Mud-club

Vehicle & Technical => Defender => Topic started by: kevbutty on November 26, 2004, 19:45:47

Title: Rear crossmember replacement
Post by: kevbutty on November 26, 2004, 19:45:47
Have had my defender off the road the last couple of weeks whilst I replaced the rear crossmember. Not to difficult to do apart from the wiring which runs through the chassis. It needs to be disconnected and pulled back through the chassis so it can be cut and welded. I ended up cutting it in the rear arches and re-soldering it afterwoods.
Had to get a mate to help me with the welding aswell.
But very pleased with the final resutls though  =D>

Makes the rest of the car look very tatty now !!

Here are a few photo's :-
Title: Rear crossmember replacement
Post by: MUSKIE on November 26, 2004, 22:13:26
i find it a bit worrying that a 10 year old car should need such a big chunk of chassis replacing espeicially at the price 90's command.
Title: Rear crossmember replacement
Post by: Ben on November 26, 2004, 23:37:52
Too true, but it'll not be long before mine needs doing. The Dixon Bate that was fitted when I bought it is designed in such a way to collect water between the bottom of the cross member and a piece of angle that the drop unit bolts into.

Mine's a '95...

Cheers

Ben
Title: Rear crossmember replacement
Post by: hobbit on November 27, 2004, 16:20:20
Got a lightweight needs one of them doing, got the part just not done yet, big piece of spares to sit around, it keeps reminding me when i catch my arm on it
Title: Don't forget the wires
Post by: Neill on November 27, 2004, 19:45:35
This summer I also replaced the rear cross member on my 110. Went about it in just the same way - cutting all the wires and soldering them afterwards. I had everything put back together and was about to begin welding when I realised that I had forgotten to pull the wires back through. Doh!

At least the second time everything was easier.
Title: Rear crossmember replacement
Post by: hobbit on November 27, 2004, 22:35:52
I was contemplating whether to run the cables inside the chassis after fitting the cross member, or pin them aling the chassis on the inside edge near the top

If you ever have to weld the chassis on the wired side, always the possibility of damage, at least on the outside you can see the thing
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