AuthorTopic: Waterproofing 3.5EFI  (Read 4536 times)

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Offline L90OOK

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Waterproofing 3.5EFI
« on: November 30, 2006, 18:11:44 »
Hi

Any tips on waterproofing a 3.5EFI for wading?  Have snorkel! :D
I heard something about putting a breather on dizzy :?:
Do these engines need wading plugs?  :roll:
Cheers
Did everyone see that?  Because I will NOT be doing it again!

 

Offline hairyasswelder

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Waterproofing 3.5EFI
« Reply #1 on: November 30, 2006, 18:34:05 »
Hi mate
The engine V8, does not use wading plugs but... the g/box and diff do and if you are lucky they are still in place, Square head bolt in a 'spare'threaded hole  :shock:
The diffs transfer box and gearbox use breathers which can be extended to run up the snorkle
There are many ideas about how the dizzy is w/proofed, you can buy a kit to include the coil too, just make sure you got a good set of leads and cap before you start  :lol:
Hope of help  :wink:
Steve
'88 RR 3.5 efi, an on going project :o) evolving daily/slowly

Offline L90OOK

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Waterproofing 3.5EFI
« Reply #2 on: November 30, 2006, 19:07:14 »
Thanks for the info

Any idea where to get the dizzy/coil waterproofing kit from?  :roll:

Cheers
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Offline Skibum346

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Waterproofing 3.5EFI
« Reply #3 on: November 30, 2006, 22:13:01 »
Quote from: "L90OOK"
Thanks for the info

Any idea where to get the dizzy/coil waterproofing kit from?  :roll:

Cheers


DingoCroft do them as do Tuff Toys (Melton Mowbray).

I've used them successfully on two V8's but as al;ready posted, you need a good set of leads and another tip is to use Motorbike chain wax on the block end to waterproof connection to spark plug.[/url]

Offline Range Rover Blues

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« Reply #4 on: December 01, 2006, 02:07:18 »
I had the tough toys kit, it was c***.  Within a year I was scraping the remians of it off as a sticky goo.  I just use white grease all over everything now.
Blue,  1988  Range Rover 3.5 EFi with plenty of toys bolted on
Chuggaboom, 1995 Range Rover Classic
1995 Range Rover Classic Vogue LSE with 5 big sticks of Blackpool rock under the bonnet.

Offline Skibum346

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« Reply #5 on: December 01, 2006, 09:47:46 »
Quote from: "Range Rover Blues"
I had the tough toys kit, it was c***.  Within a year I was scraping the remians of it off as a sticky goo.  I just use white grease all over everything now.


I agree that they are susceptible to problems with I think it's petroleum based products. I've just had to do the same on my latest vehicle. Previous owner had fitted the cap, then smeared vaseline around the cable where they go into the glove. As a result, the rubber goes through a chemical change and has a very low melt tempreature.

That said, the two other vehicles I've used it on, I kept the cap clear of any greases etc and everything was fine.

Have to admit, not sure why they don't use a rubber that is more suyited to the under bonnet environment... :?

Offline andycwb

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« Reply #6 on: December 01, 2006, 21:19:55 »
I'm a fan of thrasher's approach - motorcycle chain wax.  Waterproof and not too messy.  Seems to have held the Dakar together so far.

Andy
"You came here in *that thing*?  You're braver than I thought."
Td5 Discovery, TD5 Alive Re-Map, QT Diff Guards, Safari Snorkel
Steering Guard, FT-8900 radio, roof rack

Offline bullfrog

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« Reply #7 on: December 01, 2006, 21:36:58 »
You lucky git ..
You got all the bits I was sposed to be having.. :roll:
Anyhow well done for getting it for a good price.

Back to the post. :arrow:

A robinsons orange bottle 3 litre I think like they sell in iceland works well on the dizzy,
It needs cutting about but with 1 cable tie makes a very good splash guard.
Cover the leads in wax or WD40 each time off road and you should be fine.

