Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Range Rover => Topic started by: yellow series 2a on February 24, 2008, 21:34:22
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Hello
I am going to buy a lift kit for my RR as i have big tyres for it!! how easy is it to fit a lift kit? where to buy on from many thanks! The tyres i want to fit are 265/75R16
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DODDLE MATE, JUst drown everything in wd40 for a few days before taking apart to help, but its a simple process, just watch you dond bust a brake pipe up front, but not a lot to wrong at all.
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DODDLE MATE
Exactly what I was going to say.
Jack under axle and lift.
Wheel off.
Axle stands under chassis.
Lower jack under axle.
Bottle jack between axle and chassis will give more movement.
For 2" lifts you can probably get away without spring compressors but as Guardian says - watch you don't stretch a brake line.
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Agreed only PITA is getting front shock tower off if bolts snap on turret ring, advisbale to get some nice new shiny ones, assume you will be putting new shocks on as well ?
As far as body is concerned, I am running 235/85 x 16 on mine and it just meant a bit of a trim of the rear wheel arch on full flex. Also watch the offset of wheels I run Disco steels and have no issues.
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Cheers guys thanks very much for your help
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Hello Mate,
I did mine with spring compressors, but you can drop the axle down enough just to fit them with out compressors.
It is easy,
You can get them from all over the place,
the LR mags are a good source.
If you do not want to fit 2" longer Springs & shocks you can always do a 2" body lift,
but this is a more detailed bit of work.
I trimmed off some of the wheel arches and fitted fibre glass arch extensions.
You may get away with it but be prepareed to chop a bit of metal away if they touch.
The main thing to watch is that you don't stretch the brake pipes,
it is best to fit longer brake pipes although I never did and my mates are all 2" lifted without fitting the longer brake pipes.
The 265's are a bit wider than normal and you might find that they rub on the "hockey sticks"
you can easily get over this problem by moving your steering stops to compensate.
Cheers,
Ron.
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Perhaps we should mention that is you have ARBs then it is harder to do, plus once you have fitted the spings and shocks you may then decide you need a few more items to get the thing handling like it does now.
I reckon that springs/shocks are about half the budget of a well sorted, lifted RRC.
See my profile (http://members.mud-club.com/profiles/Range%20Rover%20Blues/vehicle) for some ideas.
Whilst there are those who say you don't need to fit castor correction to a lifted RRC just think how annoyed you'll be when those new tyres get scrubbed off on the edges due to the lousy dynamic camber you will have with negative castor and positive KPI.
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NEVER HAD Scrubbed tyres on any of the 2" lifts ive done, and cover more miles than most of you, they are on the road all the while, even a 90 i had a 4" lift on, yes the steering was twitchy, but there is no uneven tyre ware, just make sure you get the track reset after youve done it, most people forget this i think, it does need altering, and makes the difference.
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Plusgas is a lot better than WD40 for unsticking rusty bolts - spent about a day wrestling with a jammed bumper bolt and WD40, the other one came off in 10mins with Plusgas :afro:
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Springs and dampers are easy to change assuming you don't need to do any repairs (ie. ruted through mounts) whilist your at it. I changed the springs on my V8 on afternon with little more than a socket set and 2 jacks (one to lift the RR up and one to push the axle down), where as the previous lift involved grinding, welding etc. to remake one of the spring mounts.
It depends just what form of a lift you get as when as the wheels and tyres in question as to whether you can get a 265/75 to fit without trimming the arches as well. A lot of "Lift kits" use standard length but stiffer springs to get the height increase which will limit upwards wheel movement and increase clearance for bigger tyres. If you use longer springs with the same or only a moderate increase in spring rate then you can end up with no more clearance afterwards than you had before.
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Whilst there are those who say you don't need to fit castor correction to a lifted RRC just think how annoyed you'll be when those new tyres get scrubbed off on the edges due to the lousy dynamic camber you will have with negative castor and positive KPI.
See, I told you someone would tell you ;)
Well I didn't fit castor correction straight away and I wrecked a set of tyres by rounding the edges off them.