Air surspension stopped working... and dont say "I told

[Jonny Boaterboy]

I have a problem with the air surspention on my 1994 Range Rover. I broke my leg about 8 weeks ago so the Range rover has been standing for a while. When I came to take it out out again the air surspension did not inflate it stayed on the bump stops. I took it down to my local land rover place they hooked it up and said that there was a falt and that it just needed reseting which they did, (£25) and it worked fine on the way home. I parked it up for the night and came to take it out the next day to find that it would not reinflate again. It self levels when you stop and take the key out and all the buttons and light seem to be working as normal. The only thing that seems a miss is that the compressor sounds noisey.

while it has been standing I have waxoiled it put an optima blue top on (so it had no battary on for about 3 days) and charged the new battary once fitted.

has any one got any ideas my only thought is that the compressor it on its last legs and not pumping out enough air.

Thanks alot

Jonny

[Jonny Boaterboy]

Well a bit more infor for you..... I went out in him today and after driving around for about 10 mins it made it up to full hight. Geting out and watching it it would deflate the surspension quickley but then re inflate them really slowly with the commpresor working all the time. The compessor is making alot of noise just latley could it be that it is not giving out the volume of air qiuck enogh to inflate quickly or would it be a sticking solaniod that is not opening fully, or what about a faulty presure switch on the air tank that is not allowing the presure to get high enogh?

Any ideas

Thanks Jonny

[andycwb]

It sounds like you have two problems.  The first is that the compressor isn't filling the system quickly enough, and the second is that their is an air leak.

Test #1: Undo the drain plug on the air reservoir until the air starts to escape, and let it empty.  With the engine running and a door open, time how long the compressor runs.  More than 10 mins to fill the reservoir means it's past it.  It should be 6 to 8 mins.  If you can hear air escaping from the valve block exhaust during this time you have diaphragm valve failure in the valve block.

Test #2: Shut the door, and let it come to height.  Switch the engine off, and open the door again.   Measure the height to the wheelarches on each corner, then come back in a couple of hours and measure them again.  That will tell you if you have a leak.

Hope that helps.

AndyC

P.S. This page on my site is almost entirely applicable to the classic as well.  The only differences are in terms of some of the wiring pin outs and component locations. http://www.cunningham.me.uk/rangiewiki/index.php?title=P38A_Suspension

[Jonny Boaterboy]

Andy your a star! Will try that tommorow dont think that there is any leaks but will check anyway, but the compressor does sound "weak" If I take the drain plug out of the tank will it come out with a pop! and is this the easy way to depresurise the system as in the manuel it says to depresurise the system befor doing any work on it?

[ariane44]

You wrote something about waxoiling the car - did you put anything between rear fender and rear inner wing? There is the air intake of the EAS (you can access it if you remove the subwoofer and the plate behind it). The intake also has a little filter that wants to be changed from time to time. I would check this first before making the compressor run for too long with the danger of overheating.

To find the leak you can use soapy water. If you disable the EAS (and automatic levelling) with the switch at the lower B-post underneath the passenger seat (right hand on LHD cars, where you also find the EAS ECU), you might see which edge lowers most to give you a start. In case you still have the original air bags they should be pretty porous in the area where they fold. Island4x4 have cheap replacement air bags which can be installed very easily.

What fault did they find? Height sensor out of range?

Cheers

Carsten ;-)

[Jonny Boaterboy]

That could be it Carsten, I have wax oiled it and yes I did spray alot of wax up where the air intake is I will have a look at that first thing tomorow. As for the fualt they did not say but if the compessor has been working hard maybe the ecu shut it down because it thought the compressor was working for too long and therefore had a fault.

Thanks very much for you help keep watching and Ill let you all know how I get on

[andycwb]

If I take the drain plug out of the tank will it come out with a pop! and is this the easy way to depresurise the system as in the manuel it says to depresurise the system befor doing any work on it?

No, there's a slot in the plug, as you start to undo it it will let air escape.  This will depressurise the air reservoir only, there will still be air left in the springs.

To work on the system, I tend to suggest lower it to access level to minimise spring pressure, drain the reservoir, and then carefully remove the hoses from the collets for each corner.  There is a small chance the sudden rush of air will damage the o-rings in the block when you do this, but it's the best way to minimise problems, and the o-rings can be replaced.

[andycwb]

That could be it Carsten, I have wax oiled it and yes I did spray alot of wax up where the air intake is I will have a look at that first thing tomorow.

If you've bunged up the air intake, that would also make the compressor appear weak.

