Topic: Lightweight project (Read 9340 times)

timberdog · « **on:** February 21, 2006, 14:49:46 »

Well made a start today on the Lightweight i have to try to keep things as cheap as poss due to not having allot on money ..but i started with a total scrub down of the Chassi to inspect and Underseal.

The only bad bit i could find is the the rear section were the Rear Crossmember is ..It wants welding on the rear Drivers side of the chassi and new Cross member .

Anyone recommend what thickness plate to use on Chassi??

Apart from that bit she is solid..

I would also like some info about Fuel tanks and Fuel lines as i have got to clean one Tank out to get her started so like best wy to clean and were do the Fuel Lines run etc??

smog · « **Reply #1 on:** February 21, 2006, 15:15:12 »

Are you wanting to keep the truck as close to original as possible ? If not consider converting it to use civvy petrol tanks and with a bit of cutting and such you can have a side filler instead of an under seat jobby.

I converted mine from under seat a couple years ago and am much happier besides the obvious advantages of not asking the passenger to bail out the tanks tend to be cheaper for standard Series motors.

If you need any bits i have a pretty much stripped lwt.

For chassis repairs i have always used 3mm steel, no doubt others have used thicker but i find it works well for me.

Not sure i have helped any but still

timberdog · « **Reply #2 on:** February 21, 2006, 16:02:09 »

Not sure about Original yet i am just gettting the main bits of work sorted..

How did you convert to side filler?? and pics??,..But i aint to bothered about kicking somone out to fill up..

I will let you know about bits as i go thanks good to know some parts available..

Got to get a Bottle before i can get the welding done and thats a Labour of love aint even got the money for that the way things are at the mo :twisted: :oops:

smog · « **Reply #3 on:** February 21, 2006, 17:04:18 »

As it happens the lwt i did the side filler for is in the process of a full rebuild so i will take some pic's if it ever stops raining.

timberdog · « **Reply #4 on:** February 21, 2006, 19:10:49 »

I am after a rear cross member as well as its shot do you know were i can get a Galvanised one?

also how do you know were to chop off and replace etc?

smog · « **Reply #5 on:** February 21, 2006, 19:47:08 »

The usual places sell rear cross members, they ain't that bad on price either.

As for how do you know where to chop, the new cross member will have about 12 inches of chassis attached so as you are able to weld the new one into place.

Worst scene is you need to measure the chassis before and after, most usually as i have done in the past i cut off whats rotten and measure it then bung (weld) the new one on. Only once was i off and i only found out when i refitted the tub luckily i was only out by a centimetre or so, which meant with a little bit of packing on the other lugs it fitted kind of. (lets put it this way i sold it and it looked fine)

Pity i chopped up the chassis to take off the ARC roll cage otherwise the *scrapper* had a damn good chassis.

The rebuild one my father owned for 20 odd years and only replaced the chassis 5 years ago and again luckily for me he bought a heavy duty galv one, he had it coated in some plastic coating stuff too so hopefully the chassis will out-live me.

Will post some pic's as i said in the morrow of the filler though, if the weather ever picks up.

timberdog · « **Reply #6 on:** February 21, 2006, 20:30:14 »

Smog is this the one??

http://www.paddockspares.com/products.asp?category=SERIES&subcategory=Chassis&product=Rear%20x%20member%20with%20ext%20-%20military

also i would like to lift the Lightweight but i dont know whats involved if at all possible or new shocks ??

smog · « **Reply #7 on:** February 22, 2006, 00:32:16 »

Looks like it might be, but that looks like a standard series jobby not sure they are any different to be honest. (best thing do is clarify before you buy)

Lifting can be done using extended shakles *i had some made for mine cost Ã‚Â£40* but i am pretty sure that LWB ones are ok, then fit para bolic springs change the tyres to 850x16 or even 900's(as long as they fit and get a turning circle without hitting the springs though in my case i had to chop the front bumper down at the back to make them fit proper. Then of course fit them plastic mud guards from all the usual places to account for the extra width of tyre.

If you want the body to lift then simply exten the stuff that needs extending such as the tabs to attach the tub and stuff and add blocks under the body to attach to the chassis. Gives the overall look of a lift and if you increase axle travel will give greater scope for bigger tyres and less rubbing on body parts but don't help on road manners.

