Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Range Rover => Topic started by: ScrumpyJack on December 10, 2006, 16:47:46
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Hi Peeps,
I’ve got a prob with the air suspension, again, on my 94 se.
This time the wife was driving along, came up to a round-about she said she heard a clonk? And the suspension went down and won’t come back up,
I drove the car home on the bump stops, not very comfy, now, when I start the car the compressor doesn’t come on at all, I’ve checked all the fuses, all fine,
If I turn the under seat switch on then off I get a solid click from the valve block, could it be a sticking valve, and the ecu has picked up the fault and dumped the air,
Is there anything else I can check, is there a way of temporarily pumping up the suspension so the wife can use it until sorted?
All help appreciated.
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I can't help a lpt but I did read somewhere, I think it was rangerovers.net about fitting Tee pieces with shreader valves in the line to each air spring so you could inflate manually in an emergency.
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I have only one thing to say..GET A SPRING CONVERSION
This problem is a pain in the a.. I replaced all my sensors thought it had sorted it 3 days later gone again..
Reset the system again was OK for a few days gone again
also replaced my maun unit under the seat
few days later gone again....a real pain it was my wifes car and she go
fed up with it in the end at the time a few years ago spring conversions
were a grand i have seen them now for 500 quid fitted
I think its the way to go. have spoken to many RR specialists and they all say the same think they are all seeing this problem on a reg. bacis
A real time consuming problem...Just a procces of ilimination
Good Luck....LEE
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Isn't it also linked into the pillar mounted switches for the interior lights (& tachometer)?
It requires all the signals to operate correctly.
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Your wright linked into other electric stuff
all it takes is a dip in the voltage or a
short...
And up or down it goes......a real time consuming fault
LEE
Good luck
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Well I know it makes sense to go coils but, the wife doe's like to pose, I would post a pic of her bling as she calls it, if I new how,
Anyway, I have heard you can pump the suspension up manually, would like to know how,
I personally think the valve block has seized and the ECU, bless its little socks has dumped air to put in the "safe ride" bad choice,
Going to change the valve block if no good think it's time for the coils :cry:
God bless Land rover :wink:
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SCRUMPY!!! oh you legend! also, phill is after that diff in dorking! pm me!
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Have you taken the time to read the manual, there are several conditions that cause the EAS to go into safe mode, including a compressor overheat. For it to deflate completely I'd suspect more than one fault. It takes about 5 minutes to work out what's troubling the ECU if you have access to Rovacom.
Don't listen to those people who tell you to go coil sprung, that's the chicken's way out. Also as you'll have to declare it as a modification on your insurance.
My LSE has EAS and it's the most stable car I've ever had for towing, you just have to make sure the trailer is loaded correctly because if it starts to snake you never feel a thing.
Anyway, don't just chuck money at it without knowing what's wrong, if you lived closer I'd have a look for you.
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Totall agree with the above, air suspention is brilliant, you have to have had it to really know how good it is; coils really do have to be a last resort.
Have a look at this:
http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/airsuspension/fieldrecovery.html
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I just found another article that looks remarkably similar:
http://www.rangie.com/articles_latest.php?id=5775
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Speak to Dennis
http://www.rover-renovations.com/
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Have you taken the time to read the manual, there are several conditions that cause the EAS to go into safe mode, including a compressor overheat. For it to deflate completely I'd suspect more than one fault. It takes about 5 minutes to work out what's troubling the ECU if you have access to Rovacom.
Don't listen to those people who tell you to go coil sprung, that's the chicken's way out. Also as you'll have to declare it as a modification on your insurance.
My LSE has EAS and it's the most stable car I've ever had for towing, you just have to make sure the trailer is loaded correctly because if it starts to snake you never feel a thing.
Anyway, don't just chuck money at it without knowing what's wrong, if you lived closer I'd have a look for you.