The inlet air filter is a service item and should be replaced, IIRC, every 24,000 miles.

[Jonny Boaterboy]

Well I took the inlet filter off and it was not in very good condition so poped down to the local land rover place to see if it made a difference with no filter....... the commpressor sounded alot better but it still was'nt inflating very quickly. On arrival the boys said to leave it with them and they would have another look...... so Im siting here waiting for the call!

standby Ill let you know what happens!

ps great sight andy been reding through it all and have leart alot thanks

[ScrumpyJack]

Hi jonny, air suspension is great isn’t it :roll:
You are right in what you say that reading andys sight you can learn alot,

It’s given me some things to look at for my niggling probs, such as noisy compressor, car leaning to 1 side, compressor coming on and of frequently and the like, oh joy

But I've got a question for andy, when doing a tight turn either in reverse or forward i.e.: as in getting out of parking spaces the front end seems to go hard and bumpy,
I've looked under the front of the car as the wife has driven it slowly to see ( caution, only do this if wife is in good mood )

Anyway, I've noticed the front bags when turning rise to such a height they look like they nearly pop off there mounts, at this point the front wheels feel like they are bouncing or skidding as you turn, any idea,

P.S sorry to just jump into your thread like that jonny,
any update on your prob yet.

[andycwb]

But I've got a question for andy, when doing a tight turn either in reverse or forward i.e.: as in getting out of parking spaces the front end seems to go hard and bumpy, ... Anyway, I've noticed the front bags when turning rise to such a height they look like they nearly pop off there mounts, at this point the front wheels feel like they are bouncing or skidding as you turn, any idea

The only thing I've heard of like this was actually a seized centre diff - the torsional forces in the suspension cause it to lift.  Might be worth checking out since it can be tested pretty easily.

[Range Rover Blues]

If anyone needs it I've got Rovacom Lite for EAS on the classic, to fix mine which sounds noisy too.  Not that I've anything to compare it with.

Anyway, I usually ask for a small 'donation' towards the high cost of the equipment.

If you want to tinker with your ride height settings, this can be done too

[thermidorthelobster]

Anyway, I've noticed the front bags when turning rise to such a height they look like they nearly pop off there mounts, at this point the front wheels feel like they are bouncing or skidding as you turn, any idea,

I'm with Andy on this one, I think it's your centre diff which is the problem.

[andycwb]

I also have a Rovacom Lite with all of the P38A software and Classic EAS that's available to local mud-club members who can make it to my house, again in return for a small donation.

[Range Rover Blues]

I'd agree, the bouncing and skidding isn't dues to steering geometry, it just makes the ytres scrub slightly.  I'd expect the car to sink though when driving forewrds and turning a tight lock.

Try putting the car in to access mode then keep your left foot feathering the brake as you manouvre the car, this keeps the system inhibited.  Better still leave a door open.  See if the ride height changes then, if so the probelm is NOT in the EAS.

[ScrumpyJack]

Thanks lads,
hopefully get enough time to check a few things this weekend, I have noticed the rear offside ride hight sensor is broken and has been cable tied in place ( nice ) :shock:

andy might take you up on the rovacom, time permitting, where in barkshire are you.

[Jonny Boaterboy]

ok...... what's a "Rovacom Lite"? did someone say you could tincker with the ride hights! would it be possiable to increase the high profile hight even more and if so does that interfear with the exstended profile ride hight? ummm sounds like I could increase my off roading ability.... can I?

well after the garage boys had had a look at my air surspension they concluded that there was nothing wrong! And after driving around for a while the proplem seems to be that the compressor is geting old! I will see how it goes over the next few weeks.

Hey there ScrumpyJack  no problem with the high jacking good to hear more talking abot the air! sorry to hear you have a problem I can offer no help at all apart from when you do drop down to acces mode to carry out the surgested tests rather than leave the door open of ride the break peddel just flick the rocker switch under the driver seat. This will turn off the air surspension. If the problem still arises the it is nothing to do with the EAS.

[Bush Tucker Man]

Isn't the system linked into the interior light switches as well?, in order ascertain that it ought to be in 'Access Mode Height'?

[Jonny Boaterboy]

Well....... just got back from trying to go to a car boot sale in the Range Rover. As normal (at the moment) the surspention did not rise at all then after about 5 mins started to rise a little. The high profile light on the dash then started flashing in conjunction with the high and low profile lights on the switches. They then stayed on and the Range droped back down onto the bumpstops!

