Topic: Changing wheel bearings (Read 5078 times)

narked · « **on:** February 03, 2007, 12:47:10 »

Got loose bearings on the front of the Disco, and figure rather than just trying to tighten them up and see if that cures it, I may as well replace them while I'm at it. Just wondered exactly what parts I need, and how much of a job it is to do?

Cheers,
Matt

drmike · « **Reply #1 on:** February 03, 2007, 13:04:36 »

I'd just tighten them up and I do until they are actually shot.

It's not hard to change them though. In my usual helpful way I can't recall the details but you'll need to move the caliper which on the front means messing with bolts on the top of the swivel which is a real PITA.

I always try adjusting first - it's free!

Mike

landroverkeith · « **Reply #2 on:** February 03, 2007, 13:52:44 »

yer id agree fairly easy even i did 2 mind u buy a proper hub spanner the cheap thing i got broke and i lost 3 " of knuckle....

i bought a impact socket to do it huge bit of metal and 30 quid but it did the job

floyd fan · « **Reply #3 on:** February 03, 2007, 16:38:55 »

Done one of mine last weekend. Fifteen quid for the parts, easy job but as said try tightening firtst.

AbyssDJ · « **Reply #4 on:** February 03, 2007, 16:59:34 »

we replaced one of ours in a farm shop carpark in the middle of nowhere, in the dark, in the cold, with the help of derbysred ;)

winchman · « **Reply #5 on:** February 03, 2007, 20:05:28 »

What size socket do you need?

floyd fan · « **Reply #6 on:** February 03, 2007, 20:24:49 »

52mm.

drmike · « **Reply #7 on:** February 03, 2007, 20:29:33 »

And for what it's worth I didn't buy an expensive impact socket but the 6 quid pressed steel version. That was 5 years and probably a dozen bearings ago - I seem to have replaced all the bearings on all my trucks and I've had 3 trucks so far!

You don't need to tighten them up much and if they are siezed on then start them off with a chisel.

Mike

narked · « **Reply #8 on:** February 16, 2007, 15:02:06 »

They definately need replacing. Ordered the new bearings, and was going to have a look at what was involved yesterday, but got as far as trying to undo the bolts on the driving member. Couldn't get them undone. Hadn't taken the caliper off at this point, as I was just seeing how things came apart. Only way I could think of to enable me to get the leverage on them would be to get someone to apply the brakes, but doing it according to the LR workshop manual and the Haynes manual, you'd already have the caliper off by this stage. So what's the trick?

Bulli · « **Reply #9 on:** February 16, 2007, 16:14:13 »

if you broke the pressed steel one i would suggest you were overtightening them, bearings really dont like it!

Range Rover Blues · « **Reply #10 on:** February 16, 2007, 16:52:52 »

SOmeone say drive member? I take it you have ABS then. If so then once you have rebuilt the hub you need to set the endfloat of the driveshaft through the drive member. Shims are Ã‚Â£10 a pack, one size each pack and Paddocks don't stock them for that reason, so I was told.

narked · « **Reply #11 on:** February 17, 2007, 01:00:38 »

Well that's what it's referred to as in the Haynes manual and the LR manual. 5 bolts holding it in place.

Range Rover Blues · « **Reply #12 on:** February 17, 2007, 01:49:40 »

Yes driving member is the correct name (in LR speak) but if you have the ABS axles then the CV joint sticks out through the middle and is covered by a rubber cap, this must be disconnected first, circlip under said cap. If the end of the axle is just a mushroom and you don't have ABS axles then it's much much easier, but I think on a 300 series it's more likely to be the later style of hub, so more work.

narked · « **Reply #13 on:** February 17, 2007, 10:39:40 »

Don't think I've got ABS, but I do have the rubber dust cap, with the circlip and washer.

So what's the trick to getting those bolts undone then? I couldn't get any leverage on 'em without the hub spinning.

Xtremeteam · « **Reply #14 on:** February 17, 2007, 10:56:11 »

air gun

or put a lever through the wheel studs onto the deck & unscrew them

Mace · « **Reply #15 on:** February 17, 2007, 20:26:55 »

Surely the simplest way is to do the drive member bolts 1st BEFORE you jack it up and take the wheel off. You've got to crack the wheel nuts 1st so why not do the drive member bolts at the same time ?