There are ways to lift doing mods to standard springs using blocks, but to be honest i prefer standard springs and bigger tyres cheaper and less stuff to go wrong.

Also at the end of the day on a cart sprung motor you ain't going to increase axle travel that drastically unless you spend lots of wonga on somin like the gone2far type system.

Personally i have just bunged bigger tyres on and added extended shakles with standard shocks, been stuck a few times but then i get stuck in my hybrid at times and that has a 4 inch lift and runs on 850's with extended shocks dislocation cones lowered shock mounts and loads more to make it bing bong and do stuff.

I am more than sure someone will come along and tell me i am so wrong and stuff but, pretty much all of the above i have done in the past and it works.

Not sure if any of the above helps, i hope it does just my explantions of stuff kind of stinks.

If you get real desperate give me a call or 'pop' round for a brew and biscuits *i actually mean come round talk about landrovers drink a brew and basically trash anything from chavs to how RA are screwing up our hobby*

smog · « **Reply #8 on:** February 22, 2006, 00:40:12 »

As an aside i just remembered i have a series rear cross member tack welded onto a project hybrid if needs must i can check the width and so on to see for sure if it will do the job if so it's yours for a few beer tokens.

Did i mention i have LOTS and LOTS of spare's axles springs body parts for RR and series even got diffs and gear box's a cab and a full hard top even a set of sticks too.

Not trying to sell stuff but for the right beer tokens or not as the case might be i am more than willing to part with some or all of it because to be honest 4 landrovers and enough scrap parts to make a few more is more than i need or will ever want.

Sorry for the double post just the bint reminded me about the cross member on the project/scrap hybrid.

timberdog · « **Reply #9 on:** February 22, 2006, 07:44:45 »

Cheers mate that has helped ..

PM me you details and i will pop round for a Natter and have a look at that Cross Member

hobbit · « **Reply #10 on:** February 22, 2006, 10:05:38 »

That crossmember you linked to on paddocks is a military one, the civilian ones taper up on the out riggers

timberdog · « **Reply #11 on:** February 22, 2006, 16:29:32 »

found a cross member from paddocks it not listed i had to phone them Ã‚Â£69.00 and also Barrel and Keys which i need Ã‚Â£8.90.

timberdog · « **Reply #12 on:** February 22, 2006, 16:34:04 »

Smog missed ya post would mind those sticks??

timberdog · « **Reply #13 on:** February 22, 2006, 19:54:40 »

more pics of stuff i have to do i now need two bottoms for the Doors of second hand Doors both sides.

I have got to weld up both footwells in and out
keeps me out of trouble for a while!!!

timberdog · « **Reply #14 on:** February 23, 2006, 13:28:17 »

Wellgot my plating today for bits to do 3 Mil for bit on Chassi and 2 mil for footwells..

and i am gonna have a go at Firing her up tommorow :roll:

hobbit · « **Reply #15 on:** February 23, 2006, 21:54:14 »

Remember if you are welding on the drivers side chassis, from the cab to the back be careful the wiring harness runs through there to the rear of the motor, if its still in there

timberdog · « **Reply #16 on:** February 23, 2006, 22:14:52 »

cheers bud will do..

dont think it does now i think it has been re routed but i will check thanks again

timberdog · « **Reply #17 on:** February 24, 2006, 18:43:53 »

Well i put new plugs in her flushed rad and replaced coolant/water filled both tanks with petrol and removed the barrel on the ignition to gain access to the base of ignition to be able to turn with a screw driver and i got a dash lights and turned the key and i could hear the starter motor clicking but the battery was dead so i took my battery out of the 90 and stuck that on she turned over but not fast engouh to get her fired up!!!

I think its a case of tow rope and down the road but she aint in no presentable state to be towed...lol.

If anyone is loacal who could assist with a tow please let me know i am in nuneaton...at least i know the engine turns free..

I then gave up and moved on to Drivers side floor welding prep and cutting plate to size ready to weld ..

At least she now has new plugs and Coolant now just want to hear her running!!!!!