Yay,what he said
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Cheers TD90, sorted it with Phil,
Thanks wavey, that'll give me some reading for a while, looks interesting,
RRB you could always post me the rovacom for Christmas :lol: :lol:
But I do agree with you and want to keep the air,
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Right,
I,ve managed to bypass the ECU and can get the air bags to rise, turns out I have a leak in the right front bag, :cry:
But the leak only happens at normal ride height, if i pump it up a bit more it stops,
does anybody know of a way to stop a leak like that or is just a case of a new bag,
and is it because of the leak that the ECU has dumped the air,
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I know nothing about the range rovers air suspension, but that said would it not be possible to ditch all the electronics and just isolate the front and rear airbags so you could have a valve block and compressor operated from rocker switches in the cabin.
I know that there is a safety aspect to this but you would still be able to let all the air out if you had a leak on one bag, no different to having a puncture i would have thought.
at least it would be possible to find the cause of the problem without expensive diagnositic equipment,
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I know nothing about the range rovers air suspension, but that said would it not be possible to ditch all the electronics and just isolate the front and rear airbags so you could have a valve block and compressor operated from rocker switches in the cabin.
I know that there is a safety aspect to this but you would still be able to let all the air out if you had a leak on one bag, no different to having a puncture i would have thought.
at least it would be possible to find the cause of the problem without expensive diagnositic equipment,
well you can get manual inflation kits which you can manually pump the system up with if you have problems. Heard of people driving around with them like that for ages
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I've seen those kits, and do think it's sensible to have a back up like that, and might get a set for the car,
Anyway, I managed to get a replacement bag today from a nice chap on eBay, rangeroverheaven,
He went back into work to get me 1 and I drove down to get it,
Will be fitting it tomorrow and fingers crossed that will sort it out, well the leak anyway,
If the ECU still plays up, I might just try to wire up a switching panel so I can raise and lower the suspension as I want,
I'll let you know how I get on.
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Well air bag on, ECU still registering a fault :cry:
At least now when I bypass the ecu it stays up, think the rest can wait till after crimbo.
MERRY CHRISTMAS ALL
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I've seen those kits, and do think it's sensible to have a back up like that, and might get a set for the car,
Anyway, I managed to get a replacement bag today from a nice chap on eBay, rangeroverheaven,
He went back into work to get me 1 and I drove down to get it,
Will be fitting it tomorrow and fingers crossed that will sort it out, well the leak anyway,
If the ECU still plays up, I might just try to wire up a switching panel so I can raise and lower the suspension as I want,
I'll let you know how I get on.
He's a nice chap isn't he :)
You will now need to use a diagnostic to clear any fault in the sustem and unlike the engine ECU you can't just unplug it. I really love the consistancy of Land Rover ECU design, don't you?
Does it sit on the bumpo stops when under ECU control then or what? is the compressor running at all? how do you bypass the ECU exactly?
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[quote="Range Rover Blues
He's a nice chap isn't he :)
You will now need to use a diagnostic to clear any fault in the sustem and unlike the engine ECU you can't just unplug it. I really love the consistancy of Land Rover ECU design, don't you?
Does it sit on the bumpo stops when under ECU control then or what? is the compressor running at all? how do you bypass the ECU exactly?[/quote]
Yes, Yes he is,
Well the saga continues,
Now the rear of the car goe's down overnight, GREAT, will have to sort out yet another leak, but I can handle that 1,
and yes to the question, it does go down to bump stops when ECU is conected, god bless that little ecu :twisted:
As you say I prob need to get the system cleared to work, or I have more than 1 fault, although I have now changed the valve block, the pump, and a bag, what more does it want from me :cry:
ANYWAY this is isnt the most anoying thing at the moment,
after changing the bag and bypassing the ECU to pump up the air, I put the dog in the car and off I went, drove for about 5 mins, took the mut for an hours walk got back to the car and the bloody thing wouldn't start, :evil: :evil: :evil:
I tried and tried checking fuses and the like, but had to get the AA to recover me home in the end :cry:
He said there was no power to the injectors and sujested a relay, now I've had a look and cant find any bad relays, ( main fuel, fuel pump, and fuses )
any ideas,
P.S
bypassing the ECU is easy,
linking the the pins in the ecu loom,
1 = power
8 = pump
26 = valve inlet
10, 11, 27. 28 = seperate bags
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He's a nice chap isn't he :)
You will now need to use a diagnostic to clear any fault in the sustem and unlike the engine ECU you can't just unplug it. I really love the consistancy of Land Rover ECU design, don't you?
