Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Series Land Rovers => Topic started by: brixworth-alan on June 20, 2008, 20:47:56
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What products do people find that are best for getting rid of surface rust and then keeping it at bay?
Sizewise- I have everything from the speedo casing, via a fuel tank to a chassis to de-rot, and I only want to do it the once!
any advice very welcome.
Alan
....and they told me Landy's don't rust because they're Aluminium.....
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There is a chemical way wiht electrolosys that I know but cant remember the formula. Its v.good (according to people who I trust) and gets in all the nooks and crannys. Ill try to dig it out.
The worst thing is that even aluminimum rusts (well bi-metalic corrosion anyway)
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depends, the chassis i would be inclined to cut out and plate. Other areas clean up with a wire brush attachement on a air tool / cordless drill, treat with a brush on gel preventative then prime etc. I do recall a article/ survey a few years back with regards to the rust eaters and preventatives in a motoring mag that stated most if not all areas treated started to rust and rot again within several months of treatment, only one brand out of all tested seemed to do the job properly but i can't remember what it was called and it was a long time ago...
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Hammerite and waxoyl! where looks don't matter as much(fuel tank n chassis) paint hammerite on thick and waxoyl over the top!
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My experience of Hammerites is that they are too brittle for use on a chassis. Twisting of the chassis and then stone chippings would cause said Hammerite to chip and flake off. I recommend some decent chassis paint, I would expect any decent paint motor store to have some available.
I am not keen about wax oiling the chassis of a vehicle that may likely need repairs in the near future either, since the stuff is lovely to dribble off onto you while you're working away with the welder and smudges when you try to get it off. Not only that, but it is quite combustible too.
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Hammerite and waxoyl! where looks don't matter as much(fuel tank n chassis) paint hammerite on thick and waxoyl over the top!
Must agree. Deffinately the best £ for £ way of protecting the chassis. I'v injected my chassis with waxoyl just for even more protection.
Darren
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i must admit that for my current one i have bought a block of bitumen resin, broke it up into small pieces in a old saucepan, blowtorched it and painted it on the chassis, looks a bit rough at first, but once you have a thick enough layer i then heat up the coated area until it just starts to melt and blends into itself, sets like rubber and hardens off after a few months, takes forever to apply and watch out for drips...they bloody hurt when they hit bare skin...
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Thanks everyone- on the series 2 forum the consensus seems to be something called POR-15 'hardnose' paint from Frosts for the chassis- hammerite looks the best option for my fule tank- once I get several pinholes plugged!
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- hammerite looks the best option for my fule tank- once I get several pinholes plugged!
Er... I'd suggest a new fuel tank as the best option - under £50 and less chance of a big bang if you were thinking of welding it. If it's holed it's probably like tissue paper all over.
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It's only holed because it sat off the landy and in the rain for 2 years- some surface rust pitted through from the sides.
I wouldn't dream of welding one with any fuel in (!) but thanks for the thought.
On the topic of rust.....there seems to be a consensus:
Small parts- vinegar! I've tried this and it works a treat. Pickle things like bolts for 2-3 days and they come up like new.
Big stuff (like Chassis)- Frosts POR-15.- a sort of 'mans' Hammerite, which i haven't used yet but hear good things about.
cheers
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I found auto trader sorted out the rusty rear chassis on one of my old series 3's!!! :lol: Now sombody elses problem. Still in touch so when I hear he ahs replaced the chassis I will make an offer to buy it back :lol:
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I wouldn't dream of welding one with any fuel in (!) but thanks for the thought.
here's one to ponder over........................... I was told that the best way of welding a tank is to fill it to the brim with fuel :shock: Because its the fumes that ignite, by filling it means no gap for fumes! ????????????????????????
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my old series had the tank welded up all along a seam. No idea how they did it but braver person than me!
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I've heard that running your car exhaust into the tank for a while can neutralise the explosive fumes contained therein, but proffesionals will steam cleana fuel tank before daring to heat it.
Note, MIG welding can often be too porous for a fuel tight seal.
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I did weld it up, however MIG has turned out to be be too porous and the contents weep out. Best laid plans and all that ....
Plan B was to use a metal-filled epoxy resin, and so far this seems to be water-tight and flexible enough too. The product is recommended for crank-cases so ought to be able to take heat and a certain amount of expansion.
I'll let you know how I get on
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I did weld it up, however MIG has turned out to be be too porous and the contents weep out. Best laid plans and all that ....
Plan B was to use a metal-filled epoxy resin, and so far this seems to be water-tight and flexible enough too. The product is recommended for crank-cases so ought to be able to take heat and a certain amount of expansion.
I'll let you know how I get on
Frosts tank repair:
http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8232&frostProductName=Fuel%20Tank%20Sealer%20(US%20Quart,%20946ml) (http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8232&frostProductName=Fuel%20Tank%20Sealer%20(US%20Quart,%20946ml))
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There is a chemical way wiht electrolosys that I know but cant remember the formula. Its v.good (according to people who I trust) and gets in all the nooks and crannys. Ill try to dig it out.
The worst thing is that even aluminimum rusts (well bi-metalic corrosion anyway)
For parts that will fit in a bucket, or anything else that will hold water (plastic window boxes for doing springs), electrolysis is great. All you need is a battery charger, a bucket, water, soda crystals, and a sacrificial chunk of iron / steel (NOT stainless).
Rather than tell you directly what to do, try google with electrolytic rust removal, there's loads of great sites on this. Let me just tell you that it works, I did my engine fan in a bucket in two goes, the rust is gone, and it leaves a nice clean metal ready for paint (or just oiled for now). This is my preferred way of removing rust, as you can just leave it. BEWARE that this process creates hydrogen, so do this in a place with plenty of air - don't do this is a dark shed, then turn on the light when you go in...
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Practical classics has a 'how to' guide this month.
Vinegar's still working for me at the moment :)
Bit smelly though, so i'll probably build myself an electrolysis tank at some point.