Vehicle & Technical > Defender

Changing a clutch

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Guy90:
Need to replace the clutch on the 90 (300TDI). Any tips on how to do it?

Thanks

Dave:
Neil thorne is your man he helped with mine. We put a big trolley jack under the gearbox remove all the bolts holding the the thing up there remove the props and from the top remove the gear stick cover, undo the reverse cables. When its all lose you can roll the jack back giving enough room to replace the clutch.
 Be warned the gearbox's are very heavy.

In order we did it.
1 gear stick tunnel undo cables and remove sticks
2 props off
3 place a big trolley under the box.
4 all bolts holding the boxs up there.
5 slide back and do the clutch.

 If you are not sure ask Neil he is now F1 standard at changing clutch's.
Guy putting a gearbox in mine saturday if you need some practice  :wink:

barmiebrumie:
That sound's about right as we just done one in my Disco, we took the cross member off as is was to tight on the chassis, strapped the box to the jack as well, also only pulled the box back about 9 inches, just enough room to get your hand in there to put the new clutch in,

We put a new fork/arm in aswell just to be on the safe side,


good luck with it.


John.

Porny:
I'm doing the one on my 90 at the moment... would have been finished but I was away all weekend.
I'd rather not struggle lying on my back, so I just lift the gearbox out complete.

On mine (and all the other Defenders I've done):

Remove the seats, seat box, transmission tunnel and floor panels. (Mr Grinder and Mr Drill are always handy!!)

Remove the front and rear Propshafts

Remove the gear stick

Remove the clutch slave cylinder – tuck up out of the way (no need to disconnect the pipe work – otherwise you’d need to bleed the clutch too!!)

Put a jack or an axle stand under the front of the engine (or wedge with a piece of wood) as when the gearbox is removed, the engine will tilt forward.  (unlike any pre 300Tdi engine that tips backwards when the gearbox is removed - down to engine mount position)

Then loosen all of the flywheel housing/bellhousing bolts

Loosen the gearbox mounts

Then attach and engine crane to the gear box, undo all the remaining bolts and lift out through the passenger door.
This then gives you loads of room to replace the clutch etc.


I'd also advice changing you crankshaft rear seal, as these have a habit of going on 300Tdi... all this means is you need to remove the flywheel too.  I wouldn't bother with a Britpart or any other aftermarket seal though, a genuine part one is only slightly more expensive (i.e. by about a fiver) make sure you order the gasket too (or just use some proper RTV sealant). IMHO makes sense to do it whilst everything is apart.

You may also find it worthwhile to get a new set of gearbox mounts, as these have a habit of breaking… again genuine part ones aren’t that much.

Clutch wise…. Personally I’d upgrade to a 130” spec clutch and drive plate.  Is a straight swap and is more HD than a standard one….

In the end I went for an AP clutch, which also has a cush drive (an extra set of springs), unlike the Valeo one I took out.  Replace the release bearing at the same time! (Should come with the clutch kit)… I’d also get a new spigot bush.

Whilst it’s apart, I’d also replace the clutch operating fork (I went for a genuine one again)… as these have a habit of piercing.  I would also weld a washer on the pivot point to make sure it can never brake/pierce.

Make sure you also get a new plastic clip that secures the release bearing to the operating arm.

Then just a case of putting it all back together…


I know that this can be done by just sliding the gearbox back, but if you're not in a rush, and are going to replace all the other bits at the same time, I find it much easier just to lift the gearbox out (can’t do this on a Disco or a Range Rover though!!)


Ian

wing nut:
it doesnt take as long as a disco :lol:

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