Vehicle & Technical > Defender

110 Front Diff Casing

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LAND-ROVER-PIMP:
Thanks, not too bad then! Don't think it's cracked, more of a crease! Sailed through the M.O.T yesterday!  :D  

Going to check level on diff and if it's still not lost any fluid i'll patch the crease up with some super steel proxy till I can get round to it. See if I can cause any more damage! LOL.

Porny:

--- Quote from: "LAND-ROVER-PIMP" ---: How much for the casing Ian if it comes to it?
--- End quote ---


I'm feeling lazy... so you could have the whole axle (inc diff etc etc) for £55ono if you collect.  Saves me striping it!!


Ian

Lee_D:
When I pulled the front DIff on the 101 I just removed the swivel seals and then pulled the swivel pins, slid the half shafts off the diff and proped the hubs up on axles stands with the half shafts and gizmology still intact.

Can this be done on the 90 / 110 , cant think of why not and saves faffing with the bearings and calipers too.

Lee D

Dave B:

--- Quote ---When I pulled the front DIff on the 101 I just removed the swivel seals and then pulled the swivel pins, slid the half shafts off the diff and proped the hubs up on axles stands with the half shafts and gizmology still intact.

Can this be done on the 90 / 110 , cant think of why not and saves faffing with the bearings and calipers too.

Lee D
--- End quote ---


Yes you can, in fact it's a bit easier, as the entire swivel housing is bolted to the rest of the axle on a 110, unlike welded as on a 101 (at least the few I've seen)  Also, the entire diff assembly is bolt in with it's bearings and pinion, so the whole lot comes out as one, unlike the Salisbury where you have to "gently" stretch the housing to release the blasted thing, and then the pinion stays in there!....

You'll need to be a little bit creative with the replacement gaskets (swivel to axle case) though, as unless you completely remove the hub/swivel assemblies with half shaft, you'll need to cut them to get past the half shafts.  With care, it's OK with some sealant too.

Clean it all where the joins are, and all the surrounding places before you start to take it apart, it saves a lot of time later....

I'd agree, that you need to remove the entire diff assembly, cleanup the inside, stuff some clean rag into the axle tubes where they meet the diff, cut the old pan off, do the repair (keep a fire extinguisher near by, welding, and oil etc!) Then clean it all up again, remove the rag plug's, check and clean, re-asemble with new gaskets etc.  Not forgetting to re-fill with new EP-90.  Replace that after a few hundred miles, as no doubt, there will still be some dirt/grit hiding somewhere it will flush out during use....

Enjoy!...

Dave B.

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