Does it sit on the bumpo stops when under ECU control then or what? is the compressor running at all? how do you bypass the ECU exactly?
Yes, Yes he is,
Well the saga continues,
Now the rear of the car goe's down overnight, GREAT, will have to sort out yet another leak, but I can handle that 1,
and yes to the question, it does go down to bump stops when ECU is conected, god bless that little ecu :twisted:
As you say I prob need to get the system cleared to work, or I have more than 1 fault, although I have now changed the valve block, the pump, and a bag, what more does it want from me :cry:
ANYWAY this is isnt the most anoying thing at the moment,
after changing the bag and bypassing the ECU to pump up the air, I put the dog in the car and off I went, drove for about 5 mins, took the mut for an hours walk got back to the car and the bloody thing wouldn't start, :evil: :evil: :evil:
I tried and tried checking fuses and the like, but had to get the AA to recover me home in the end :cry:
He said there was no power to the injectors and sujested a relay, now I've had a look and cant find any bad relays, ( main fuel, fuel pump, and fuses )
any ideas,
P.S
bypassing the ECU is easy,
linking the the pins in the ecu loom,
1 = power
8 = pump
26 = valve inlet
10, 11, 27. 28 = seperate bags
Just my tuppeny for you... We had an inconsistent problem with the EAS that was finally traced to a relay of some kind in the dashboard. It was assoiated with the ignition. Could it be possible that this is at the heart of your EAS problems and in your case it's also inhibited the ignition...?
Can't give any details as to the relay as it was our local experts (Douglass Motors @ Wolston) who sorted it out.
Good luck and stick with the EAS... the kids in the traffic queues love trying to explain it... "Dad... dad... that man made his car go up and down....... but he diiiiiiddddddd!" :twisted:
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Thanks for that, will have a look at those relays aswell after the new year now,
The wife and kids love Macky dees on a sat night when all the boy racers are about, park next to them lower to access, then up and away when the food is deliverd :lol: :lol:
mind you it does help if your car looks a bit bling, if I new how to post a pic on here i'd let you see,
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Thanks for that, will have a look at those relays aswell after the new year now,
The wife and kids love Macky dees on a sat night when all the boy racers are about, park next to them lower to access, then up and away when the food is deliverd :lol: :lol:
mind you it does help if your car looks a bit bling, if I new how to post a pic on here i'd let you see,
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Thanks for that, will have a look at those relays aswell after the new year now,
The wife and kids love Macky dees on a sat night when all the boy racers are about, park next to them lower to access, then up and away when the food is deliverd :lol: :lol:
mind you it does help if your car looks a bit bling, if I new how to post a pic on here i'd let you see,
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I should have mentioned before but when you turn on the ignition all 3 lights for the EAS should 'self-test' ie come on. Then the system should resume it's previous setting and all lights go out unless you had it in high profile. I'm going to guess here that your up and down buttons stay on, if so this is the warning of a fault, the dash light will also be on and this fault needs clearing from the ECU before you go any further.
I wouldn't suggest substituting an alternative ECU simply because it needs calibrating to your car, otherwise you could pick one up for the same price as an hour on testbook at the local stealer :roll:
Unlike the ABS and to an extent the EFi, the EAS is not meant to be fixed at home :evil:
Typically an air leak will not be detected by the ECU, it can 'work out' that a valve is stuck when one corner fails to rise.
It does know when the pump overheats, it also runs it for a fixed time. IIRC it runs for short periods if the temp sensor is faulty, or is it the pressure sensor :?
If the pump is FUBAR then the whole system will be let down, obviously.
Your next step is either replce the pump with a spare one (or strip it) or get the vehicle onto testbook/rovacom and get the faults read/cleared.
Try a few of the local specialists though.