Vehicle & Technical > Defender

Is galvanised right route?

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extreme90:
if you got a mind like me then dont get a galvo chassis im glad i didnt when i built mine, i change me mind that often  :wink:
dan

Muddy:
I would defo get a galv chassis if i rebuilt as its not that much more, its so much better on the inside and rear cross member AND even if it does scrape off some galv the metal there will not rust as the galv around the bare metal is more reactive so any salt etc will wheather that before the chassis metal so basicly your chassis will be safe. Plus it will make you motor a lot more attractive to any potential buyer if it is galvenised. You will never have to worry about replacing your x member or out riggers again and for the minimal extra cost i think you would have to be stupid not to go galv-you can always grind off weld to the outside and waxoil/galvafrol/paint over.... but inside it will always be well protected which is where a lot of the rot occurs, while your at it get your bulkhead done and any other possible bit of steel you can find, if anything 'mock up' any changes you plan on a bare chassis and then send i for galving and likewise with the bulkhead and seatbox ect ect... Its fit and forget.

Thebiggreenthing a nice looking motor you have their mate! but can i ask exactly what changes you have made to the chassis? maybe if we can see what/how you and potentialy anyone else has modified their chassis then we can design the 'ultimate' chassis to mock up before galvenising.

Cheers, Will.

btw merry xmas everyone :D

mark.yellow.series.3:
as above, you can always grind off the galv for welding and your still better off then a bare chassis.

Range Rover Blues:
I think you are confucing Galv with tin plate.  The whole point of galvanising (zinc plating) as that the zinc is a sacrificial anode to the steel, so a fairly small scratch is still protected by the electrolitic effect even if the passive layer is scrubbed away.  Yes it's sensible to protect cut and drilled edges with cold galvanising paint but it's not essential.  It's more important that you aloow the zinc plating to passivate naturally, in truth you need to buy the chassis then ignore it for a year untill it turns dark grey, at this point it has fully passivated and is better protected.

Malcy:
Ah. Don't think I can wait a year. The MOT man is not likely to be impressed with the current composition of my chassis unfortunately. Presumably though, buying a new galvanised chassis is still going to be better than a non-galvanised one even if it gets put pretty immediately into use?

Malcy

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