I have loads to keep me busy other than starting her but it would out my mind at rets to hear the running of an Engine..

bezzabsa · « **Reply #18 on:** February 24, 2006, 19:17:25 »

couldnt you get the 90 close enough to jump start? o rbite the bullet and buy one of those Ã‚Â£19.99 booster box's - good bit of kit and V useful ;)

timberdog · « **Reply #19 on:** February 24, 2006, 20:33:47 »

I tried that with 90 but my battery isnt much cop nor is the battery on the Lighweight so not much juice getting to Lightweight etc

thats a good idea booster box..do they ware down like a battery on continious cranking as aint shure if it will start due to damp or bad earth or somthing if ya know what i mean??

know any cheap places to buy one?

smog · « **Reply #20 on:** February 26, 2006, 11:06:03 »

Sorry i missed the call the other day bud, saldy since then i have lost my voice so it would be pointless calling.

If you want to pop over thats fine but giz a call first, the doors i have for the lightweight are good except the guy i bought it off got [!Expletive Deleted!] one day slammed one of em and bent it soessentially the door's are good but one at least would need a good hammering.

Either way i have a spare just about everything

will call you if i ever get my voice back

timberdog · « **Reply #21 on:** February 26, 2006, 12:19:41 »

I will ring you this afternoon after we have a viewing on the house put my name on the doors

timberdog · « **Reply #22 on:** February 27, 2006, 21:11:32 »

Got some nice second hand doors for the Light weight today from Smog you wouldnt think they had been used no rot on em ata all!!

Off to try get her running tommorow fuel needs priming up etc

timberdog · « **Reply #23 on:** March 01, 2006, 15:51:00 »

Well got her Running today cup of Fuel down the Carb and pumped lift/Fuel Pump and she fired up first time!!! :(biggrin):

Sounds sweet as well..no smoke or owt!!

So with myself being able to relax knowing the Engine is ok i carried on with the Underside and chassi cleaning and sealing..

smog · « **Reply #24 on:** March 01, 2006, 15:53:24 »

Cool, glad it runs and runs well.

timberdog · « **Reply #25 on:** March 01, 2006, 16:33:48 »

Cheers Smog..
Hows the Throat infection..Agrevated by the misses and Kids??
:lol:
Dead good to hear her running mate puts ya mind at rest that the rest of the Money to be spent is worthwhile!!

Still will need that Solinoid matey i have hot wired for now but i will eventully wire to a Button..Smog whats the best way how??

smog · « **Reply #26 on:** March 02, 2006, 00:07:04 »

ermmmmmmm will look for the solinoid over the weekend, to wire it ermmmmmm giz a couple days for me to find the wiring diagram i used (will scan n upload it). if not git the switches and i will come across n sort it, can only go wrong once or twice :lol: besides how much can a few dozen fuses cost :roll:

Throat is good now kinda, just need more sunshine and less cold and maybe i could get some wor done on the landrovers.

timberdog · « **Reply #27 on:** March 02, 2006, 18:45:00 »

Well underside of Lightweight is seal up good and proper now thank god!!

Started to clean areas off with Angle Grinder to weld up etc ..

I have a slight problem has anyone got any good ideas for getting off Rusted on wheel nuts as they have been on that long i bet they have seized on!!

I have soaked in WD40 and gave they a ood bang on each one to try to free up thread etc..
Only thing i can think of is to get some heat on then nuts..Trouble is i can only get my hands on a Small blow torch can??

smog · « **Reply #28 on:** March 03, 2006, 02:55:21 »

If it were driveable i would suggest going to a tyre place and ask them to loosen them all.

Banging with hammer, heating and soaking in WD40 you already tried so thats screwed, try an extension on the wheel brace (6ft scaffold tube) if nothing else it will either break them or slacken them.

Thing is you need them off regardless so essentially whats the worst you have to do ? replace a few bolts ?

:lol: when you need another axle giz a shout :lol:

hobbit · « **Reply #29 on:** March 03, 2006, 16:36:46 »

Quote from: "smog"

If it were driveable i would suggest going to a tyre place and ask them to loosen them all.

Banging with hammer, heating and soaking in WD40 you already tried so thats screwed, try an extension on the wheel brace (6ft scaffold tube) if nothing else it will either break them or slacken them.

As suggested, hexagonal impact socket, on a 3/4 drive is better, lean like hell on the scaff bar and get some to thump the back of the socket with at least a 2 pound lump hammer

Or like I used to do sit on the bar and hit it, be prepared to land on your backside while still sitting on the bar though :shock:

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AuthorTopic: Lightweight project (Read 9340 times)