AuthorTopic: Clutch master cylinder - best way to renew?  (Read 892 times)

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Offline vtrdaz

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Clutch master cylinder - best way to renew?
« on: April 12, 2007, 20:51:37 »
Whats the best way to renew - remove the whole clutch box or just do the cylinder from underneath the bonnet?
And what's the best to use OE or pattern or is there a better make out there?

Cheers

Darren

Offline Jimbo

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Clutch master cylinder - best way to renew?
« Reply #1 on: April 12, 2007, 20:55:34 »
May 2007 LRE covers this in fine detail - do it from above !!
Jim

TDV6 HSE D3
Defender 110 Td5 Hard top, BFG MT's, and no EGR either

http://www.hertfordshire4x4response.net

Offline vtrdaz

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Clutch master cylinder - best way to renew?
« Reply #2 on: April 12, 2007, 20:58:01 »
i can feel a purchase coming on.......... :lol:

Cheers!

Offline Jimbo

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Clutch master cylinder - best way to renew?
« Reply #3 on: April 12, 2007, 21:05:02 »
According to the article, you'll need:

STC100410 (although I guess that might vary depending on age of vehicle), cost £12 + the dreaded, for the master cylinder

they also suggest doing the slave at the same time - FTC5202, £15 + vat !
Jim

TDV6 HSE D3
Defender 110 Td5 Hard top, BFG MT's, and no EGR either

http://www.hertfordshire4x4response.net

Offline extreme90

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Clutch master cylinder - best way to renew?
« Reply #4 on: April 12, 2007, 21:41:52 »
you have remove the master as you aint got enough room between it and the bulkhead, piece of pish to do, took me all of a hour friday night to renew my dribbly one  :roll:

undo the 6 bolts thats secure it in the drivers footwell ( if you got a carpet or rubber matt fitted youll need remove that 1st...i dont )

go inside the engine bay holding the big union with a 5/8th's IIRC undo the little 11mm male union on the pipe

then you can remove the cyl, bit fiddly but it comes out  :roll:

when out, undo the 6 slot head screws on the top and you can then see the plunger,

undo the 13mm head nut on end of shaft

then undo the two M8 bolts (13mm) that secure it....btw these are bolts and not studs like i thought  :oops:  so you need hold the end inside aswel  :oops:

fitting is opposite to this  :roll:

any probs, giv us a shout

dan
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Offline Litch

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Clutch master cylinder - best way to renew?
« Reply #5 on: April 13, 2007, 18:18:23 »
I have always advocated replacing both cylinders at the same time for the very reasons they give in the article.
I once suffered slave cylinder failure only a week after replacing the master cylinder so since then I have replaced both cylinders and the flexi-hose at the same time.
ONE LIFE, GET IT!

Offline broken110

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Clutch master cylinder - best way to renew?
« Reply #6 on: April 13, 2007, 19:48:12 »
I have just replaced both cylinders at the costs mentioned above, the most difficult part was getting the old slave cylinder off due to access for the bolt heads.

However I still have a problem in that the pedal moves almost to the floor before the clutch disengages, which was the problem in the first place. When I looked at the slave -  it was clearly shot and the master was leaking too.

I have bled the system and have used Unipart 4 dot fluid. The pedal height is correctly adjusted but uit still feels like the clutch is only just disengaging.  The clutch itself should be ok - it has only done about 25K.

Any ideas?

 






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