Changing Springs

[rustprooflandyracer]

I have got fed up with my two leaf rear parabolics as they are too weak, even a 50 kg load makes the rear sit down, so I decided to kindly write an email to Mr Perfect stressing my issue of this problem and that I have already had to up grade my shocks for better ones. So he is exchanging my old ones for new ones with a small cost...

Just how easy is it to change rear leafs when the vehicle is full built up as the last time I did it was when it was a rolling chassis.

Cheers Matt

[Litch]

Easy, in fact that is when most are changed.

Although I sold my S111 a long time ago now I played around with the springs quite a bit and I remember that a small jack between the chassis and the rear eye was very handy for stretching the spring into position.

[mark.yellow.series.3]

piece'o' cake :lol:

[Neil Jones]

It's really easy, have changed many in the road outside my house before.

If you fitted the originals to a rolling chassis did you pre-load them correctly?  Make sure these are.

[rustprooflandyracer]

To preload them you basically just do not do up the u bolts tightly then rock the body and let is stand before tightening them up to correct torque.

[mark.yellow.series.3]

oops :oops:
guess ill redo mine then

[Neil Jones]

My dad usually deals with the technical stuff, but I seem to remember something about not tightening the springs to the chassis/spring hangers, jacking the axel till the vehicle lifts, then tightening the bolts. Not quite sure.  I can ask him when it's not 12.30 am!!

[dave_2A_2.25Turbo]

something about not tightening the springs to the chassis/spring hangers, jacking the axel till the vehicle lifts, then tightening the bolts.

That's for original-type springs.  The instructions for Paras specifically states not to do that.  Might try it though, cos they do sit low with any weight in the back. (Yeah - I've got CP 2-leaf as well....)

[rustprooflandyracer]

I got really annoyed with them, so he said I could up grade for a small some of money, which i was a bit p###### off at really as I have already had to upgrade the shocks to better ones   :x the 3 leaf ones should hopefully solve the problem

[hobbit]

There are ok if the nuts come undone, worth having a replacement set of U bolts for replacement, and also hanger bolts they can be a dog when they sieze in the bushes, we couldn't release the last ones for love or money, finished using an air hacksaw to limit damage, then pressed the old bushes out, a lot easier to work on removing the old bit out from under the vehicle

[Miniman]

You must be getting soft in ya old age.....he he... why not buy a 90....
I have my original rear leafs and they are brill on my 88" the fronts used to be very hard but now with the new engine that is some what heavyer they have woken up again.....he he

PERKINS 3330cc

[Tikirocker]

I always apply Grinders law when confronted with anything on a Landy that won't budge ... Grinders Law dictates ...

1 - If it doesn't move - grind it off.
2 - If it has seized - see part one.

I'm doing a restoration of my 64 2A 88 right now and Grinders Law is a virtue! I've not only got siezed shackle pins, seized inside the bush, the bush then seized inside the spring hanger hole - add to this that the shackle pin is BENT! Do you think anything will move? The shackles have to go bye bye ...

Grinders Law will be applied with extreme predjudice.  :twisted:  

[Miniman]

HEAT......works a treat....can you get hold of a porta pack.....

[Tikirocker]

I've thought about heat but alas I have no access to that sort of equiptment. It's no biggy as I have a home made bushwhacker and a cunning plan. Basically just cut the old shackles off - I intend on fitting Military shackles anyway - cut the ends off the shackle pins and drill the rubber bushing that surrounds the shackle pin inside the inner bush sleeve .... as soon as it loosens drift it out. Then I'm just left with the outer sleeve of the bush - proceed the cut through that on two sides with a hack or hole saw and then just drift it out. Job done. :)

[ian_s]

i had exactly that problem when i changed my springs,
the shackle pin was totally seized in the shackles and the bush

i ended up cutting the pin off with a grinder, drilling out all the rubber that i could, burning the rest out with a little blow torch, then cutting through the outer metal tube 6 times with a recipricating saw

it took me about 8 hours to do in total, with lots and lots of swearing, shouting, ranting, a few tears and a lot of blood.

[tomarse]

I have got fed up with my two leaf rear parabolics as they are too weak, even a 50 kg load makes the rear sit down,

I have 3 leaf rocky mountain parabolics on the back of my landy and they will take an amazing amount of weight without it getting much lower! I'm really impressed by them - they take a lot more weight that the other springs my mates have.
I moved 2 engines this weekend and you couldnt tell from outside!. I dont think it is physically possible to get them right down - even with the back full of rubble to the roof I still had an inch or two from the bump stops..

My mate had the heavy duty british parabolics on the back of his landy and he could hit the bumpstops with just his toolbox and a weekends wirth of camping gear

[rustprooflandyracer]

Well it is all done now...  :D Took all of two hours in total, well the nuts and bolts came off easily so no need for hacksaws or blowtorches! They are 100% better, doesn't hit the bump stops now with just a highlift in the back.

[ian_s]

i guess because you already changed to the parabolics recently, the bolts havent had 20 years to rust solid. thats encouraging for me as i got to remove my rears to do some welding at some point

[mark.yellow.series.3]

sorry, my chassis was far more siezed then any of you!!!!!

bushes in the chassis wouldnt come out, cut the in two places (as per haynes book of lies) smashing away with hammer and chissel, no good.
had to get the burning gear warmed the bush up, more hammering, still no good.
had to acually cut the whole bush out the the oxy acetiline (very carefully)

also, steering relay (oh yes the steering relay), after many hours of WD40 and hammer, got really ticked off. in the end i had to beat it out with a 14 pound sledge hammer, and when its mutilated remains came out it had come out with the sleeve of the chassis on it, i had to cut the sleeve off and reweld it back in :x

[Tikirocker]

sorry, my chassis was far more siezed then any of you!!!!!

bushes in the chassis wouldnt come out, cut the in two places (as per haynes book of lies) smashing away with hammer and chissel, no good.
had to get the burning gear warmed the bush up, more hammering, still no good. had to acually cut the whole bush out the the oxy acetiline (very carefully)

also, steering relay (oh yes the steering relay), after many hours of WD40 and hammer, got really ticked off. in the end i had to beat it out with a 14 pound sledge hammer, and when its mutilated remains came out it had come out with the sleeve of the chassis on it, i had to cut the sleeve off and reweld it back in :x

Bloody hell!  :shock:

Have you ever tried overhauling the steering relay before? Make sure your standing behind 2ft of concrete wall before you release the internal spring ... that thing can actually kill you!

[mark.yellow.series.3]

oh yes!!! the middle spring gave way first with the slede hammer offensive! then the outer case finally saw my point of veiw.

[John R]

As a rookie owner I've picked up series 2a that need's rear springs i would like pro's an cons on going for original or parabolics the main use is going to be laning ? :?