Vehicle & Technical > Range Rover

Hub bearings

<< < (2/5) > >>

zulublue:
Thanks will do. Only went 2 miles so hope there ok, touched the half shaft cap when I got back the rears were cool and the fronts were slightly warm.

Fingers crossed

Budgie:
If you find you've got play in them again then before you tighten them again, remember to pack some more grease in the bearings cos the if the grease that was in there has melted then it won't be of much use now.  :wink:

ChrisW:
I would offer to pop over and give you a hand but time doesn't seem to be on my side at the moment  :roll:

zulublue:
All done all fine, it was the near side front calliper sticking a little bit, now sorted.

And I am now the proud owner of a MOT certificate.

Range Rover Blues:
Just for the record, you don't need a DTi to check endfloat, in fact it's a PITA simply because if you fit new seals the wiper on the inner seal takes up the endfloat.  Fit the first nut and tighten to about 18 lb/ft then slacken, finger tighten then back off about 2 flats.  Losely fit the washer and second nut, spin it up to take up any backlash int he threads.  Lever against the washer onto the hub to force the hub back against the backlash.  Use a feeler guage between the first nut and outer bearing to measure the backlash.  Easy :)

The tighten it up/back off 2 flats is only accurate for new bearings :!:

And anyway, when the intergral CV/drivemember type axle was introduced (think ABS axle) the endfloat was drastically reduced, onlder axles can be set to the later endfloat and the only noticeable difference is the lack of brake pedal travel.

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page

Go to full version