how high and wot size

[sub4x4]

hi all im thinking of up gradeing my suspentoin but not sure on 1" OR 2"
if i go for 2" wot size trye im i looking @ or 1" and get a wider trye im on 205x80x16 any sujestions welcome and which shockers

[Andy.]

Andy, I have a 1" lift and run on 235'70R's, I know that Disco Inferno has a set of Colway MT'S 245's and again 1" lift I think, both don't need any mods to the vehicle.

A 2" lift may give you more scope for larger tyres but some rear trim panel trimming may be needed  :?:

HTH.

[Ben]

Hi Andy

Don't have a lift myself on the 90, but many I've seen have used OME (Old Man Emu) shocks, which are meant to be some of the best.

As far as springs go, there's a lot of choices - Famous Four in Louth (Lincolnshire) do some pretty good kits.

Hope this helps...

Ben

[GaryP]

I have a 2" scorpion racing lift and 265/75x16 BFG's. Rear arch will need trimming or moving out a bit.

[toger]

Rear arch will need trimming or moving out a bit.

Out of interest, as I would like to know, won't you achieve the same result with a body lift?

[Wanderer]

FWIW
Any problems with catching the rear wheelarch will only become apparent under articulation. If they look like they are going to catch while sitting at the side of the road then they will catch when you start to articulate.
I have Amazon MT tyres fitted and they have extra mud knobbly bits to give more traction in mud/ruts. If the cutting of the rear wheel arch isn't right it will fold under.
I tested mine out by sticking ramps at opposite corners and ran the Disco up onto them. Then applied as much  jumping up and down on the rear bumper as possible.

When articulated the axle moves backwards towards the wheelarch.
I've not tried it since adding 2" lift but managed to pop the coils out at Tixover and still didn't catch.
Trimming the wheelarch is difficult to describe but I kept the cutting to the inside lip which leaves some strength to the wheelarch.
It should be possible to add a 1" or so piece of metal to force the bottom of the wheelarch out. This would go where the bottom of the rear quarter bolts to the "mud flap plate" thereby "spragging" the lower part of teh wuarter panel out of harms way.
I am using standard offset LR wheels. If you use any other steel wheels they have a deeper dish so the tyre ends up even nearer the wheel arch.

Also with those wheels I found that the inside of the front tyres then caught on the frnt bumper/skirt when on full lock. Doesn't happen with a winch bumper though.

All food for thought. All on a 1993 200.

Ed

[Wanderer]

You'll more than llikely need to adjust the stops on the steering to stop the tyres rubbing the radius arm.
I had to with 235 70 16 MT. I can't imagine the lock (or lack of it) with 265's
Ed

[GaryP]

I can't imagine the lock (or lack of it) with 265's
Ed[/quote]


I did have to adjust the bump stops, but not a great deal.
The only problem i've had with 265's is the rear arch, but it's quite easy to push the arch out like you said in your previous post.
I had loads more problems with 33x12.50's on my last RR...the front and rear arches needed trimming.

[themudmurderer]

im running 285/75's now. they rub slightly and i have all reafy trimmed the wings slightly. steering look is bad!!!
mike

[MZ6666]

I HAVE A 2" PRO COMP LIFT AND USE 235/8516 MT'S ON AMERICAN 8 SPOKES. THIS GIVES A WIDER STANCE BUT WITHOUT FAT TYRES WHICH CAN "FLOAT ON MUD". I DID FOLD BACK THE LAST CORNER OF THE BACK ARCHES. FRONT WAS FINE.
ITS ALSO WORTH GETTING EXTENDED BRAKE HOSES
WHOLE LOT SEEMS TO WORK WELL ON AND OFF THE ROAD