Changing Brake Discs

[Homer]

Hi All,

I am thinking of changing my the Brake Discs on my disco this weekend.

Is this a big job?, how long should it take to do each corner and what do I have to remove to get the new ones on?
Also please take into account that I have limited space/facilities (I wll have to do it in the Car Park).
I have the service manuals on CD, but not being the most mechanically minded person on the planet I would appreciate your input before I start undoing any bolts!

Also should I consider renewing anything else while I am a it?

Or should I just hand over some cash and get someone to do it for me? (any volunteers? :lol: )


Thanks


Mark.

[Hightower]

Did mine the other weekend.  Took about 45 mins per corner, but wasn't rushing.

Order of events (on a D2 anyway):
1) Remove wheel
2) Unbolt caliper and move it out of the way (taking care not to stretch the brake or ABS lines)
3) Remove old pads
4) Unbolt caliper carrier from hub (these bolts can be a bit tight) and remove
5) Remove screw holding disc to hub (had to use an impact driver on mine)
6) Remove old disc from hub (mine took some bashing with a 4lb lump hammer to shift it)
7) Clean everything up
8) Refit is the reverse of removal  

You'll need to push the pistons back into the caliper somehow.  I've got a tool that does this and makes it easy.  Worth getting one if you can.

Make sure you fit new pads with the new discs.

Good luck  

[Henry Webster]

Worth bearing in mind that the process is different on earlier (series1)discoverys

H

[Homer]

Worth bearing in mind that the process is different on earlier (series1)discoverys

H

In what way? Mine is a '94 200TDi.

Cheers

Mark

[Budgie]

On a 200 & 300 Disco the process is:

1. Remove road wheel, after chocking the other wheels!!  
2. Remove brake pad retaining pins & break pads.
3. Remove the brake caliper, two bolts on the inside of the calliper. (You may have to undo the top swivel pin to allow the brakepipe to the calliper to move enough to get it clear of the disc. Once clear, replace the swivel pin & secure with one bolt to stop too much EP90/swivel grease from leaking from the bottom of the swivel.)
4. Remove rubber cap in the centre of the hub to reveal the end of the stub axle & remove circlip with spacer.
5. Undo the 6 flange retaining bolts and pull the flange clear.
6. Push back the locking tabs on the hub nut retaining washer and undo the hub nuts, there are two, outer is a locknut, inner to tention the wheel bearings.
7. Remove disc & wheel bearings from the stub axle, being careful not to getany dirt in the bearings.
8. On the back/inside of the disc there are 5 or 6 (can't remember) bolts that need to be removed to release the disc from the hub then remove the disc and clear any deposits from the hub ready for the new disc.
9. Reassemble, remembering to regrease the wheel bearings and tighten them to the correct setting. Everything else goes together in the reverse of how it came apart.
It's best to replace the rubber seal at the rear of the hub and have new locking washer for the wheelbearing nuts and a new gasket for the flange.

There are torque settings for the bolts on the disc, flange & calliper, so check on those. The whole job is described in the Haynes Manual.  

Hope that helps.  :D

[Hightower]

Blimey  :shock:

With all that lot, I'm glad I've got a TD5  

[Budgie]

It looks a big job when you read it but it's not really, honest!!   :lol:

[Homer]

Cheers Guys,


Yes it does look like a big job. Will have to find a grown up to help me I think!


Regards

Mark

[hobbit]

Dead easy, but i was trying to be clever, had a set of standard disco1 hubs, so I did the change round before stripping mine down, then found out I have a flamin abs axle the hubs are different, but luckily the parts are the same, still finished up doing haf the job twice

Also its worth considering if you are going this far in, to change the bearings and seals too

[Range Rover Blues]

Buy the manual and read it at your leisure, if you know what's involved beforehand then none of it is too difficult.  You should be able to do an axle in an afternoon.

Jusat a tip, drop the whole hub into the upturned roadwheel to hold it still as you remove/refit the disks.  If they are rusted on you may have to cut them in hlaf to get them off (the disks).

[davidlandy]

..an axle in afternoon, you must be paid by the hour!!!

[hobbit]

Just a tip, drop the whole hub into the upturned roadwheel to hold it still as you remove/refit the disks.  If they are rusted on you may have to cut them in half to get them off (the disks).

No seriously its one of the easier job, looks a lot but not that bad at all

This is what he means, even better if you have a stack of wheels  :lol:

[muddymart]

do you just finger tight the bearing nut up , or overtighten it, then slacken it back off?

[hobbit]

Wind it up to take the slack out, then back off and set the end float

[Henry Webster]

Worth bearing in mind that the process is different on earlier (series1)discoverys

H

In what way? Mine is a '94 200TDi.

Cheers

Mark

Sorry to abandon you yesterday, was flat out and didn't have time for a full reply.  Looks like you got the help that you required tho.  Good old Mud-CLub! :D

[Homer]

Sorry to abandon you yesterday, was flat out and didn't have time for a full reply.  Looks like you got the help that you required tho.  Good old Mud-CLub! :D

No worries, thanks to all for their help!


Going to have a go at the weekend. If you dont hear from me for a while send a search party!


Thanks again

Mark

[BrumLee]

Hi Mark,

Pity you're not up this neck of the woods again as you know where there a couple of helping hands  

Make sure you have some hub seals as mine needed changing when I did my discs.

[Homer]

Hi Lee,

which part is the hub seal?

As well as discs I now have bearings

The parts I have (i think) are
2,4,8,9,11,12,(7 or 13 - they tell me I only have 1 oil seal)

Mark
( out of my depth and sinking fast  :lol: )

[ChrisW]

13 is the inner hub seal, 7 is the outer hub seal.
Some 200's didn't have the outer seal as they made the changeover to 300's.
If you have time and for the few pence it will cost getting a couple of outer seals just in case will cover every eventuality  

[hobbit]

Another thing is to take a pic of the seals especially the inner, as I myself have done, i forgot which way it went when it was time to fit the new one :oops:

it helps

[muddymart]

can i ask , how do you know if youve got the correct pre-load on the swivel, im fairly confident in changing the bearings and checking play,just the preload? if anyone can add to this thread.
Thanks
Martin

[Budgie]

To check the swivel pin bearing pre-load you'll need a spring balance, one used for fishing is fine.
With the swivel housing seal removed attach the spring balance to the track rod ball joint hole and pull the housing with even pressure using the balance and read off what it takes to move the housing.

If it's set correctly then is should read 1.16 to 1.46 kg (2.56 to 3.22 lbs or 11 to 14N).
Should the pre-load need adjusting, remove shims from under the top swivel pin to tighten and add shims to loosen the movement. Remembering to re-tighten the top pin before measuring the pre-load again though.  

If you need extra shims then they are available at most Land Rover parts shops.

Once the correct pre-load has been obtained, refit the swivel seal and refill the swivel housing with EP90 or Swivle grease.

[muddymart]

i take it one like this

connect it like u said and pull upwards till the swivel moves?

[Henry Webster]

Worth getting the preload right too, because this is one of the things that can influence steering shake on a Land Rover.

H

[muddymart]

:shock: yes, and iv'e got serious shaking going on :-({|=

[Budgie]

i take it one like this

connect it like u said and pull upwards till the swivel moves?

That's the thing and you pull it with the rotation of the swivel, it's more "round" than "upwards".