With the dizzy use a small coke bottle or similar.
Cut it in half and feed all wires through lid .
Hold in place with jubilee clip and use heatshrink or lots of tape around lid wher wire come out. If you drill a small hole in bottle and fit self tapper you can squirt WD40 in periodicaly.

I have done this on all my V8s with no dramas

I usually put ECU on cubby box allong with relays and smear wax on airflow meter. Same on any electrics/conections. Any good wax would work.

Offline mark.yellow.series.3

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« Reply #8 on: December 01, 2006, 21:47:39 »
vasaline rots rubber, so dont use it on plug leads.
good set of leads, cap ect.
and white grease.

bobs your uncle 8)

Offline burgerman

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« Reply #9 on: December 01, 2006, 21:50:44 »
I have a rubber cap thingy, still sat in the garage, as in my  expreience i have seen them cause condensation/sweating inside the dizzy cap, maybe if used with a cap breather it might be fine ??  all i do is use good quality items and put a smear( and i mean a smear) of waterproof grease inside the sealing lip of the cap and copius amounts of white grease/wd40 in general electric areas, I have totally sealed the coil in a container also, works for me, but im sure there are many other tips out there still
TD5 with a few Tweaks ;o)
a bit more fuel friendly than the V8

Offline L90OOK

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« Reply #10 on: December 01, 2006, 21:58:04 »
Bullfrog...sorry :?

Thanks for advice...

Anyone know about tapping & venting dizzy?

Cheers
Did everyone see that?  Because I will NOT be doing it again!

 

Offline bullfrog

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« Reply #11 on: December 01, 2006, 22:22:53 »
Have a look a an SJ one as they are done from factory. Drill small hole. Fit threaded flange and fit tube. A decent plumbers merchant will have small ( I mean small) fitting suitable for the job for about £1. a piece of screen washer tube would do.

hingmy

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Waterproofing 3.5EFI
« Reply #12 on: January 04, 2007, 07:55:41 »
copied from a thread in defender section i think (orig post by Eeyore)

http://www.rhel.co.uk/tomcattech/dizzy.htm

Offline Range Rover Blues

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« Reply #13 on: January 04, 2007, 17:06:11 »
Don't tap and thread it, that implies the use of a METAL hose adapter, threaded in.  BAD IDEA.  Drill a hole, fit a rigid plastic tube that's a tight fit and use some silicone sealer.
Blue,  1988  Range Rover 3.5 EFi with plenty of toys bolted on
Chuggaboom, 1995 Range Rover Classic
1995 Range Rover Classic Vogue LSE with 5 big sticks of Blackpool rock under the bonnet.

Offline Garth

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« Reply #14 on: January 04, 2007, 23:41:00 »
See Avitar


Silicon Grease around mateing faces (leads and cap)
Its dead thick so wont pressure wash off
Melting point is 200 deg plus
But its also insulator so dont use directly on electrical connections
"WINNE"
1991 VOUGE SE A WITH LPG
LOOKS GOOD (BUT LOOKS CAN BE DECEIVING)
"TIGGER"
1995 SUZUKI VITARA
1" LIFT
225/75X15 AT'S

Offline Range Rover Blues

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« Reply #15 on: January 05, 2007, 01:50:39 »
So it's probably good to leather over the ends of your leads too then?
Blue,  1988  Range Rover 3.5 EFi with plenty of toys bolted on
Chuggaboom, 1995 Range Rover Classic
1995 Range Rover Classic Vogue LSE with 5 big sticks of Blackpool rock under the bonnet.

Offline treebloke

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« Reply #16 on: January 17, 2007, 08:30:26 »
Quote from: "Range Rover Blues"
I had the tough toys kit, it was c***.  Within a year I was scraping the remians of it off as a sticky goo.  I just use white grease all over everything now.


I know the guy that makes these and there were problems with stuff like WD40 with the early ones but he has changed the make up of them now.

I have had my 3.5 completely submersed (not intentionally) and it has still run.

They are better now than they were and they work.
CRAG - Shrosphire Team Leader

 






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