Vehicle & Technical > Defender

Is galvanised right route?

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extreme90:

--- Quote from: "Muddy" ---I would defo get a galv chassis if i rebuilt as its not that much more, its so much better on the inside and rear cross member AND even if it does scrape off some galv the metal there will not rust as the galv around the bare metal is more reactive so any salt etc will wheather that before the chassis metal so basicly your chassis will be safe. Plus it will make you motor a lot more attractive to any potential buyer if it is galvenised. You will never have to worry about replacing your x member or out riggers again and for the minimal extra cost i think you would have to be stupid not to go galv-you can always grind off weld to the outside and waxoil/galvafrol/paint over.... but inside it will always be well protected which is where a lot of the rot occurs, while your at it get your bulkhead done and any other possible bit of steel you can find, if anything 'mock up' any changes you plan on a bare chassis and then send i for galving and likewise with the bulkhead and seatbox ect ect... Its fit and forget.

Thebiggreenthing a nice looking motor you have their mate! but can i ask exactly what changes you have made to the chassis? maybe if we can see what/how you and potentialy anyone else has modified their chassis then we can design the 'ultimate' chassis to mock up before galvenising.

Cheers, Will.

btw merry xmas everyone :D
--- End quote ---


chears for that,
well when i 1st built it, i didnt like the rear winch crossmembers or trays, so i deciding on sticking the huskey ontop of the rear bed and weld a mount frame underneath the tub, but a year on and i was p***** off with the lack of room in the back, not being able freespool it cos the waffles were in the way, and also 35inch simex are damn heavy :shock:
so out with the crossmember in with the winch tray  :roll:
o another thing was origionaly a h/t i liked them at the time and had a full s/d cage  :roll:  changed me mind again and had to grind of all old mountings and weld new ones in
theres a few other minor things aswel
but for my next project i will have 1 design and not change it, so that will be galvo dont have to drill holes in chassis every 5 inch then to let the s*** out  :wink:
dan

Dave B:
Gally chassis are also made of heavier gauge steel so they don't warp in the hot tank.  Got to be worth it just for that.

As to scrapes and scratches, well, paint also suffers of course.  So long as there is some zink remaining in the immediate area of the scratch, it wont rust significantly.  The only thing you have to think hard about, is if any welding (modifications) need doing after it's galvanised.  The surrounding area will have the zink burnt off, so you'll need to re-proof it in the usual way.  Plus the fumes are deadly.

That beast on the left has one of Arrow's (now Designa Chassis) earlier series on coils gally frame under it, worth every penny!  The extra stiffnes means the roof doenst leak anywhere near as much as it used to on the old series frame!...  Everything fitted just fine too.

Cheers.

Dave B.

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