also the seat belt anchors and the two tie bolts under the body,where are these please ?

cheers,
andy

clbarclay · « **Reply #6 on:** June 30, 2007, 20:01:21 »

Quote from: "buster uk"

Im not sure what you mean about the oil cooler but im sure all will become apparent when i do it.

Unless the pipe layout is different on yours to mine, just watch out for the auto box oil cooler pipes around the radiator as you lift the body.

The rear seat belt anchor bolts are bellow the rear floor just in front of the chassis cross member in front of the fuel tank. The front tie bolts are just inside the chassis rails, along the middle section of the chassis.

A high lift will do or a trolly/bottle jack. Slaken/remove anything like tie bolts or steering shaft and remove all the nuts of the body mount bolts. I then did one side at a time, remove the bolts, lift, fit spacers, fit longer bolts and then lower again before moving on to the next side.

The most time consuming jobs for me were removing the old rubber mounts as I was replacing them and removing the tie bolts to the chassis.

buster uk · « **Reply #7 on:** June 30, 2007, 22:49:58 »

What are tie bolts ? I've never heard of them :oops:

Range Rover Blues · « **Reply #8 on:** July 02, 2007, 13:22:34 »

Seat belt anchorage tie bolts I believe.

Anyone mention the filler neck yet?

buster uk · « **Reply #9 on:** July 02, 2007, 14:41:12 »

Ah yes the fuel filler.
Is it rubber or use a rubber coupling at all ? If so i could just extend it i suppose.Something else to undo before i lift the body,thanks for the tip.

clbarclay · « **Reply #10 on:** July 02, 2007, 16:17:33 »

with a 40mm lift there is enough movement in the flexible section of the filler pipe. All I had to was slacken the hose clips and rotate the flexible section because the ends are offset from each other. I dought this would work though for more than 40mm lift as it was on its limit.

Range Rover Blues · « **Reply #11 on:** July 03, 2007, 14:28:50 »

Depends on which model you have and I think yours is a high level filler/plastic tank Buster, so it will be different to the one on the steel tank.

buster uk · « **Reply #12 on:** July 03, 2007, 21:14:16 »

ah ok,cheers.Need to take a look at it then.

Wolfie_ · « **Reply #13 on:** July 05, 2007, 20:36:41 »

When did a bodylift on my rangie the worst part and most time consuming part of the job had to be undoing all the nuts and bolt that had never been undone since new. I used one hi-lift jack to raise the body. It was very simple to do, once all the bolts were undone(10 bolts hold the shell down and 4 bolts tie the rear seat belt mount and front floor to the chassis ) I put the jack under the sill just in front of the front door and jacked it up high enough to get most of the spacers in on one side, I then had to put the jack under the rear just to lift enough to get the very rear spacer in, I then repeated this on the other side.One problem you come across is that you cant just put longer bolt through the holes, you have to remove the bushes and put the bolts through at an angle and then resettle the bushes back into place (sounds worse than it is to do ,when doing it you'll find it easier to picture what i mean)the only two bolts I couldn't put back in were the two rear ones as there is just not enough room so I put these up from the bottom but all were secured with nylock nuts so shouldn't be a problem.The only problem Ive encountered after the lift is that mines got a manual gearbox and the clutch pipe is a bit tight and could do with being replaced with a longer one.which ever side you do first you need to take the bolts out other wise they catch and the chassis lifts as well, leave the other sides bolts in so that the shell cant move side ways and extreme but possibly fall off the chassis.When we did my friends he used a hi-ab crane and as he picked up the shell it swung sideways by about 6" so I recommend leaving in some bolts.put one spacer and bolt in at a time and once through put the nut on just a couple of turns and it will stop you displacing the spacers if you need to lift a bit more.Don't forget to unclip your bumper end caps from the body and once the lift is complete loosen all the steering uj bolts and wiggle the steering wheel abit and then tighten the bolts back up.there are several floor supports that need some blocks and you need to drill two new holes for the top radiator mounts and thats about it. I had mine done for several years now and I used it as my daily drive and have had no problems what so ever and is still running around with its newest owner with the lift still fitted. As for the kit you need 10 spacers + 4 extended tie bolts and you will also need to get some 10 3/8 unf x 6"(for 2" lift)

buster uk · « **Reply #14 on:** July 07, 2007, 15:41:45 »

Thats excelent thankyou.
Now i know what the tie bolts are.
I'll update here with pictures as i do it.
Thanks for taking the time to type all that :D

cheers,
andy

buster uk · « **Reply #15 on:** July 31, 2007, 21:16:18 »

Would it be advisable to change the body mounts when lifting the body ?
I have been looking for a price for some on the internet at the usual places and couldn't find anyone that sells them.

clbarclay · « **Reply #16 on:** July 31, 2007, 22:57:53 »

As in the rubber bushes, when I did mine none of the rubber bushes were actually beyond use, but for the cost I fitten nice new ones anyway. The expensive part is if you want to change the crush tube/washers at over Â£4 a piece thats Â£40 to Â£50 in total, needless to say these I reused.

