axle swap?

[coffee boy]

i have a 1985 90" with a worn front axle, eg diff, stubs is it easy 2 swap 4 a 24 spline rrc can i swap the discs back and keep the originals non vented or alter the brake pipes on the rrc axle as this was dual circuit sorry if i sound a bit dence  :?

[karloss]

To be honest, and I speak from experience, it's loads easier to just swap the bits you need to. Swapping a whole axle is hard work. The sheer weight of the thing makes it VERY difficult to handle alone. Especially the front one coz it tries to steer itself away from where you want it. Swapping the diff is an afternoons job piece of cake. Don't know if it's the same ammount of splines as yours tho' If not you'll have to swap most of the bits and bob's over including the half shaft's, hub's, cv's(depending on age). You will be able to use the original discs and calipers tho' You will have to remove all these bit's anyway just to do the diff. It may sound like a shed load of work as opposed to "just" swapping the axle. The choice is your's. I've done it both ways and won't be swapping another full axle again anytime soon! Makes it loads easier however if you've got a few mates round and at least two trolley jack's. I've got three jacks and no mates! :-({|=
HTH

[Porny]

I don't think swapping axles is that hard.... just leave the wheels on!!  Just a case of the rolling the old axle out and fitting the 'new' one.

Ok not quite a simple....

Esp. if you've only got one set of wheels, one drag link bar, and one set of radius arms.

But not far off....

If I was to do it again:

Loosen the two big nuts that hold the radius arms (don't remove them, just loosen them a few turns) Though you could remove the rubber bushes from the nut side - but then put the nut back on a couple of turns.
Loosen the bolts that hold the panhard bar
Disconnect front prop and cable tie out of the way.
Remove the bolts on the bottom of the front shocks (and the tops if you want to take the shocks off completely - probably easiest IMHO)
Lift the front of the landy and put it on axle stands (under the chassis)
With the jack under the front axle, take the wheels off and disconnect the brake pipes.
Disconnect the drag bar from the steering box to the front of the swivel (easiest to do wheel end)
Lower the axle back down on the jack - you should now be able to remove the springs and shocks (or at least move the shocks out of the way.
Lift the axle back up on the jack and refit the wheels (you only need a couple of nuts on each wheel)
Then lower the axle back down, should then sit on the wheels.
Remove the panhard bar
Remove the nuts from the end of the radius arms.

You should now be able to roll the axle out from under the land rover.
(Just make sure the landy is correctly supported by the axle stands)

Then just reverse the process to put the new axle on.
Though you will probably need to put the jack under the axle to get the radius arms to go into their holes in the chassis


Obviously it makes life easier if you've got wheels on both axles.
If you need to swap the radius arms over (and other bits) make you loosen any nuts whilst the original axle is still on the vehicle.


This is just how I would do it, so people may have better methods.
It is a struggle to do it without having a rolling axle with wheels... a complete front axle is blinkin heavy!!!!



Ian

[coffee boy]

cheers just mesured the front radius arm link where it bolts in the axle casing and the rr is 8 mm wider  than the 90s also the arm is 6mm thicker on the rr is this age related? 90 is 85 rr is 91 not a prob but cut the arms off rr with oxy :?  :(

[hingmy]

later arms are wider - if you go down this route remember the front radius arm bushes are wider too. The calipers and discs are interchangeable between vented and non-vented.

[coffee boy]

may invest in some castor correcting radius arms while im at it :lol:

[hingmy]

good chap - QT are very nice. ERr have you got a lift to correct for though?

[coffee boy]

yea got 3" lift but gunna get ome 2" soon