Vehicle & Technical > Range Rover
90 RRC Steering query
kjj0506:
I wil check out the Pro Comps.
I wondered about the wheelbase issue. I wil look around for some good arms as well as a bar and disconnects that hopefully don't rattle and are safe.
Are you saying I should have a stiffer shock for the back end? I seldom carry more that a little camping gear but may on occasion. Is the leveller inop now since the lift? Is it better to remove it in your opinion? I have seen some debates on that issue.
If it's a factor I have considered adding the rubberized upper and lower spring isolators to damp squeeks and such as well.
I am getting ready to do the brakes in whole. New rotors and extended stainless lines as well.
I have not addressed the prop shafts yet. They are quiet and seem ok but am open to recommendations as I know I am pushing their intended limits.
Range Rover Blues:
The front prop UJ is a favourite to go shortly after a lift, at the 'box end as it will now be working harder.
Once you castor correct you create another problem in that UJs need to work in pairs at roughly matched angles so as not to creates pulsing in the driveshaft. When you cator correct the front end you straighten out one UJ and the other ('box end) is working at a bigger angle becauseof the lift. Some epople find the noise too much, it can depend on wear in other parts of the translission though.
New brakes, always a nice thing to have :D
I'd go Procomp all round, same performance so a nicer balance. Fit a matched set of srpings too, typically 25% uprated front and 35% rear takes into account the self leveler and helps with body roll, unless you bolt on lots of kit you don't need much stiffer. When new you'll think they are too stiff, work them in and you'll be happier.
All the level is doing now is stopping your axle hanging on the brake lines, it won't effect articlulation as the centre of the axle doesn't move that much, but it's weight you don't need.
Try to get the QT arms or similar, made in the UK though so I don't know what's on offer over there. They are castor corrected, the chassi bush pin is also corrected and they are a tad longer to re-establish the wheel base which help with handling and stability.
Not many people bother with rubber spring mounts, one end is clamped down at the back and folks often clamp the front one too, then fit location cones to the other end and allow it to leave the seat on extreme axle articulation. Yes they bang and scrape.
Range Rover Blues:
Oh, if you don't disconnect the sway bars you may not get the springs out of their seats but the rear bar will now flip over at the ends unless you space the bushes away from the chassis or diconnect both ends ( I tried just one end but it kept hitting the floor that way).
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