Vehicle & Technical > Range Rover

90 RRC Steering query

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kjj0506:
I have a slight amount of lift and slightly over size tires ( 1 1/2" over stock OME springs ( and steering damper ) with self machined 1 1/4 billet spacers w/ 30" tall Dunlops) and have a few steering issues ....

Pump and hoses are leaky and noisey - would like to have stainless braided lines made to assure no leaks but am curious if anyone has info on the pump.... should I rebuild it ? replace ? aftermarket ? Retrofit?

Wander - it's pretty darty on rutted highways and seems to steer very loose on turn in. I have adjusted the box some and it improved a bit . It has all new rod ends and is aligned. Will camber adjustment bushings help or should I do arms ? Is the box shot or is it ONLY the camber?

I also have over extended my shocks and plan on lowering the top mounts in the rear but am curious if any one has pics of resized front towers. I want to shorten them about 3 inches or so...

Thanx in advance for any/all info

clbarclay:
I suspect you have reduced your castor angle too much. 2" lift is the approximate limit (it can varry from one vehicle to the next) before correction is needed.

As for front turrets, a friend just cut the top of his turrets and welded on a pice of 5mm plate to the top of each with a hole in the middle at the desired hight.

Range Rover Blues:
It's the castor and if you tighten the steeing system up too much the wandering will get worse.  I prefer castor corrected arms to bushes but if you can't afford the arms then bushes are better than nowt.

Be careful lowering the damper mounts, if yo have longer dampers then you needn't mess with the mouonts.  A plus 2" damper will be close to fully closed when the axle is on the bump stops and you won't get massive articulation on the front end anyway with a standard set-up.

kjj0506:
So bushes will help for now and save up for the arms is what I'm hearing? What about those cranked arms? I have fabbing skills and was wonderring if there is any integrity in these bent arms.

As far as the shocks... I do a lot of highway and commuting as wel as exploring and playingg off road so a compliant , nicely articulate suspension wihh a good ride is what I'm after. I would rather have a good comprimise than a tippy rig that articulates like crazy. Any recommendations on longer shocks that will give me that?

Or should I consider a sway bar with disconnects?

Range Rover Blues:
disconnects for the sway bars are a good idea if you can put it into practice, a lot of the atempts I've seen are almost dangerous, but watch this space.

I like Pro Comp dampers, they come in increments of 1" and they are made your side of the pond.

Fit the bushes then, you'll be glad you did.  Save up for fabrcated arms, the weight saving helps a little with the handling plus they restore the wheelbase, bending the original forged arm shortens it even more and I don't like the idea of heating and bending such a big forging on a safety critical item.

A good damper will help control the car on road but at low off-road speeds won't get in the way, a suple suspension, slightly uprated will help the on-road handling.  Remember the back end will need to be a fair bit stiffer because the self-level will no longer work.  You can take it off if you like.

Have you extended the brake flexis yet?

Oh and when you castor correct, watch out for the front prop/diff rumbling.

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