Vehicle & Technical > Range Rover

Hub bearings

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zulublue:
I have just replaced all my disc's and pads on my 82 RRC, when removing the hubs I noticed the inner retaining nut was about finger tight, when I refitted it, I tightened it up and tapped it round with a hammer and screwdriver ( I know not the best, but tools to hand) I have taken her out for the first time today, and she felt a bit sluggish, like something was holding her back (I do know the carbs need setting up and maybe running rich) once I had stopped there was a slight burning smell, thought it maybe the hubs over heating or the brakes stuck on a bit, I put her in to neutral to see if I could move her and she rolled OK.

Any ideas anyone.

Mark.

P.S. 2" lift has also been fitted, also notice a whining noise.

clbarclay:
The inner hub nut should not be done up tight, you adjust the inner nut so that the hub has a small amount of float and then do up the outer nut tight to stop the inner from moving.

To do it properly you need a DTI (dial test indicator), but it can be done by feel/eye if not avalible.


IIRC the workshop manual gives a routh guide, do the inner up tight (not B tight or BF tight) and then back it off a fraction of a turn. I don't have the manual to hand at the moment (I'm having a cup of tea) so i can't tell you what that fraction is at the moment.

ChrisW:
I normally tighten the inner hub nut up as tight as I can until I can't turn the hub anymore then back it off 90deg and do it up hand tight, put the lock washer on, run the outer nut up to the washer and use it to hold the washer in place to knock one edge over the inner nut to hold it, then do the outer nut up as tight as I can and knock the washer over onto the outer locknut.

zulublue:
Thanks Both, Ill do it tomorrow, hope it cures the issue, although all the hubs were spinning fine when I did them, but I suppose under pressure it may change.

Eeyore:
What happens is this - the bearing get torqued up properly and over time the bearings wear, making the inner nut seem slack. This is normal and is why we have to check our wheel bearing regularly.

Whats probably happened now is that you've roasted your bearing by running it too tight (and man, they will get hot enough to melt the grease). The free rotation may well be down to excessive wear. I'll bet you 10 to 1 that if you lift the wheel and give it a tug, there's play in the bearing.

The best way I've found to torque a hubnut is to do it all with the wheel lifted and the wheel on. Tighten the inner nut, but not too tight as it'll damage the bearings. When it's getting close to being tight try spinning the wheel - it should spin freely. Then grab the tyre and give it a darn good wobble. If there's any movement then the bearing isn't tight enough. There should be no movement when you wobble the tyre, but the wheel should still spin nicely. The addage of uptight then back off an 1/8th of a turn can get you somewhere near.

Don't beat the nut up tight and don't use power tools to do it up, particularly impact guns.

When you're happy with the inner nut, apply the lock washer and the outer nut. Do this up relatively tight. Then check you're bearing for spin and wobble again. If it all feels good, fold the tabs over on the lock washer.

The whole adjustment process shouldn't take more than 5 - 10 minutes a wheel (I can do 4 in less than 20). The longest job is taking off and refitting the drive members! I usually use a simple 52mm box spanner with a 3/8th", 500mm extension as a tommy bar. I do have a 52mm impact socket, but that only comes out if the shaft ends are short enough and if the outer nut has corroded onto the lock washer (a common problem if you use monkey-metal lock washers).

Check them bearings though, just in case.

HTH

cheers
 8)
Eeyore

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