AuthorTopic: Rear Dampers  (Read 485 times)

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Offline ScrapyJape

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Rear Dampers
« on: May 08, 2007, 08:52:21 »
Off roading at Biggin yesturday not really a big site but has large ruts into.

anyway I sheered the top of my rear damper (the ring part at the top) off the main shaft..  
I fixed it now with the mig welder but I am  just wondering if anyone else has had this problem before and changed to a differnt make of damper (I got Pro Comp Explorers at the min.) or did i just have a faulty one as i really dont think there is much weld on the other one so i might just take the other side off and weld that up more.

See i did say i would be posting when i broke somthing  :cry:
Never argue with a idiot. As they will only drag you down to there level and beat you with experience!>

Offline Porny

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Rear Dampers
« Reply #1 on: May 08, 2007, 09:16:17 »
Should have sent it back... life gurantee on Procomps...

Per chance are you running a lift kit??

Happens quite often (esp with procomp - but then they are the most popular cheapish damper)  - that with a lift kit and the increased droop it snaps the eye off - as the damper can't cope with the amount of sideways flex.  Often on full doop with a standard pin/eye set up you can see the damper bowing.

Hence why the QT and the Gwyn Lewis kit runs a pin/pin rear damper (and Devon 4x4 does the pivoting mount) as it allows flex in all directions.

The other possible cause is again if you running a lift kit (or even just the longer dampers)... is that you bottomed the damper out (hard - i.e. with a bit of speed) before the axle touched the bump stop.... longer dampers have a longer compressed length - so a standard bump stop is too short.


Ian
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