Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Mitsubishi => Topic started by: discodevil on February 21, 2007, 17:09:56
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Hi I have a mk1 mitsubishi shogun, leaf springs on the back and tortion bars on the front........but i want to spring over axle it........can this be done with the tortion bars in place or do i have to take them off??
What do i need to do to make this work?
Thanks
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There is no front axel to do it to certainly on a mark2, it has independant suspention on the front. Try posting in the Mitsi forum :)
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I'd imagine coil-over dampers and removing the torsion bars. DO you think this will free up more travel then?
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Im just after extra ground clearance lol thats all
and i thought that spring over axle would e the easiest way because i heard that shackles weaken your leaf springs???????
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Well if you had torsion bars, I'd expect to find twin wishbone under there, if it's got a beam axle I'd love to know how it works.
Anyway, common prcatice with torsion bars it to move the mounting at one end to lift the car.
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apparently you can lift the taution bars 2" but you ned to drill a new hole through it and then put a bolt or summit like that through it??? like how axle stands work?
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Confused now, take us some pipctures mate.
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Will do..........i will in the morning when its bright lol and post them in ma gallery
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undo the torsion bars(with the truck supported.
Usually the end will pull off a spline and you can refit it 1 spline further round, thus preloading the torsion bar, and raising the truck.
This makes the ride damned hard, and reduces suspension flex.
To do a spring over stresses the leaves HELL more than a shackle lift. Its got to be done right and new spring seats welded on right, and gives the springs a damned hard time cos you can now flex the bejaysus outof them.
Theres a reason why independant suspension lift kits cost so much, its cos theres a lot to do if you do it right.
Try bigger tyres, its the easiest way foreward for ground clearance.
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This makes the ride damned hard, and reduces suspension flex.
If you really think about it it doesn't alter the ride hardness at all as you are not putting any more weight on the front to tension the torsion bar more. You are in fact just moving or dropping the wishbones down further, the 'suspension flex' stays exactly the same - within it's same limits :wink:
BTW I've also given an answer with pics in the mitsi forum
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Hi......
My advice.......pre-tension the torsion bars......put on extended shackles....& raise the body with a body lift.........then fit bigger tyres! It may also be worth investing in OME torsion bars......far stronger than the standard ones!
I've got a 2" suspension lift, a 3" body lift which has allowed 35" tyres to fit......volia! Lot's of ground clearance!
Sorry to disagree Mudlark.......but winding up the torsion bars makes the ride hellish hard! At least it does on the L200! Just ask my dentist! :D
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If i crank my torsion bars up an inch or so, is it necessary to get an alignment after?
Have been told different things.
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i want the ride to be able to withstand jumping the shogun and throwing it around, without being thrown round by the softness in springs and damaging the body panels
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pretensioning the torsion bars is going to result in the inital 'take up' (cant think of any way to word it) of the bars being lost as they are now pre-loaded, it will stiffen the ride.
Mark 2 is dual wishbones on the front and there isnt a great deal of space in there, certainly not enough for a spring. all very tight and well put together down there. I think the whole suspention layout is actually more compact than most cars are.
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If you wind the torsion bar up against the bump stops you will tension it, until that point you are just altering the position of the front suspension.
BTW it's not my idea :P got it through researching suspension lifts on the Mitsi range :wink: :lol: :lol:
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If i crank my torsion bars up an inch or so, is it necessary to get an alignment after?
Have been told different things.
ive gone up a couple inches at the front, and my tyres are fine. Dont think it would hurt to have em checked to be sure.
if the Mk1 is the same as the Mk2 jack the front up to take the stress off the front, you will 2 17mm spanners to undo the lock nuts. Adjust the thread to you are effectly turning the bolt into the assembly, repeat on the other side. Dont go up more than a couple of inches, as it down place stress on your cv' joints and boots. Check that each side is exactly the same by measuring from the middle of the hub to the top of the wheel arch each side. You will find the ride err stiffer, and firmer, but in a good way :lol:
hope this helps :wink:
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Didnt think Mk1's had torsion bars!!!!
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Didnt think Mk1's had torsion bars!!!!
yep they do, its in here somewhere :lol:
http://www.pajerouk.co.uk/tech_gen1spec.htm