Now I'm guesing that the EAS ECU has decided that there is something wrong with the compressor, panicked, and droped it on to the bump stops. I am now going to put anther air compressor on that I got of e-bay (hopefully it will work ok)

It says that you need to depresurise the system to do this.... so my plan is to take the drain bung out of the tank, it is allready on the bump stops so should that be enogh?

Once I have put the new compressor on there, will it reset its self and start working or will I have to get it reset by pluging into the laptop again at the local land rover garage?

uhummmm I feel that the end is in sight!

Thanks Jonny

[Jonny Boaterboy]

Is there anyway I can test the compessor befor I put it on?

And does anyone know if you can get a rebuild kit for the compresser and if so will it put it back to "good as new status"?

[Range Rover Blues]

Isn't the system linked into the interior light switches as well?, in order ascertain that it ought to be in 'Access Mode Height'?

Access mode is selected by the dash switch, you have to be in park or have the handbrake on with a manual.  Opening the doors suspends any change in height, even if it's half way through.  The switch under the seat provides the ecu with a 'door open' signal so it's just easier to open a door, otherwise you have to get out and grope around under the seat, heaven knows what you might find under there.

As for the height settings, yes you can modify most of them, access, low profile, standard and high.  One warning, extended is automatic and it's not adviseable to have you EAS trying to blow the springs up to their limit.  When I jack mine up on the chassis the air springs look like they are about to burst, then you hear air escaping.

But I reprogram the EAS for the caravan, for driving fast etc. as it costs me nothing.  I might have another play this weekend :roll:

If you want more ground clearence on EAS I'd suggest longer dampers and air bag spacers with spacers on the bump stops.  You can't increase the travel of the air spring but you could lift the whole lot, setting your standard and low profile the same so that on tarmac you ride as low as possible without hitting the bump stops, thatv way you don't need castor correction or a TD5 prop.

[ScrumpyJack]

Ok lads, I've checked and yes it would appear to be the centre diff permanently  locked
So next question, any easy and cheep way of rectifying it or am I just kidding myself.

[Range Rover Blues]

It's going to be the Borg-Warner (he said, staing the obvious) so you can split the front casing off with the tT-Bpox still in the car and remove the viscous unit.  You can check various bearing and that at the same time but basically if you've been happy with the running of the box then you can just swap the offending article.

Have a mooch round Ashcroft transmision's website for much more info and possibly some tips on swapping the viscous unit too.

[Jonny Boaterboy]

I put a new viscous cupling on mine, L.R. quoted £3700! my local L.R. garage quoted about £500 and iI did it myself for about £390

It is all streight forward bolt on bolt off mechanics, the trickiest bit is geting the cuppling free. I had to move a cross chassie surport (8 bolts) to get it out. If you follow the manual its no problem it took me about 3 days...... but I was tacking my time. I think it said in the manual the you had to take the whole transfer box off but you dont have to you just undo the mounts surport it underneath, take the front off and then slide out the cuppling. Dont forget to get some good sealent to seal it when it goes back together.

If you need the step by step how to do it I can drop it in the post to you.

If you have a fair mechanical head on you you should have no problems at all...... I did'nt.

I used a replacement cuppling from my local L.R. garage not a L.R. genuine artical and it has been fine.

hope that helps

Jonny

[ScrumpyJack]

I've checked out Ashcroft’s site and they do a same day fitting service, all in plus use of courtesy car for £388,

although I’m a confident d.i.y.er on landys it's a time thing, but on saying that I hate sending my car into someone to get the phone call saying this needs replacing and that’s a bit worn and so on,
SSoooooooooooo much to do and so little summer

Just out of interest jonny how much did your none genuine part cost.

[Jonny Boaterboy]

I think it was about £330 but not sure, I did think about geting it done at ashcroft but I had only just got the Range Rover at that point so forced myself to do it as I wanted to do all the work/maitainace myself and if I started sending into garages to get the work done I would never learn.... + the job was done properly i.e. all the nuts cleaned up and put back on with copper grease etc.

nice to have it done in a day though!

[Jonny Boaterboy]

Anyway for thoese still interested the air surspension seems to be sorted now, it was the compressor, I replaced it with one I won off e-bay and it seems to be working great now... cost me £30 at the local L.R. garage to reset it and away we go. Hopefully thats the end of it!

Thanks for everyones help with this...... air is still best..... but not quite as good as I hoped

[ScrumpyJack]

Glad to see you got it sorted,
 
I will have to wait for some free time before I can address some of the probs on my list