Mud-club
Chat & Social => The Bar - General Chat => Topic started by: Jimbo on September 14, 2006, 17:21:42
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I've been in touch with the company who installed the winch setup on my 110, as the fitting plate states that the pull is restricted for safety reasons (I guess to stop the leccy board chaps from pulling poles over etc !) By 'increasing the pressure relief valve to 176bar' I can de-restrict the system.......but where would I find the pressure relief valve ?
The guy has emailed me a system schematic, but it's a .DWG file, so you need a CAD package to view it :roll:
Jim
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the pressure releif valve will be on the valve block.. it will probably look just like a nut on the side of the valve block.. Careful how much you turn it though, 1/8 of a turn on my pressure releif valve is equal to 200 psi
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Did you find out what winch it was after?
If its a 525 can you send me what he sent you? Mine is going to someone next week tobe set up. Mine is like yours, works but lacks power.
But as said its on the valve block.
Paul
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The winch is a Ramsey RPH8000, and it currently struggles to pull the skin off a rice pudding...............seems that its limited to 2000kgs pull, and 1000kgs hoist (switch on the dash to select hoist or drag). I've managed to find a bit of freeware that opens the CAD file they sent me, the pressure relief valve is on the valve block - but that's tucked away under the nearside wing, and you can't get it out without disconnecting all the pipework......and I'm guessing that if I do that, hydraulic fluid will pee out all over the place :roll:
Jim
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You really should be able to get to the PRV without taking the whole block out, unless they have been really numptys installing it. Please be very careful if your planning on adjusting the PRV get a profesional to do it, they should plumb a flow meter into the system which means they can work out what the PRV blows at now and set it to a new setting recommended by Ramsey.
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You really should be able to get to the PRV without taking the whole block out, unless they have been really numptys installing it. Please be very careful if your planning on adjusting the PRV get a profesional to do it, they should plumb a flow meter into the system which means they can work out what the PRV blows at now and set it to a new setting recommended by Ramsey.
The firm that fitted the system advise cranking the PRV up to 176bar, which should allow the winch to pull a max of 3600kgs......they suggest adjusting the PRV and then pulling a known weight (3600kgs) to make sure the adjustment works :shock:
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you want this: http://www.infograph.com/products/dwgviewer/
its a free viewer for dwg files :)
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you want this: http://www.infograph.com/products/dwgviewer/
its a free viewer for dwg files :)
Pukka, thanks Ian.
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You really should be able to get to the PRV without taking the whole block out, unless they have been really numptys installing it. Please be very careful if your planning on adjusting the PRV get a profesional to do it, they should plumb a flow meter into the system which means they can work out what the PRV blows at now and set it to a new setting recommended by Ramsey.
The firm that fitted the system advise cranking the PRV up to 176bar, which should allow the winch to pull a max of 3600kgs......they suggest adjusting the PRV and then pulling a known weight (3600kgs) to make sure the adjustment works :shock:
Umm thats interesting, I personally wouldn't like to do it that way or advise anyone to do it that way, Hydraulics can be extremely dangerous if set up inaccurately. If you are do go for that method I'd advise you do a visual check of all your hoses and fittings just to make sure nothing has chaffed through the rubber and started on the steel braiding etc, and when adjusting the relief valve do it in very small increments as said earlier an 1/8th of a turn can be an awfull lot!
Good Luck!
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Send me the DWg file and I will send it back as a jpeg
Darren
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Send me the DWg file and I will send it back as a jpeg
Darren
Thanks Darren,
Can you PM me your email addy.
Ta,
Jim
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Jim,
You should have had the Jpeg by now.... all okay??
Darren
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Jim,
You should have had the Jpeg by now.... all okay??
Darren
Yep, nice one - all sorted, might go start taking things apart this weekend now :roll:
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http://www.freedownloadscenter.com/Best/dwg-free-reader.html
this would have done the job for the fil, but glad to see all sorted :wink:
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Thanks for all your help so far.......
The system has an oil cooler plumbed in to it - there's a flow from the tank (with an electric pump inline) through the cooler (mounted in front of the main vehicle rad), the return line goes straight back to the tank.
I'm assuming that the cooler is there as in its previous lfe, the winch or tool outlet would have been used for long periods of time with the vehicle standing still- do I need to retain the cooler, as a few less pipes under the bonnet would help with other plans ?
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Jim how much capacity has your tank got?
I run a 35litre tank on my 130 and can winch for hrs or use the breaker for a good length of time before the oil gets too warm as I don't have a cooler, Are you just going to be occasional winching what plans do you have for the system?
Matt
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Tank capacity - no idea I'm afraid, its sited under the truck behind the drivers door (where a side locker would go).
I'm really not sure what the winch will be used for - so far I've dragged a couple of tree trunks out the way, and hauled my mate and his trailer out of the muck a couple of times. I've no plans for entering challenge or winching comps (who would in 110 anyway !), so I guess that the cooler can come out ?
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Well I'd have thought provided your tank is a reasonable size, you could roughly work it out WxLxH - a bit because it won't be brim full. you could remove the cooler if what you describe above is pretty much all it will get used for. Do you need to alter many hose lengths to remove the cooler though? as that could get expensive.
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It looks like the cooler is plumbed directly to and from the tank - so removal *should* be straightforward. I'm hoping that the pipes that I remove will have the correct unions on to allow me to move the valve block from its current location (under the front n/s wing top) to under the bonnet on the o/s.
Removing the oil cooler will also (hopefully) allow me to move the winch mount further inboard - in doing so, I hope to regain some approach angle !
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Just a point to note Jim. The oil cooler on mine is not for the winch, its for the gear box to stop it over heating when using the PTO. Just make sure its for the winch before you remove it.
Paul
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Just a point to note Jim. The oil cooler on mine is not for the winch, its for the gear box to stop it over heating when using the PTO. Just make sure its for the winch before you remove it.
Paul
Paul, good point. The drawing I have shows the cooler connecting directly to the oil tank, I will (of course !) trace the hoses back before disconnecting anything - and then of course I'll need something to plug the holes in the tank :roll: Might have to have a measure up and then find a friendly Pirtek man !