Mace · « **Reply #16 on:** February 17, 2007, 20:28:36 »

Take that back, just noticed you've got RRC alloys :roll:

Leslie Henson · « **Reply #17 on:** February 17, 2007, 22:12:05 »

300TDi CSW front wheel bearing. Pretty much the exact same thing.

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=8009

Les.

narked · « **Reply #18 on:** February 18, 2007, 00:46:13 »

Ta very much! Shall make use of that article!

narked · « **Reply #19 on:** February 18, 2007, 00:56:39 »

Quote from: "Mace"

Take that back, just noticed you've got RRC alloys :roll:

Yup. I am however thinking of scrapping them for some nice modulars. That'll be as soon as I have the funds to buy myself a set of 5 with some MTs!

Range Rover Blues · « **Reply #20 on:** February 18, 2007, 01:36:52 »

Personally I just rely on the difflock to hold the hub stationary whilst I undo the 5 bolts. Mine is viscous but I'm sure if you stick the manual one in it will work (provided you only do one wheel at a time

).

narked · « **Reply #21 on:** February 18, 2007, 10:27:41 »

*slaps self about the head*

Seems so obvious when someone else says it :P

narked · « **Reply #22 on:** February 18, 2007, 10:55:02 »

Found a hub nut box spanner on eBay, and just wondering if it's the right one as it's size is AF, rather than metric?

Quote

Suitable for virtually all Land-Rover products from 1948 to 1998.

For non-LR use, dimension is 2 1/16" AF.

Having difficulty finding anyone locally who's got a 52mm socket or box spanner! And nowhere local stocks em either.

Range Rover Blues · « **Reply #23 on:** February 20, 2007, 16:54:32 »

Box spanners available at Paddocks but I've newver found the open spanner shown in the manual, it looks like a viscous fan spanner.

narked · « **Reply #24 on:** February 22, 2007, 16:48:32 »

Well, I had a quick look at 'em on monday. That loose that I didn't need anything other than my hands to undo the locknuts :shock:

Took it into my preferred local garage the other day. Rang 'em today to see when they'd have it ready, to be told the bearings have made a mess of the stub axle and hub on at least one side, possibly both when they strip the other side to take a look :(

Still, on the plus side, should have it back by Monday, maybe Saturday if the bits arrive tomorrow.

freeagent · « **Reply #25 on:** February 22, 2007, 18:37:35 »

if you are buying hub seals, Don't buy a cheap pattern part, genuine ones are made by courtico, they can be found for less then Ã‚Â£3 each...

the last B***part ones i had didn't even fit properly.

same with wheel bearings, you want Timken (same as genuine parts) or FAG bearings, not nasty chinese ones...

Timken bearings are about Ã‚Â£7.50 each, or Ã‚Â£15 per wheel..

use a good grease aswell... the blue waterproof stuff is pretty good, I buy JCB stuff from a local farmer, for about Ã‚Â£2 per tube...

wheel bearings are easy to change, but a messy and slightly annoying job, so don't risk doing ti again before you have to by using cheap crap.

Range Rover Blues · « **Reply #26 on:** February 24, 2007, 11:49:45 »

I'd echo that. Saving Ã‚Â£6 per wheel on bearings barely covers the cost of the grease/selas etc let alone the time you waste doing the job twice.

floyd fan · « **Reply #27 on:** February 24, 2007, 12:02:33 »

When you remove the two bolts that hold the brake pipe bracket in place all the oil from your swivel will pour out.

1. Make sure you have a tray underneath to catch the oil.
2. Make sure you have some ep90 to refill it.
3. Ask me how I know :oops: .

Range Rover Blues · « **Reply #28 on:** February 24, 2007, 12:09:24 »

Oh yes, I don't need to ask.

I put an axle stand under the axle casing then put my troley jack under the swivel (knuckle) to keep the swivel oil seal in contact with the swivel. i find it you let them leak, they keep leaking.

narked · « **Reply #29 on:** February 25, 2007, 12:08:28 »

Quote from: "Jonboy"

When you remove the two bolts that hold the brake pipe bracket in place all the oil from your swivel will pour out.

1. Make sure you have a tray underneath to catch the oil.
2. Make sure you have some ep90 to refill it.
3. Ask me how I know :oops: .

And if it's windy, it goes *everywhere*.

Go on, ask me how I know...

Takes a while to clean EP90 off the road....

News:

AuthorTopic: Changing wheel bearings (Read 5078 times)

AbyssDJ