Changing Clutch on Series 3

[Topple]

Anyone got any tips for changing a clutch on a series 3.

Thanks

Paul

[hobbit]

Fairly straight forward, once you have the floor and tunnel lifted from the inside, you can either move the engine or the gearbox, depending on what facilities you have

Good luck

Kev

[sleeper88]

Hi I am new to this forum, but I have changed a clutch on a series 3

You need to remove the floor and the transmission tunnel
take off the cluctch slave cylinder, and both propshafts disconnect the handbreak linkage and if you have an over drive that needs to come off as well unless your other job is a Gynocologist, prop the back of the engine with a small piece of wood about 20mm thick between the main cross member and the flywheel housing on the back of the engine,  remove the dozen or so nuts on the bell housing and the 4 bolts that connect the gearbox rubber mounts to the gearbox cross member.

If I havent forgotten anything you should now be able to pull the gear box backwards and just have enough room to get to the clutch
I centerd my clutch with an old motorcycle spark plug spanner wraped in tape to give a snug fit
 
its probably worth replacing the clutch relase baring while you can see it as they are only about  Ã‚£10  and you wont want to repeat the proceess any time soon.

When I did my clutch it took a whole day but I was working alone and foolishly left the overdrive on so only had about 3 inches to work in

Hope this helps, and I am sure if I have missed some thing someone else here will update the post

[nzrover]

Best tool for levering the gearbox backwards and forwards with is a spade.  :D

[Topple]

Hi

Thanks all for the advise.

Changed the clutch yesterday without a problem.

Though it was going to be a nightmare job, but was straight forward. I built a cradle on a trolly to support the gearbox, so I could slide it off then back on again - worked a treat.

I did buy an alignment tool in the end, which I had to modify as the shaft was too long as I only moved the gearbox back about 5 inches, until the handbrake drum hit the cross member.

I also replaced the thrust bearing - looked like it was knackered, if not very nearly.

Everything inside was a nice muddy brown colour,  the remains of my last outing to farley quarry when I got stuck in some deep water (pics on www.hollyrise.com). I had the wading plug in, but that isn't much use then theres a wapping big hole in the top of the housing where the water can get in.  - ok prehaps I was well over the advised recommened wading depth !!

[sleeper88]

Glad you managed to get the cluch done.

I have just taken the floor out of my one as the release baring has colapsed due to getting muddy water over the front wings at woodlands in Kent  last week
My starter motor has also quit  its probably full of mud as well

There should be a plate over that wapping great hole in the top of the flywheeel housing and the same is true where the gear leaver mounts onto the bell housing

Dave

[Topple]

Think next time I do some deep wading I'll blank off the holes with duck tape as a temporary measure.

I had similar problems with the starter motor last year, took it all apart and gave it a good clean, it's been ok since.

Paul