AuthorTopic: fitting bulkhead repair panels  (Read 1467 times)

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Offline windowlicker

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fitting bulkhead repair panels
« on: March 26, 2007, 19:17:47 »
my brother in laws 90 is rotten inbetween the front door hinges what i would like to know is how much of a job it is to fit a pair of repair panels like the ones paddock sell

cheers
kev

Offline natmil

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bulkhead repair panels
« Reply #1 on: March 26, 2007, 23:02:58 »
Just done this, and a lot of people tried to advise that bulkhead replacement is a better option- maybe they are right but I am happy with mine. If there are just small holes visible it may be worthwhile ie you have good footwells and centre panels. I could have got away short term with a bit of filler but decided to do it properly

Bear in mind you need to remove the roof/windscreen/doors and bonnet as a minimum.

 Other than that i found it fairly straightforward. You need to be careful aligning panels and drilling the windscreen mount holes right (which I found a bit tricky)

Also get a set of stainless door hinge bolts/retaining nuts and some copper grease as I had to drill a stubborn one and use air impact tools on the rest.

Also for about half the price of paddocks try

www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk

(not affiliated - just a happy customer)

Offline Litch

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fitting bulkhead repair panels
« Reply #2 on: March 27, 2007, 14:15:44 »
I'm with the replacement bulkhead brigade and the first thing I would say is have a REALLY good poke around and find out exactly how much rot is in there as believe me, for all you can see it will be a lot worse when you start cutting it about. Ignoring the rot will not make it go away and you are kidding no-one but yourself (and possibly the MOT inspector).

Apart from the obvious places like the top corners that you have already identified you also need to inspect the top-rail and to do this you have to remove the windscreen-frame (easy job). After this check the pillars & footwells and also the double-skinned section below the bonnet-line, as long as you are poking/scapping HARD you will get a genuine impression of the overall bulkhead condition.
Having discovered as much rot as you can (and like I said before, you will never find it all as they rot from the inside out) you have to decide if repair (and all the work that entails) is better than replacement with a nice new unit (about £250 + painting and sunderies) and a long weekends work. For welded repairs I think all repair panels are available cheaply enough apart from the top-rail and also the box-section which forms the main centre section. Obviously when welding quality of finish depends on the amount of skill/time/money you have whereas at least with a new bulkhead replacement is DIY & relitively unskilled nuts & bolts work.
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Offline windowlicker

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fitting bulkhead repair panels
« Reply #3 on: March 27, 2007, 17:01:54 »
thanks lads and cheers for the link nutmil im all up for saving a few quid but can you tell me if these panels go all the way down to the sill as they appear to only have the holes for one hinge?

cheers
kev

Offline Litch

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fitting bulkhead repair panels
« Reply #4 on: March 27, 2007, 18:27:50 »
They only cover the top corner, if the pillar has gone then you need those as well as they are a separate (and more expensive) item.
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Offline windowlicker

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fitting bulkhead repair panels
« Reply #5 on: March 27, 2007, 18:46:57 »
lmao i feel like a right numpty now
the mechanic where i work used to work on landrovers and told me that i need the bulkhead repair panels as they are the door post aswell but after reading your reply and doing a quick search i found the buts i want so thank god you replied or else i would of ended up with the wrong bits :oops:

 






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