Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Defender => Topic started by: Ollie on May 23, 2005, 19:41:56
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Do I need 'floating point' tools to replace and setup the wheel bearings on my 110? Having bought the bearings and 'assumed' it was a fairly straight forward job, I've read that I need to correctly set up the shims as I re assemble the hub :?:
What would be the consequence if I didn't check this 'minute' measurement, drastic? I don't want to shorten the life of the bearings either.
Any help/suggestions much appreciated, ta,
Ollie.
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You shouldn't need a floating point to replace the wheel bearing. At least I haven't used one before (so I could be doing it wrong)
Or are you replaceing the front hubs as well, sounds like you doing several jobs at the same time?
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Ollie you need some advice from Guy110, the 'bearingmeister'
He has done more bearings than youve had hot dinners
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Here I am. Done some before tea!
No idea what I'm doing though :evil: :evil: :evil:
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Guy, aka, Bearingmeister,
All I have is an exploded diagram of the hub assembly. Is it a case of remove, replace bearings and refit in reverse order? Do I need any special tools for this job, is there any pitfalls I should be aware of?
Many thanks,
Ollie.
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You need a hub nut spanner and some circlip pliers. Refitting is the reversal of removal but make sure you get the seals in square and that the outer bearing race is seated correctly.
Spin the hub as you do it up to seat the new bearings and make sure you do not overtighten each nut. Don't forget the lock washer and use lots of decent grease.
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I didnt think that you had to shim wheel bearings
:?:
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I didnt think that you had to shim wheel bearings
:?:
You don't. I'm assuiming that was a reference to the shim(s) between the driving member and the circlip.
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Shims are prob for the swivel housing
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You need a hub nut spanner and some circlip pliers. Refitting is the reversal of removal but make sure you get the seals in square and that the outer bearing race is seated correctly.
You'll need a drift and a hammer too in order to get the shells out of the hub.
It is a fairly simple job.. just give yourself plenty of time.
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It is a fairly simple job..
Eh :shock: :shock: :shock: :lol: :lol:
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Eh, what ?
It is a simple job... you ought to know better than anyone :-)
Or was that "eh ?" directed at my comment re. the shells....
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Eh, what ?
It is a simple job... you ought to know better than anyone :-)
Or was that "eh ?" directed at my comment re. the shells....
Both :lol: :lol: If it were that simple I wouldn't get it wrong all the time :oops: :oops: :oops: .
What do you mean by shells?
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The bearing comes in 2 parts... the race (the bit with the rollers in it) and the shell (or seat) which is (in this case) pushed into the hub.
When you change a bearing, you need to change both parts of it.
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Found a piccy :
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Good old British Timken taper roller bearings........................ :roll:
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Ah! That's the proper name. I've always called them the outer race.
I always change them but have always wondered why?
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Ah! That's the proper name. I've always called them the outer race.
I always change them but have always wondered why?
The seat will be matched to the race i.e. matching pair - leave the old seat in and put a new race in may get even more premature wear (although I'd imagine in your case that wouldn't matter :wink: :lol: )
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Don't quote me on the name... again.. that is what I've always called them.
You need to change both parts because they wear in sympathy, so when you put a new bearing in, it really needs to be on a new seat.
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That looks like just what I got in me hand :(stoopid):
I also bought the rubber bearing seal that sits behind the second bearing, and the driving member gasket, just to be sure :(thinkhard):
Ollie
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OK, so, I didn't get very far;
I managed to remove the brake pads, that was it. The top swival bolt securing the bracket that holds the brake pipe can't bet got at with a socket. So, a 17mm open ended spanner was tried, no purchase as half the width of the head is obscured with the afore mentioned bracket.
So, look to cut the bracket and brake pipe off, remake later. The bleed nipple is shot to pieces, infact, the whole brake caliper has badly corroded. Are these expensive? I can't remove it anyway as the bolts are a strange star shape?
Also noted shock weeping, I think that's an MoT failure?
[!Expletive Deleted!]
Ollie.
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I don't fiddle with the brakes. Just undo the star bolts. Its a 13mm by the way and then move the calipher out of the way. Don't need to worry on the back as its drums.
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I can't remove the caliper without removing the top swival bolts as the flexable hose terminates there and is solid brake pipe from there to the caliper, so, unfortunately, I have to somehow work out how to remove this awkward bracket.
Although, looking at the caliper, I think I might have to renew it anyway as its badly corroded :(
Cheers,
Ollie.
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you need to remove the flexible pipe union from the metal bracket, then you can get to the two bolts holding the bracket onto the top of the swivel housing.
i replaced mine with cap-head bolts (can be removed with a hex key or hex hey socket) they are a higher spec bolt than the standard part (12.8 tensile rating as oposed to 10.something) so no worries about not using standard parts. they are considerably easier to remove than regular bolts.
if you (gently) wire brush the pipe union you'll see how it comes apart.
the caliper mounting bolts can be removed with a standard 12 point 13mm spanner or socket, they are very tight, and locktited in.
you'll need a hub nut spanner (52mm i think) they can be bought for about a fiver, don't try to remove the hub nuts with a hammer and chisel its the monkey method and you will regret it.
the bearings are an fairly straight forward job, just don't leave it until they are totally knackered or full of mud as you'll be buying a new stubb axle aswell.
if you don't have any circlip pliers don't worry, you can remove the drive member with the half-shaft still attached...
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if you don't have any circlip pliers don't worry, you can remove the drive member with the half-shaft still attached...
That depends on the CV joint... the outer shaft is part of the CV on a lot of models so you have to remove the circlip before you can remove the driving member ;-)
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I have replaced both the inner and outer bearings. I managed to get the caliper off, but the bleed nipple was completely knackered, so I order a genuine LR part from JC. I put new brake pads in both sides, bled both front calipers and would you Adam and Eve it, she flew through her MoT \:D/
11 year old Diesel engine with only 0.97% on the emmissions:-)
Thanks to all for advice, very happy.
Also bought a new Rover 75 Tourer on the weekend, the Freelander had to go with the addition of another baby. VERY Impressed, bargin too :(contented):
Cheers
Ollie