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Help bearing problem **NOW WORSE**

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Mace:
It seems we all use a different method. Always remove the brake pads when adjusting the bearings.

Mine is 1st nut as tight as you can till the bearing starts to bind,
back off and re-torque to 45 lbs, spin the hub,
back off one-flat on the nut spanner and re-torque to 15 lbs,
fit the road wheel and check for freeplay and smooth running of the bearing,
Fit the lock-tab and the 2nd nut hand tight, check play again,
knock-over the lock-tab inwards, torque outer nut to 30 lbs,
knock-over the lock-tab outwards and do a final check,
remove wheel, refit brake pads and refit flange and gasket, refit wheel.

I use a bar with a 1/2" sliding drive on it through the hole in the hub spanner, to this I attach a 15mm socket (in reverse) and then the torque wrench, mine is the old bendy lbs/ft torque wrench and it works for me. I found using a torque wrench is the only way to know exactly how tight your bearings are and once you've found the right figure it works every time, new or old bearings.

barmiebrumie:
New bearing arrive in the post today :lol: , outer seal missing :twisted: ,
ordered set for the other side as & new disc's/pads while in there, will get both bearing's pressed out & new one fitted to hu's on monday/tuesday here at work, then might start & shout up for some help in the tightening process  :wink: ,


Thanks for the advice,  John.

barmiebrumie:
Just took the other side apart & found more problems, Have a l;ook at the pic's, took the stub axle apart on th o/s as it seemed to be a bit ''wobberly'' I'm not sure but i think it's the little bearings in the top & bottom,

1) do the just tap out
2) there is some sort of flange thinky on the half shaft that seems worn, shoud I replace that while it's out & if so what's it's proper name?,

30 Any body who can pop over just to say ''undo that, change that & stick one of those in'' please DO as it's better than me trying to type all my questions,

FREE  CUP OF TEA or A BEER & A BUTTY

Thanks in advance  John  07930 367 659.

Range Rover Blues:
Oh cr4p that looks bad mate.

I'd pop over, no sweat but it's a tad far.

The little bronze thingy is supporting the halhshaft, definitely replace it, it's important.  If the half shaft journal is scored you need to swap that as well.

If the swivel bearings are loose you can adjust them by removing the shims under the head of the top swivel pin, it's called swivel preload so check your manual.  About 1 to 1.5 kg pull on the back steering arm to keep the swivel moving once it starts, without the swivel oil seal (the really big one) fitted.  Over twice that figure with it fitted (but it's less accurate).  Otherwise they do tap out and in if you decide to swap them.

What else :?   oh yes if you hubs are leaky try this stuff
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Swivel-Hub-Oil-Stops-Leaks-Grease-Landrover-RangeRover_W0QQitemZ4616371637QQihZ002QQcategoryZ31349QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

As for tightening the bearings, land rover recomend an endfloat be present when all is tightened up, Mace your method seems very elaborate.  One comment I'd make though is that if you tighten the first nut with no free play then as you tighten the second nut the first one gets sqeezed even harder against the bearing because of the backlash in the thread.  Taper roller bearings do not like to have no free play at all so do you check for endfloat once you have finished?

Me I use a feeler guage to check once it's all in place.

barmiebrumie:
Just had another idea :shock: , does a rrc axle fit straiht on or is it best to stick with this one & repair it  :?: ,


Thanks John.

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