Recovery Points

[Bush Tucker Man]

I've got a set of LR JATE rings (part no; RRC3227) in the workshop & a (genuine LR ???) steering guard on the 110.

Now the guard doesn't sit flush against the chassis members, but has tubular spacers to either side (sorry no photo)
(I've got a copy of the Defender accessories catalogue in front of me, but there's not a good enough picture)

Anyways, there's enough lee-way to fit the JATEs, but do I attempt to cut the spacers in a straight line :lol: ??, or buy a bag-full of  thick washers of an appropriate thickness?

Also; I've got the rear recovery loop for the cross-member. Mines's got the long Dixon-Bate height-adjustable frame (& 2 sliders)

I believe it's got a plastic tank at the age of mine? (1999), is there sufficient room to get to a (24mm?) spanner the back of the cross-member & replace a pair of the bolts with the recovery loop???
It means I don't hve to carry a slider & hitch around if I need to tow anyone

[V8MoneyPit]

I've got one of the recovery 'loops' fitted to mine. There should be plenty of space to fit it before fouling the tank.

[Bush Tucker Man]

Thanks Steve, I'll admit I haven't looked properly yet :oops:

I'll have a browse & hopefully replace a pair of bolts with the Loop,can't see the slider going up that far really??

[clips]

if you look on page 2 under jate rings to 90, (sorry dont know how to make a direct link) littlepow has pictures of how he has attatched jate rings with steering guard in place.
 i have had the same deliberations myself you see, genuine steering guard comes up fairly high but should have adequate spacing to fit rings, but i havnt got a pair to try and dont want to dismantle everything if it wont work.
 i'll be interested to see how you get on.

[Bush Tucker Man]

'Clips'
Like in 'LittlePovs' post, I have a large spacer between guard & chassis, so can cut it/replace it

[Bush Tucker Man]

I've got one of the recovery 'loops' fitted to mine. There should be plenty of space to fit it before fouling the tank.

The problem is the plastic tank & associated metal guard which fits right up to the bottom edge of the cross-member

[Bush Tucker Man]

I've got a set of LR JATE rings (part no; RRC3227) in the workshop & a (genuine LR ???) steering guard on the 110.

Now the guard doesn't sit flush against the chassis members, but has tubular spacers to either side (sorry no photo)
(I've got a copy of the Defender accessories catalogue in front of me, but there's not a good enough picture)

Anyways, there's enough lee-way to fit the JATEs, but do I attempt to cut the spacers in a straight line :lol: ??, or buy a bag-full of  thick washers of an appropriate thickness?

Here's a roughly in-focus image :roll:
Now you can see the extent of the gap between chassis-rail & guard.  I found some aluminium spacers today of approximately the correct diameter(internal & external), so I'll have a go at cutting them to a suitable length over the weekend

[littlepow]

The only thing you might find, is that you may need to cut a section from the top corners of the steering guard to get the rings to fit.

[Popeye]

BTM where did you get the recovery loop from ?

[V8MoneyPit]

It's a genuine LR part. I'll go and dig out the part number and add it in a few minutes!

....right, I'm back! It's NRC5396 at £5.24 + VAT. You will also need the spreader plate for the other side, 562756 at £6.10 + VAT (yes, more than the loop!) and 2 nuts. I used Nyloc ones. Can't remember the thread size, but I'm sure it was metric.

[Bush Tucker Man]

The only thing you might find, is that you may need to cut a section from the top corners of the steering guard to get the rings to fit.

No need it clears it by miles :D

It's a genuine LR part. I'll go and dig out the part number and add it in a few minutes!

....right, I'm back! It's NRC5396 at £5.24 + VAT. You will also need the spreader plate for the other side, 562756 at £6.10 + VAT (yes, more than the loop!) and 2 nuts. I used Nyloc ones. Can't remember the thread size, but I'm sure it was metric

M16, the same as tow-ball mounting bolts (& thus a 24mm)
socket/spanner.
I've got a couple of the spreaders as well as the loops/JATEs

[Popeye]

Thanks V8 money Pit.

BTM how much do you want for a spreader and loop

[Bush Tucker Man]

Thanks V8 money Pit.

BTM how much do you want for a spreader and loop

What I meant is; I've got one loop & 2 (maybe 3?) spreader plates

Loop & 1 plate are going on the 110, if there's enough thread length to cope with the Dixon-Bate framework at the outer-face

If not, recovery towing will be via a Dixon-Bate tow-jaw on a spare slider. It'll take up less room than carrying the 'Pinball-Wizard' around on its slider

[Popeye]

Sorry mate I thought you had some spares  :oops:

[Bush Tucker Man]

Sorry mate I thought you had some spares  :oops:

No worries, but at the prices Steve quotes, new ones won't break the bank
 

It's NRC5396 at £5.24 + VAT. You will also need the spreader plate for the other side, 562756 at £6.10 + VAT (yes, more than the loop!) and 2 nuts.

Well you don't actually need the genuine spreader-plate, a cut down drop-plate (or a suitably sized & drilled piece of 6mm steel will suffice) as a backing plate.

