Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Discovery => Topic started by: NIVAD on August 11, 2011, 03:38:45
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Ok ive done a lift on disco and changed loads of other bits too try and get rid of vibration but still it persists, any ideas?? (comes through steering wheel at 18mph)
vibration goes with front prop removed.
changed---
tried different wheels
hd springs 2"+ -vibration started
loosed bushes on arms-got better?
fitted 3 degree correction arms and polybushes
front wide angle prop
adjustable panhard rod
Fitted medium duty springs too front and vibration became berable.
put old prings on just for the hell of it and too be honest wouldnt of noticed it except i was looking??
Any ideas?
Cheers
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vibration goes with front prop removed.
Is that the answer ?,try changing for a known good one,also check the flange bearings on the diff and front prop out put for excessive play.
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fitted new wide angle front prop
still same
cheers
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it might be the diff pinacle bearing or the output bearing in your transfer box
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Hi, what sort of vibration? is it forcing the steering wheel to move or is it like holding onto a power drill on hammer setting? how quickly does it go away after 18mph?
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The first time it almost shook the steering wheel out of my hands.
but it has calmed down a lot since its got lower
Cheers
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How are the Swivel bearings and the Preload on them?
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Panard bushes breaking down... it was on mine anyway.. i spent a small fortune pretty much changing the entire front end of my car in the end it cost me 6.95, worth a look at least
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Put new bushes in th new adjustable panhard rod.
Driverside swivel hub was pitted so i did this the other week- no difference.
Thinking back i did fit some offroad tyres that where out of balance and run for a few hundred miles????
But no obvious play anywhere?
The next thing too change might be the steering arms and track rod ends for hd sumo bar?
And steering damper?
I did weld angle iron onto existing steering arms for strength?
cheers
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Whether it's the cause of this problem or not, your prop is a problem. You lift the car 2 " and the gearbox UJ goes fomr about 3Dgree to 6 or more. The imbalance causes a pulsing and depending on other factors this becomes aparrent at some point or other.
Add castor correction and you straighten out the axle prop (and increasse the gearbox Uj angle). Now you only have one UJ pulsing, the axle Uj is straight and as such not absorbing the pulses form the gearbox end. Result, it gets a lot worse.
A wide-angle prop will do nothing, it still has UJs in it. You need Cardan jointed prop from a TD5 or similar.
Ask me how I know.........
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Was going too try one of those props, but after following loads of suggestions that cost a packet i wanted too try before i buy if you know what i mean?
But i have found a reasonably priced one now so maybe ill get one?