tank guard

[JIMBOBLY]

ive bought a fuel tank guard for the rangie,one with the detatchable tow hitch,i can see how the guard bolts on where the holes are for the original tow bar bracket that go through the cross member,and the bolt holes where i have got the jate rings at the mo,but there are 2 bolt holes right at the front of the guard,that dont line up with any holes in the chassis rails or anything,is there a missing bracket,or have i been sold the wrong guard,its s/hand,it said it was for a classic,any help will be much appreciated,jim :-k

[hairyasswelder]

Fitting instructions are on Southdown website  ;)

http://www.southdown4x4.co.uk/Fitting/FitDiscoDTP.jpg

Hope this helps

Steve

[Bowie]

You don't need the most forward bolt holes unless you get involved with silly silly 'extreme' recoveries, and as your truck isn't orange you'll be fine ;)

[JIMBOBLY]

 :Dwell thankyou to the two thar replied,that has solved my problem,nice one cheers,wont forget it,jim :D

[Range Rover Blues]

If you do use the front set of bolt holes you should reinforce the chassis to stop it collapsing when you tighten them.  Under normal use the front edge of the chassis fits under a chassis crossmemeber to transfer load into the chassis.

[Range Rover Ron]

I fitted a Guardian tank guard to my RRC, I had the same situation with the front holes,
as our friend says, if you do not do "extreme" then the front holes do not need to be bolted down.
There is enough support and strength in the rear mount points to hold the tank guard in most off road situations.
Cheers................

[Jonny Boaterboy]

I have just fitted the southdown tank guard and have developed a violent banging at certain speeds when towing the trailer unloaded. I think I have narrowed it down to the fact that the front of the guard is not flush/tight against the chassis crossmember I did jack it up so it was tight when fitting it and when drilling the holes, but after having a look I found that there was a small gap of about 4-5mm which I think was allowing the guard to bang against the crossmember as it flexes due to the trailer bouncing around. I have jammed a bit of rubber in the gap and jacked it up flush against the rubber/crossmember and it had made it a bit better but still not great. So I was thinking of using the holes at the front of the guard to try and stop all movement. Do you just drill a hole through the chassis? Will that weeken the chassis? how do you reinforce it? do you just weld a plate on the outside?

sorry to jump in on your thread Jimbobly, if you haven't fitted yours yet, when you do make sure it is tight against the chassis crossmember and fully tightened on the rear crossmember before you drill the centre holes..... if you haven't got the holes allready!

Thanks

Jonny

[Bowie]

To reinforce the chassis you would need to put crush tubes in to stop the chassis from distorting (as mentioned above).

Check the exhaust for contact with the guard, mine is very close. Also if you have a rear diff guard there is barely any clearance between the front of the guard and the cover...

I wouldn't immediately assume 6mm + 10mm steel is flexing to cause a violent banging noise at all.

[JIMBOBLY]

I have just fitted the southdown tank guard and have developed a violent banging at certain speeds when towing the trailer unloaded. I think I have narrowed it down to the fact that the front of the guard is not flush/tight against the chassis crossmember I did jack it up so it was tight when fitting it and when drilling the holes, but after having a look I found that there was a small gap of about 4-5mm which I think was allowing the guard to bang against the crossmember as it flexes due to the trailer bouncing around. I have jammed a bit of rubber in the gap and jacked it up flush against the rubber/crossmember and it had made it a bit better but still not great. So I was thinking of using the holes at the front of the guard to try and stop all movement. Do you just drill a hole through the chassis? Will that weeken the chassis? how do you reinforce it? do you just weld a plate on the outside?

sorry to jump in on your thread Jimbobly, if you haven't fitted yours yet, when you do make sure it is tight against the chassis crossmember and fully tightened on the rear crossmember before you drill the centre holes..... if you haven't got the holes allready!

Thanks
no worries mate,thanks for your input :D
Jonny

[Range Rover Blues]

To reinforce any mounting point through the chassi try the following.

Drill right through both sides of the chassis (the tank gaurd is 10mm IIRC) to line up with the accessory or whatever.

Drill the outside of the chssis or whichever side faces away from the accesory to a larger diameter that allows you to insert a short length of tube.  The tube needs to be cut flush with the chassi once installed (or slightly short) and the bolt needs a lrge spreader or repair washer to extend well beyond the outside of the tube.

This is how towbars are often fitted to box section chassis on monocoque shells.  The inner wall of the chsssi is taking most of the load, the outer is preventing twisting and supporting load in one direction (often the weight of the trailer on a towbar).  If you want a more secure mounting then make the tube longer so that it protrudes by 10mm or so and once assembled with the bolt just nipped up, weld the tube into the chassis.

[Jonny Boaterboy]

Your could be right Bowie, this banging has got me stumped. when the trailer is unloaded and goes over a bump at around 40mph it transmites the shock right through into the Rangey, to the point that the mobile phone in the holder mounted on the dash jumps out, and the CD jumps and the whole dash is violently shaken  :?   It is almost eliminated when the trailer is fully loaded and does not happen if the trailer is not attached eliminating the possibility of it catching on the axel guard. The rubber that i put on doesn't appear to have made any difference. I never had this problem before fitting the tank guard and I can't work out why it is so bad? I have spoke to south down but they have been unable to give any advise as they have not had this before. I have fitted new dampers but still have the same problem. I think I am going to have to go to an expert and see if they can work it out.... but not sure who to go and ask! With the original tow hitch you did not know there was a trailer attached, which makes things even more confusing as the southdown is attached in the same places!

If any one has any ideas or knows a tow hitch specialist in the Telford area I would be greatfull  [-o<

[Frankie-Boy]

Do you have an Anti Roll Bar fitted, if you do this might be fouling on the tank guard when under load, it happened on mine.

The cure is simple enough, just put a thick spacer between the chassis mount and the anti roll bar mount, I put a piece of 2" square box section between mine and its no problem now.

If you need a photo to show you, let me know and I'll email one to you.

[JIMBOBLY]

Do you have an Anti Roll Bar fitted, if you do this might be fouling on the tank guard when under load, it happened on mine.

The cure is simple enough, just put a thick spacer between the chassis mount and the anti roll bar mount, I put a piece of 2" square box section between mine and its no problem now.

If you need a photo to show you, let me know and I'll email one to you.

no thats fine mate thankyou,as ive got 3 inch lift,ive them off,but thanks anyway :D

[Jonny Boaterboy]

I have put spacers on already but I only get the problem when the unladen trailer is attached with nothing on the hitch there's no problems?

[Range Rover Blues]

Jonny, are you sure it's not just the detachable drop plate that rattles on the pins?

Mine does when it's only loaded lightly or with an empty twin axle trailer, load it up and it's much quieter.

[lurch_917]

 i have seen this on my mates new gaurd and it was found to be the detachabel plate as the pins wernt a tight fit it allowed it move a bit

[Richiez]

Does Anyone Know Where I Could Get Tank Guard For My RANGE ROVER P38 ??