[Bush Tucker Man]

I've been informed by another '99 Td5 owner on 'LR Net' that all the towing-related holes in the cross-member are all threaded :(  :(

So my 'Loop' idea is blown out of the water, now I need to buy/find a cheap tow-jaw & pin

[V8MoneyPit]

I've been informed by another '99 Td5 owner on 'LR Net' that all the towing-related holes in the cross-member are all threaded :(  :(

Nothing a round file won't solve    :D

[Bush Tucker Man]

I've been informed by another '99 Td5 owner on 'LR Net' that all the towing-related holes in the cross-member are all threaded :(  :(

Nothing a round file won't solve    :D

Yes, but you can't get to the rear nuts without at least removing the tank-guard, & if it acts as a cradle dropping the tank itself

[Bush Tucker Man]

Fitted one of the JATE rings this morning (near-side), but due to the wonderful LR 'build tolerances', the off-side requires a longer high-tensile bolt (only about 1/2" longer), as the steering-guard appears to be off-set. so I'll have to got to the industrial suppliers in Wakefield later on.

I was also going to rearrange the Instruments, but it's settled into a constant heavy drizzle, so that's off the cards now

[Bush Tucker Man]

Got another High-Tensile this afternoon from Dixon-Hall, but after meeting up with Andy('Range Rover Blues') I fitted it when I got home.

It's still a bit short, but it ought to suffice for now, as the thread is flush with the top of the nut.
I'll track down another next week, as that was the longest M12 they stock

Might have to go to BAPP at Castleford

[SteveG]

Fitted one of these, to solve rear recovery..



Bought mine from Scorpion as it was convenient, but a number of places do them. It bolts straight onto TD5 crossmember.

Cheers

Steve

[Bush Tucker Man]

Fitted one of these, to solve rear recovery..

Bought mine from Scorpion as it was convenient, but a number of places do them. It bolts straight onto TD5 crossmember.
Cheers
Steve

It looks a very interesting solution  :-k
I take it that it has the threaded cross-member?? (captive nuts?)
Otherwise you've had the same problem as I've got (fuel tank)

Can I ask 2 questions please?
1. How far does it stand off the cross-member face?
2. How much are they?(haven't noticed them for sale)

My main concern is whether the upper-most bar on the Dixon-Bate framework will interfere with the loop on that

[Skywalker]

It's still a bit short, but it ought to suffice for now, as the thread is flush with the top of the nut.

Richard,

If the bolt is flush with the end of the nut, it's fine.  

Spare threads sticking out beyond the nut add no strength.

Dave

[Bush Tucker Man]

My main concern is whether the upper-most bar on the Dixon-Bate framework will interfere with the loop on that

And. yes, on a quick 'in the dark & by feel', the upper bar does indeed cross exactly in front of the top-most threaded cross-member holes :roll:  :roll:  :roll:
Bl**dy typical :twisted:

It's still a bit short, but it ought to suffice for now, as the thread is flush with the top of the nut.

 Richard,

If the bolt is flush with the end of the nut, it's fine.

Spare threads sticking out beyond the nut add no strength.

Dave

Well it feels to be about flush but access is more limited than I envisaged when you're actually trying to get a nut on it & tighten it up

Why did I say I got the bolt from Dixon-Hall??, I didn't (must be going , or gone, senile)
They didn't have one longer (only threaded bar)

I actually went to Turners (the little fastenings & fixtures unit at the bottom of Back Garden Street) & was charged the princely sum of 97p :shock:

I'll  quiz our 'Estates' on Monday first, the engineers might have something, they're usually very obliging

[Skywalker]

Do you really need the rear recovery loop when you have the towbar?


Or are you just a gadget freak like the rest of us  8)

Dave

[Bush Tucker Man]

Do you really need the rear recovery loop when you have the towbar?
Or are you just a gadget freak like the rest of us  8)

Dave

No, well okay. Yes :lol:  :lol:

It was just a means of retaining rear recovery/towing without having to haul the slider & 'Pinball-Wizard' around with me, as it's substantial bit of kit.
I don't really want to leave it permantly in situ, as I'm sure 'it'll get off & walk away at some point', if left :roll:

I thought that fitting a loop would avoid that situation

[Skywalker]

Too true, and in fairness you've already mentioned that ............... sorry, not paying enough attention  :oops: ...............  :D  :D  :D

 :idea:  Why not simply use a shackle through one of the pre drilled holes in the towbar frame

Dave

[Bush Tucker Man]

Too true, and in fairness you've already mentioned that ............... sorry, not paying enough attention  :oops: ...............  :D  :D  :D

"Pay Attention 00", erm (where was I??)

 

:idea:  Why not simply use a shackle through one of the pre drilled holes in the towbar frame

Dave

I know that's an option & the frame is probably strong enough, but it's putting strain on one side unless you shackle on to both sides?

I suppose I'll just buy a pin-hitch & keep it on the spare slider under the rear seat

[Bush Tucker Man]

Why not simply use a shackle through one of the pre drilled holes in the towbar frame

Dave

 :idea:  :idea:  :idea:
Eureka!!
I have it!!! (better see a Doctor then?)
UNLESS..........................
I get a BIG shackle & use the slider-pin to replace the shackle pin & do it that way??
It'll have to be a big shackle to fit snugly & avoid bending the pin in situ.

Thanks for the nudge in the right direction Dave,  I did have a 7tomn(?) laying about at the old house (Sods Law, I've thrown it away)

[Skywalker]

being slightly off centre is unlikely to be a major problem .........  however I like things to be tidy as well.

How about

2 shackles - (1 each side), short tree strop (or similar) as a bridle + tow strop  .............  problem solved ..........   8)  ...  Bob's yer uncle ...........  etc

Dave