AuthorTopic: Cam Belt  (Read 6406 times)

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Offline MTyrrell

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Cam Belt
« on: February 01, 2005, 22:58:17 »
Can anyone give me a rough idea how much it will cost to get a garage to change a cam belt on a 2.5 TD land rover engine, local diesel specialist job rather than a main dealer garage.
 I would do it by self but I don't fancy messing too much with the timing of the diesel engine as I’ve herd it's easy to mess up.

Cheers
Matt
Regards
Matthew

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Offline Range Rover Blues

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Cam Belt
« Reply #1 on: February 02, 2005, 00:40:26 »
It depends how yu set the timing, and I'm no expert on Land Rovers, but on the Cavalier you measure the fuel pump lobe lift with a special probe and a DTI, then you do some maths and......  get the picture.
With a York diesel (transit) you stick drill bits through the belt pulleys to lock them in position then fit a new belt and tighten everything up.  Not hard!
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Offline Porny

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Cam Belt
« Reply #2 on: February 02, 2005, 07:33:08 »
Absolute piece of piddle with the correct tools!!!

Changed the cambelt on my 110" Td just after Christmas and couldn't have been easier.
Bought the tools from Peter at www.Difflock.com, including the one that most people don't bother with that locks the injector pump.
(I bought the timing belt kit that contains the puller to get the damper off and the locking pins, the crank locking tool and the locking pin for the injector pump)

Basically a pin in the flywheel, and one in fuel pump... line the dots up and jobs a good'un.

Only problem I had, and depending on the condition of yours, is I broke the pulley section on the front damper - had gone brittle with age.

Luckely managed to find one at a local breakers (though don't think there that expensive from the dealer)

You have to remove the pulley drives to use the crank locking tool/bar.  (some people don't bother with the tool, and use a breaker bar - one end on the bolt, the other on the chassis - and just bounce the starter, i.e. turn the igntion key, the force of which 'should' undo the bolt - but I really don't like this method)

Apart from that, just make sure you have all the gaskets required, a new belt and a tensioner (don't re-use the old one - chances are it 'WILL' be knackered).

Give a shout if you do decide to do it yourself, can give you some better instructions.  
Shame your not a bit closer, would quite happily give you a hand.


Ian
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Offline graham2306

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« Reply #3 on: February 03, 2005, 22:27:36 »
I paid my tame mechanic just under £100 to do it on my 2.5 non turbo, but it's much the same.  He said I should have done it myself.  All you need is a hub puller everything else locks with bolts.

Cost me that much because all of the water pump bolts sheared where they had corroded in the block and it took him a couple of hours to get them out.  A couple of hours labour from him should have been £30 but he only charged me for one because he took the air wrench to the bolts because he has a bad wrist at the moment.  He reckons if he had put a spanner on them he would have felt how bad they were and heated them first.  I understand it is quite common for the bolts to go and he had even ordered replacements before he started.

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Offline MTyrrell

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Cam Belt
« Reply #4 on: February 03, 2005, 23:55:24 »
thanks, will get an estimate from my garrage and price it up against the cost of the required tools.
Regards
Matthew

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Offline karloss

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« Reply #5 on: February 04, 2005, 01:52:48 »
Sure I've seen the full set of tools advertised for a bit under the ton somewhere.
Cheers, Karl..


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Offline Porny

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Cam Belt
« Reply #6 on: February 04, 2005, 08:14:55 »
Quote from: "karloss"
Sure I've seen the full set of tools advertised for a bit under the ton somewhere.


most likely www.difflock.com
click here and look under Difflock tools and servicing (or the 'engine service and repair section)

You should find the complete kit to change your cambelt - also allows you to change crank/cam seals. - £99.99 inc vat (plus postage)
(Excellent piece of kit!!!)

Depending on the spec of the engine, you should have a two piece damper and pulley drive (i.e. the bit that drives the belts for the alternator and water pump, pas etc should be bolted to the main damper).
You can confirm whether you've got the two piece set up by putting your fingers inside the recess on the damper pulley drive and feeling for one large bolt and four smaller ones - it is the four bolts that you are feeling for, as this signifies the two piece set up (hope this make sense :? )

If you have got the two piece setup, then also consider buying the cranshaft locking tool - also from difflock - which I think is about £42 (ish)... this makes life a lot easier!!!


Then all you need to buy is....

1x new cambelt
1x new pulley/tensioner unit
1x front cover gasket
1x water pump gasket
Some anitfreeze to top up when water pump is refitted
1x thread lock to put on damper bolt when refitted

I would also consider changing the front cover seal, the crank seal (same part number as the front cover seal)and the cam seal - as they do have a habit of leaking.



Ian
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