As time passes rubber hardens so on and old RRC the origional bodymounts will transmit more vibration to the ocupants than a new set of bushs would.

buster uk · « **Reply #17 on:** August 01, 2007, 21:49:16 »

Im making the spacers this week.
What diameter though ? 1 " ?

Wolfie_ · « **Reply #18 on:** August 01, 2007, 22:30:24 »

Mine were about 1.5" Would depend on what you making them out of I'd guess.

Mudlark · « **Reply #19 on:** August 01, 2007, 22:34:51 »

Quote from: "buster uk"

Im making the spacers this week.
What diameter though ? 1 " ?

A minimum of 2" 2.5 is better I'm now making kits for pajeros/shoguns from 60mm U.H.M.W. stock

Range Rovers and Disco soon

clbarclay · « **Reply #20 on:** August 02, 2007, 12:45:10 »

I used 40mm diameter steel stock, which happened to be what I got of college.

I've had no problems with the size. Its bigger than the flat area on the chassis which the bush washers sit anyway.

buster uk · « **Reply #21 on:** August 02, 2007, 17:52:01 »

so 40-60 diameter then.Cheers guys.
I'll update with pictures as i go. :D

buster uk · « **Reply #22 on:** August 13, 2007, 23:03:08 »

got all 10 spacers made up.I went for 2 " long.Also got 2 ,one metre lengths of 3/8 unf threaded bar, 10 normal nuts and 10 nylock nuts.Im going to cut the studding to length and weld the normal nuts one end and then use the nylocks to tighten them up.Im hoping to make the job easier by putting the bar in then weld the nut on top in situe to save having to put the bolts in through the top.

clbarclay · « **Reply #23 on:** August 14, 2007, 16:43:45 »

Sounds awkward to me as some of the mounts (back of the sill mounts) are very difficult to get at from above. You could just feed the made up bolts in from below and have the nylocs on top.

Or when remaking the footwells during the sill rebuild I changed the design sligthly above these mounts so that I could get on them through a hole like the ones at the front of the sill.

barriesheene · « **Reply #24 on:** September 27, 2007, 00:50:53 »

Mudlark !
How are those Ultra High Molecular White polyethelene spacers coming ???

I need a set for the paj and rangie :lol: :lol:

Mudlark · « **Reply #25 on:** September 27, 2007, 09:01:56 »

Quote from: "barriesheene"

Mudlark !
How are those Ultra High Molecular White polyethelene spacers coming ??? I need a set for the paj and rangie :lol: :lol:

See http://xpajunoffroad.com/os_commerce/index.php or I'm at Abingdon this weekend and I'll have some with me

buster uk · « **Reply #26 on:** September 27, 2007, 18:33:07 »

I've fitted all the spacers.Took me and my dad a day to do them all.What a pain in the bot getting the old ones out.3 of them had completely seized.
Just on with doing the other jobs now.
So far then :
10 spacers fitted
Rad upper mounts re-positioned.

still to do :
Make longer tie bolts.
Sort out the fuel filler to fuel tank pipe.
Make 4 2" spacers to go on the rear floor supports.
Make brakets for rear bumper to bring it back up 2"
Modify the front winch bumper some how. :?

Grunter · « **Reply #27 on:** September 27, 2007, 23:25:58 »

just returning to the off road scene after a year or so and looking to do this on my 98 Rangie, I have the benefit of having done this once before, some other things to check are the earth strap, if you look at the pics wolfie posted you can see the earth strap in the pic of the second spacer, on the last one i did this strap was connected to the body a short distance away from the mount and can be pulled off easily without noticing giving headaches later on, might not be an issue on all models but worth a look. also the flexi brake pipes, I found the Kit supplied extended hoses were still a little short so lowered the bracket holding the unions to suit, cheaper than getting another extended set the rear one often gets forgotten. An further essential mod if you dont have side steps or rock sliders is for three "NO STEP" stickers for the plastic sill strip!! :lol:

buster uk · « **Reply #28 on:** September 28, 2007, 14:57:57 »

cheers grunter,i'll take a look for that earth strap.I don't remember seeing one.
Just raised the rear guardian bumper i have up so its back in line.
Need to check and lengthen the brake lines also ,forgot about them :oops:

barriesheene · « **Reply #29 on:** October 11, 2007, 00:20:39 »

How's the lift coming along fella ???? Doing my pajero this weekend (2.5 ") Doing the wife's paj first cos it seem's alot more straight forward and it's already got the bigger tyre's :twisted: Hoping to do my rangie in the next couple of week's tho, ( it'll look on stilt's for a while tho cos it's got the original wheels/tyre's on :lol: )So how is yours coming along ??? Could you do it again now in a weekend ??? or is there just too much to change ? I'll need it straight back on road so I need to know everything that need's to be changed immediatly before hand. Not worried about seat belt mounting point's and bumpers etc cos there is only me using the car ! :roll:

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AuthorTopic: Advice for body lift (Read 4270 times)