Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Defender => Topic started by: dew1911 on July 05, 2006, 18:24:24
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Is it possible to wire up just about any lamps across the roof of a 110? My grandads got two pairs of old Ford Lamps (2x Fogs and 2x Spots) that have there own little boxes and everything, so would it be a simple case of just wiring them up to the correct places and bolting them on, or am I missing something obvious.
Cheers,
David.
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yeh,
relays :lol: :lol:
ive got spots n fogs on the roof of mine wired in on 2 seperate switches
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See, this is why I ask before attempting anything...
Ok, so Relays, is that it then, and also, would it be better to try and get a bar to mount them on (Next time I'm at my mums I'll get pics of the lights)
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If you're not sure - Ring do a great spot wiring kit with wire, relay, fuse holder and switch. Only for 2 lights but you can easy add another 2 or use another kit.
I reckon you'd need a light bar - but what do I know cos I aint got a Defender.
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Look better on a light bar. I did mine with 2 relays both operating off one switch
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i'd be careful about mounting fogs up there...glare might be an issue...as well as them being illegal for road use, AFAIK fogs have to be below a certain height? driving lamps are fine.
ps dont drill any holes in your roof...they WILL LEAK.
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See, this is why I ask before attempting anything...
Ok, so Relays, is that it then, and also, would it be better to try and get a bar to mount them on (Next time I'm at my mums I'll get pics of the lights)
And don't forget to fuse the live feed, and use cable that can carry the total load.
(not wishing to teach you to suck eggs, but here's how to calculate what cable and fuse size to use)
Take the total wattage of the lights and divide by the voltage, the answer will be the current draw in amps.
eg: you want to run 2 x 100W lamps from a 12v supply
200W / 12v = 16.6A.............so the cable needs to be able to handle at least 16 amps (I'd run 25A cable), with probably a 20A fuse. Don't ever be tempted to use a fuse rated higher than the cable !
And please, don't use them horrible scotchlok connectors - crimp or solder is best.
Jim
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I'll get some pics of the lights - Not sure what kind of bar I'd need as they are not usual Roof Lamps.
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Will your alternator be up to running all those lights?
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If you're unclear of the legal issues, there's a link to the appropriate bits of law here:
http://forums.mud-club.com/viewtopic.php?t=24709
Doesn't cover any of the technical questions though! :wink:
HTH
cheers
8)
Eeyore
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Doesn't cover any of the technical questions though! :wink:
Which are, of course, covered in the Workshop Section of Mud Club (http://members.mud-club.com/library/?articleid=2)
Regards
Wolfie
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Thanks so far people, as for the Altenator (SP?), I'm not really sure, I know we need a new battery at some stage though.
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i'd be careful about mounting fogs up there...glare might be an issue...as well as them being illegal for road use.
1-glare,not a problem,found best way to cure it was move the lights as far forward as pos & put black tape round the edge,this cits the glare right down
2-legalitys,ive got fogs & spots on mine & follewed a jammer home one night with them on at range (100 metres+) & you just make out the back o the car,just got to remember they are on & switch them off as neccesary
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Precisely....... if you can switch them off its OK
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glare should be ok on a defender my mates 90 is fine, its my disco that glare is a pain! tried tapeing up bottom edge of lights, sort of worked :D
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Mine HERE (http://members.mud-club.com/profiles/TRUG/gallery/Amberlight/0/6e9df6fd8208c16eff386171cdd85966.JPG/) are run on x2 relays and connected to high beam so they all come with the blue light illuminated on the dash....... cannot forget they are on then.
For wiring tips go to www.lrtech.co.uk look for posts in defender section by mmgemini.
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I have roof lights mounted on my roll cage but use them for off road only. The problem with using them on the road is that they are above your line of vision and you could quite easily be dazzling somebody that you can't actually see yet. Also unless you wire them to your main beam it takes a few seconds longer to turn both your main beam and your rooflights off. :)
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I have roof lights mounted on my roll cage but use them for off road only. The problem with using them on the road is that they are above your line of vision and you could quite easily be dazzling somebody that you can't actually see yet. Also unless you wire them to your main beam it takes a few seconds longer to turn both your main beam and your rooflights off. :)
Good point on the dazzling.
My roof lights are angled for wide spread fairly close to the vehicle for best view of obstacles when manouvering at night.... The x2 large spots on my a-bar along with high beam on are for distance.
Its not nice to be dazzled, so its a good idea to set your lights up with consideration for others.
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Ive got 4 100w wipacs on the roofline. And i dont notice any glare. Other people do though. :)
I have mine on four seperate relays. They are switched three ways in the cab. I can have them on by thenselves, with the mainbeam or off.
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I have mine on four seperate relays. They are switched three ways in the cab. I can have them on by thenselves, with the mainbeam or off.
That's how I'd like the spots on the front of my 110, how do I go about wiring a switch in that way?
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These are the lamps - I think they are off an old Ford.
The need a little work to make them ready but I reckon they'd look good on top of the 110.
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they look like Fiesty XR2i lamps & id expect them to be a pain to make something up to fit as they mount round the outside rather than a pendant mount
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Could you explain that further please, I have no idea what either of those mean!
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In english (sorry mike), he means your gonna have trouble mounting them. Your gonna need a pendant fitting to secure them to a lightbar as you dont want to be drilling directly into the roof as it will weaken it and start to leak after a while.
Your bumper mounted spots will have a pendant fitting/bracket.
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In english (sorry mike), he means your gonna have trouble mounting them. Your gonna need a pendant fitting to secure them to a lightbar as you dont want to be drilling directly into the roof as it will weaken it and start to leak after a while.
Your bumper mounted spots will have a pendant fitting/bracket.
thank you,had a long day & brain is fryed
got work for a month though :D
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got work for a month though :D
:D :D Nice one Mike :D :D , I still think you should set up your own business.... even if it means becoming a mobile mechanic. Plenty of people in slroc/sorc would use your services.
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Yep i would ditto the above advice.
Getting The pendant style V
(http://members.mud-club.com/galleryimages/1d644610d286d7cc66eb1739f2dae701.jpg)
Would allow easier mounting to the light bar or in my case the roof rack i have. All they would do is bolt on.
I have 4 Ring Road Runner Spotlamps,
(http://members.mud-club.com/galleryimages/3e5f13b6b2905e0f66dda9c5141a99b6.jpg)
They are wired through twin relays acting on a single switch, and they come on with the main beam.
See this thread HERE (http://www.lrtech.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=104) and HERE (http://www.lrtech.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=103) for info on the wiring of the lamps, This webpage (http://users.mrbean.net.au/~rover/headlamps.htm) also has similar info on upgrading the wiring which then If you substitute the labels of the diagram of the headlights to spots you get the general idea about how to wire them in. After a quick trawl of google i found This site (http://www.barneymc.com/lite_wir/lite_wir.htm) Which seem to explain exactly what you want to do and how to wire them in properly and to prevent Cooking the wiring system.
HTH
Rowan
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ive got 4 ring road runners mounted on my roofrack in much the same way :)
dew if you wanna have a look at billing you're more than welcome
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Might just take you up on that offer James, plus I'll have my camera and all 3 memory cards in tow. I'll get some ideas I'm sure.